Fly fishing

Trumpetier

Member Extraordinaire
Joined
Jul 7, 2022
Messages
5,872
Reaction score
14,215
Location
Middlesbrough
I've been fishing for as long as can remember, but not bothered for a few years now, I'm now 57, so no my way around a fishing rod lol.

But, the form of fishing I've never done, is fly fishing. I really fancy giving it a go, mainly due to watching many episodes of Mortimer and Whitehouse 😁

Any advice on starter kit chaps and any other info for a fly fishing newbie ? :)
 
I would see if any of your local fisheries do a taster day or go out with an instructor for a half or full day .
It's the thing I never did and picked up bad habits, start as you mean to go on , you will enjoy the sport more also the instructor can give advice on tackle.
It all comes down to what type of fly fishing you fancy as well , river , lakes, etc
And trout , grayling, salmon ,pike ,carp, etc etc
Some companies have full starter kits , depending on budget, and have a look online .
Greys , orvis , also have a look at Glasgow angling , plenty good shops about.
 
Look at maxcatch site .have a couple of their rods and a few lines unbeatable value they also sell complete kits
 
I've been fishing for as long as can remember, but not bothered for a few years now, I'm now 57, so no my way around a fishing rod lol.
Me too, but I'm a little older and started fishing with a fly before sea and course.
My first advice, without knowing where you will be fishing would be don't buy a starter kit.
Buy a good rod, I don't mean top of the range, but maybe a really good second hand one. Also don't worry too much about the reel, all it does is hold the line, but buy a good line.
If you let us know where you are going to fish I'll pop in a few suggestions.
Fly fishing is a bit like shooting, addictive. :)
 
Hi Trumpetier. Snowbee do some decent quality starter kits that aren't silly prices but are good enough quality to last. The kits are a good action to learn to cast with and well worth a look. Depending on what type of fishing your going to try first, lake, reservoir, river..your requirement will be different. The snowbee range covers all types. If you need any advice on suitable outfits ie rod length and line weights etc to suit your chosen water, please feel free to ask, either on here or by PM.
Cheers
Chris.
 
Fly fishing is wonderful, but can seem mysterious, casting is always the biggest hurdle,some lessons would be a good idea, unless you have a friend who fishes,stacks of info on line,but poor casting can spoil your day,Good luck 🤞 mitch21
 
To build up confidence and experience I started on what we call 'stocky lakes' the put and take rainbow trout fisheries where you can concentrate on snag free casting and have a good chance of learning to catch a fish on the fly.

Once you build up confidence then you can hit the wild lakes and then the rivers.
 
Not been on here for ages, but there is a forum....
Like any hobby, maybe try before you buy, book a half day or a day at a fly fishing venue, you will get a bit of training and the general info you need.
Don't buy load of kit, to start you literally only need a rod, reel, line, and few flies, a bag, maybe a priest and thats it.
Once you've done it a bit you'll want, more rods/reels (longer/shorter and heavier/lighter) and both floating and sinking lines, and both wet and dry flies. Thats when the slippery slope starts!
No articulated Carp trolley needed here.... Lol!
TBH casting is not that hard, just a bit of practice and theres loads of YT vids, etc.
One word of warning, your arm will probably ache when you first try it, lots of casting, much more than normal fishing....
Most of all enjoy it. I really need to get back out there on the flies asap. Its a lovely way to spend a day....
 
I was very very fortunate to be taught by Charles Ritz yes of hotel fame,but he was a consultant to the company I started working at,a little tip he gave me if your starts getting tired, pop the end of the butt into your sleeve,also your mantra should be Hs/Hl which means High speed, High Line,eg. Pick the line up quickly and get some height to it,the more you read and see,the more apparent it will will become, Good luck 🤞 mitch21
 
Ultimately, it's river fishing that I fancy doing the most.
If you are going to do river fishing ld get a half day lesson on a river as a lot of casting on rivers unless theyre big wide rivers with open space at the back for casting with no trees ect.. it is quite a bit different to Reservoir casting.
As for the standard cast you could try as Mitch says with a bit of wool tied to the leader and find a marked out football pitch, stand at the side of a white marked out line with all the line head out and use it as an aim point to lay your line over on the back cast as well as forward cast, start slowly and get used to getting a straight line out, also you can put something under your armpit like a beer mat while your learning to cast and don't let it fall out and it will learn you not to use all your arm. Also avoid wrist break (trying to use the wrist to cast) a good way to stop this is stick the small bit of rod butt behind the reel up your sleeve.
 
I was very very fortunate to be taught by Charles Ritz yes of hotel fame,but he was a consultant to the company I started working at,a little tip he gave me if your starts getting tired, pop the end of the butt into your sleeve,also your mantra should be Hs/Hl which means High speed, High Line,eg. Pick the line up quickly and get some height to it,the more you read and see,the more apparent it will will become, Good luck 🤞 mitch21
Must've been typing at the same time 😂
 
If you are going to do river fishing ld get a half day lesson on a river as a lot of casting on rivers unless theyre big wide rivers with open space at the back for casting with no trees ect.. it is quite a bit different to Reservoir casting.
As for the standard cast you could try as Mitch says with a bit of wool tied to the leader and find a marked out football pitch, stand at the side of a white marked out line with all the line head out and use it as an aim point to lay your line over on the back cast as well as forward cast, start slowly and get used to getting a straight line out, also you can put something under your armpit like a beer mat while your learning to cast and don't let it fall out and it will learn you not to use all your arm. Also avoid wrist break (trying to use the wrist to cast) a good way to stop this is stick the small bit of rod butt behind the reel up your sleeve.
Great minds buddy, great minds 🤣🤣🤣
 
I’d agree with the above mate, try to get a day or half day with an instructor. If you pick up bad habits fly casting it will just frustrate you, I fish mainly the reservoirs and stocked lakes/ponds and you need different gear for that than to fish the rivers for trout and grayling. Longer rods and heavier lines as such. A nice 8’6” or 9’ rod would be ideal for most river fishing, 4 or 5 weight lines. An instructor would help you find the right kit for your needs too.
 
Last edited:
Rivers, when you get it right, are generally ‘easier’ to extract trout from, as you have a couple of things working in your favour.

1) Assuming there’s nothing actually rising and taking insects off the top, it’s not too difficult to work out where the fish will be in moving water, to target them with sub-surface patterns that imitate the ‘nymph’ stage of an aquatic insect.
Remember that most aquatic insects spend the best part of a year in this stage, only to emerge into a ‘fly’ to mate and lay for the last day of its life, so in rivers, sub surface is very much where the food is.
Trout like an easy life, and will sit in the spots that offer them the most amount of food while they expend the least amount of energy. They will sit behind rocks, in front of rocks, and in the slightly slower areas along side the currents that conveyer dislodged aquatic life along the river. You don’t have that luxury on a stillwater, there will be the odd cruising fish, but in general stillwater fish tend to home in on localised hatches and movements of midge larvae, and these can be anywhere, and depending on the stage of the hatch, at any depth.

2) Moving water : in a river where a trout is holding a position to intercept items of food that pass it by, they often don’t have time to closely scrutinise what they perceive to be a food item, and if it ticks enough ‘ looks like food ‘ boxes, it will take it, but very quickly eject it if it senses what it has taken is inedible. In a stillwater, this for the most doesn’t apply, as the fish have time to inspect your offerings, and you’ll often see them turn away at the very last moment. This can be down to the look of the fly itself, how it sits in the water, or partially with surface patterns, your line/leader.
Likewise, on a river, the water currents can very much work against you, especially with surface patterns. If your dry fly is not moving at exactly the same speed as other tiny flotsam moving along, they’ll not take it. To ensure your presentation is correct means being very careful how your main fly line and leader is sat in the water- fast currents acting further up your line can cause the fly in the end of the line to skit about in an un natural manner. The only exception to this rule is when fishing certain patterns at certain times - ie, when hatched flies such as sedges that behave erratically anyway are present on the water.

The one thing though, that is common across both rivers and stillwaters , relating to fish activity, is environmental conditions. Ideal conditions for most insects to make the transition from river bed to flight, is warm, dim, and breezy, and you’ll generally see most surface fish activity in these conditions.

Regarding tackle, rivers in particular, your choice of rod length and line weight is very much governed by the style of fishing you intend to do, and the size of river you intend to fish. I haven’t fished a river for 4-5 years now, but really only needed 2 rods. For medium to large reasonably pacy rivers, a 9’6”#4 is a good all rounder for dry/nymph/small streamer ( lures ).
For smaller rivers and brooks, I would use something around the 7’6” #4 range for the same techniques, but on smaller brooks it would mostly be quick evening sessions for dry fly.

Regarding tuition, if I were you I would try and get yourself into a position where a friendly fisherman that knows the ropes will take you out for the day, and you share a rod - you’ll just need waders. Guides and instructors are all very well, but your money will be better spent once you have the basics already covered, such as wading, reading the water, fly selection etc.
 
Back
Top