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Another new Pard…..

the box was off the splash when i reset it last night so will be interseting to see if it will read correctly now it has been changed.
the splash appears to be at least 2 mts wide on this one,would be great if it was only a few cm

is the pixelation that occurs past 65/70 mts par for the course,great clear image out to 40/50 mts then not so good.
adjusted the diopter and focus all directions,so where it is at the moment seems to be the best image i can get
 
The image you see is made up from the individual images produced by each sensor pixel
How large an area a single pixel "sees" at a given distance depends on the size of the pixel and the focal length of the objective lens
The DS35 sensor has pixels which are 2.9 microns square and the focal length of the objective lens is 70mm
If we divide the size of the pixel by the focal length of the objective lens we get what is known as the Individual Field Of View (IFOV)
This is an angle in milliradians (mrad) but if we multiply the IFOV by a distance in metres it gives is the size of a square that an individual pixel "sees" at that distance
The IFOV for the DS35 is 2.9/70 = 0.0414mrad
So, at a distance of (say) 25m, each pixels "sees" a square with sides 1.03mm long and an area of 1.06mm²
But at 70m, each pixel "sees" a square with sides 2.89mm long and an area of 8.35mm²
So, an object viewed at 25m will be seen with 8 times more detail than the same object at 70m
Assuming you have the ocular and objective lenses focussed correctly, then what you are seeing is the normal reduction in image detail with distance - and at the ranges you are speaking about it's not pixellation
Pixellation is when the individual sensor or display pixels can be seen when viewing the image.
It happens when high levels of digital zoom are used.

Cheers

Bruce
 
The last part of my PARD DS35-70RF video review is now being reviewed by YouTube, so I'll push it live ASAP.

This was a single 90minute waste tip ratting session, again thanks to Stuart of Vermin Control Scotland channel for his invite and assistance.
Obviously with it being pest control, viewer caution is recommended.

Fear not my channel is still a mix of hardware and optics reviews, as well as the pest control footage.

So I'm now back editing my review of the excellent AirMaks Arms Krait rifle, plus I'm currently reviewing the Pulsar Thermion2 LRF XQ50 Pro (thermal scope, kindly on loan from Blackwood Outdoors), plus hoping to receive a loaner HIKMICRO Stellar SH35 thermal scope soon from HIKMICRO for testing and review.
I've already used the XQ50 Pro on four short/local ratting sessions, so my review will eventually include that compilation video, together with my own observations regarding using a thermal scope for pest control, versus naturally higher-definition NV scopes.

I'll meet-up with Bruce (@mealiejimmie) ASAP to review the Stellar SH35, and perhaps do a side-by-side with the Pulsar, as they're similar specs (30mm tube, 384x288px, 17um sensors), although the Stellar doesn't have the LRF facility and is <35mK NETD sensitivity, compared to the Pulsar's <25mK NETD.

All the best, and Happy New Year / happy shooting!
Cheers. Russ
 
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fitting fully adjustable mounts,leaving the reticle adjustment at 0x 0y,
then zero with the adjustable mounts at your zero distance, rather than the one shot zero of the pard.
doing it this way seems to bring the lrf sausage splash closer to the center of the scope
have a try fordy1967. see if it works on your one.

might try gamming it a bit by over adjusting it so its closer to the mil4 dash in the x any y,
which will save having to move such a big distance off target

bruce, the lrf sausage splash on this one is 600mm at 30 mts,then more than 1.2mts at 60 mts.
even with the box centered,the over spill either side picks up fence posts,grass clumps,in the line of sight to the target.
can that be reduced or is it pard for the course again.
 
redwolf said:
fitting fully adjustable mounts,leaving the reticle adjustment at 0x 0y,
then zero with the adjustable mounts at your zero distance, rather than the one shot zero of the pard.
doing it this way seems to bring the lrf sausage splash closer to the center of the scope
have a try fordy1967. see if it works on your one.

might try gamming it a bit by over adjusting it so its closer to the mil4 dash in the x any y,
which will save having to move such a big distance off target

bruce, the lrf sausage splash on this one is 600mm at 30 mts,then more than 1.2mts at 60 mts.
even with the box centered,the over spill either side picks up fence posts,grass clumps,in the line of sight to the target.
can that be reduced or is it pard for the course again.
Click to expand...
Does make sense, but annoying that I'll have to buy adjustable mounts to achieve it, I'm leaning towards sending it back due to the cap being faulty and the splash being almost off the edge.....
 
fordy1967 said:
Does make sense, but annoying that I'll have to buy adjustable mounts to achieve it, I'm leaning towards sending it back due to the cap being faulty and the splash being almost off the edge.....
Click to expand...
what numbers are on your x and y reticle adjustment
 
fordy1967 said:
Does make sense, but annoying that I'll have to buy adjustable mounts to achieve it, I'm leaning towards sending it back due to the cap being faulty and the splash being almost off the edge.....
Click to expand...
Mate, what did you pay for this, eight and a half hundred quid??.
You’ve got bits falling off and the laser splash is almost off the screen?
There‘s no way id be spending that money and putting up with that.
 
Hi, I have received my DS35/70 this morning and I am doing the basic ballistic profile setup. when setting the bullet bc for an airgun pellet how can I “fast rotate“ the top knob to decrease from the default “Bullet BC” setting 0.465 down to 0.031 ? Otherwise it’ll take ages to rotate the knob to decrease the value?

it says in the manual page 17 “the knob has slow rotate (step 1) /fast rotate (step 2) but I don’t understand this? im sure im being thick lol!
ta
 
rbov said:
Hi, I have received my DS35/70 this morning and I am doing the basic ballistic profile setup. when setting the bullet bc for an airgun pellet how can I “fast rotate“ the top knob to decrease from the default “Bullet BC” setting 0.465 down to 0.031 ? Otherwise it’ll take ages to rotate the knob to decrease the value?

it says in the manual page 17 “the knob has slow rotate (step 1) /fast rotate (step 2) but I don’t understand this? im sure im being thick lol!
ta
Click to expand...
If you turn the dial fast the numbers go to a higher speed.
Good luck, Bob
 
redwolf said:
way down left seems to shove lrf diagonally the other way,fully adjustables would proberly help,
i think you need +numbers to bring the lrf into view.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but don't want to spend money fixing a faulty scope, think I'll send it back and look at other options.
 
Hi..........have been trying the DS 35 now for two weeks and cannot see any real benefit over my existing 008S LRF. The latter gives a more realistic colour balance and to my eyes gives slightly more detail at the lower mag. setting. There is nothing wrong basically with the 35, but as mine is on loan it will be going back, and will await the 50mm version.
 
Pelletpinger said:
Mate, what did you pay for this, eight and a half hundred quid??.
You’ve got bits falling off and the laser splash is almost off the screen?
There‘s no way id be spending that money and putting up with that.
Click to expand...
Aaaah Pelletpinger - the man who swears that if it's not a Pulsar C50 then it's crap :ROFLMAO:

Cheers

Bruce
 
I must confess something I hadn't considered until this last page of comments, is of course that the LRF's IR splash is fixed, whereas the scope's very generous (max) 20MOA vertical and 100MOA horizontal -zero-shift adjustment obviously 'moves' the display.

So for any significant windage and elevation adjustment the LRF splash will obviously (at least) move towards the(an) edge of the display. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the DS35, just that too much is being asked of it (with its large adjustment range).

One issue a fair few folk have experienced with all digital scopes is misalignment, requiring adjustable mounts.
Essentially glass dayscopes with erector tube adjustment are very forgiving of rail/action/barrel misalignments, so shooters assume the scope's bust/useless because it's not readily aligned with the rifle's POI, when it can actually be all manner of physical misalignment issues within the rifle itself.

So yes, adjustable mounts are one way to get the LRF splash where you want it, aside from obviously using them to align the centralised crosshairs with the POI.

If you stick to fixed mounts and post-zero the LRF splash is off-screen when zoomed-in, hopefully it'll be on-screen when zoomed-out.
Then it's not the end of the world to range targets, before zooming to engage them.
Cheers. Russ
 
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