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2240Ti

SpookyESU

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Well another one of those “great idea at the time” things.
Decided to turn my newly acquired 2240 (picked it up today) into a pcp.
Easy enough, until I noticed a big pile of Titanium off cuts we had.

I know…i’ll make every part I can replace in titanium just for fun….what could go wrong…

I hate mondays,i’ll get some pictures up in a bit 😬😬😬
 
Very nice, so what's titanium like to turn ?
With the right tooling not too bad, similar in a lot of ways to Stainless like 410 or 416. It's not "thermally efficient" so the tooling tends to heat up rather than the tool & workpiece. You have to "Hit it" though, like some stainless, it work hardens so small components can warp easily and cause problems if you only take light cuts. Needs decent HP to be fair, I'm using a 27hp CNC for it so not too bad, smaller or less rigid machines and it can turn into all sorts of horrible.
I'm using Grade 3 for stupid levels of strength(mostly because I have a load of it to hand) but to be honest Grade 1 would be ok for airgun related parts. (max working pressure 5,561psi (Burst pressure 22,244 psi)) so the o-rings will let go before the cylinder does.

Cylinders tomorrow so I'll take some pics of them as well.
 
Very nice, so what's titanium like to turn ?
Question not directed to me but here's my 2 p any way ,
Ti is strong , not necessarily hard I did a few bits n bobs during lock down and not very much since
The work hardening comment is very valid

Not too bad to turn . Hss will work and there's lots of dedicated Ti inserts.
Drilling and tapping needs care because, as mentioned the material doesn't conduct the heat away so good .
drills need to be sharp and put in straight to keep friction and heat down . Lots of patience .
Some good vids on you tube . General advice is lower speed but as continuous feed as you dare till you have to end the peck and let things cool . Its the heat and galling that will kill you


a bit extra clearance on tapping drill size can help too . once it's grabbed you're in trouble especially on small sizes .

plenty of fluid

It's ok when you get the hang but have a few spare drills and taps on hand

most of the parts i fiddled with were grade 5 .

Sorry for the hijack Mr @SpookyESU . Couldn't help myself .

Nice work by the way
 
Sorry for the hijack Mr @SpookyESU . Couldn't help myself .

Nice work by the way
Thanks and no problem, feel free to jump in anytime 🫡
I was going to go with 316 S32 stainless as it’s actually stronger (for pressure bearing) but the thing would end up weighing a tonne 🤣🤣

I’ll probably grab another 22 series when time allows and do that one in stainless.

Decided on Ti in the end due to weight (and having a big volume of spare metal that’s already paid for) or the cost would have been prohibitive.

Might do some aluminium stuff as well for fun as we have anodising gear here I can use.

As an aside, you can anodise Ti to all sorts of wonderful colours just by varying the voltage (purple looks nice) and the solution can be flat coca cola 🤣🤣

If you want to add in info feel free brother 🫡
 
Today was a bit of a slow day but thankfully I now have another 2240 to work on (Thanks to Chris in the sales section) and make bits for. Stainless this time I think, it's gonna weigh a tonne though :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Once all parts are proved and safe I'll upload all the drawings for anybody else to use freely for any lawful purpose (make em, sell them, whatever ,I don't mind) I'll chuck up the programs in G-Code and Prototrak format as well for anybody that has access to these machines.

The cylinder tube reducer is the next bit so I can use a 32.5mm diameter cylinder but with a reduced diameter at the rear so I can still have the std 7/8th (22.22mm) diameter body tube and striker etc.

Not sure whether to go for a concave radius or a simple taper (where it says R5 on the drawing) The 32.5mm diam section will be for the Pressure Gauge, Burst disk and Fill adaptor (all fitted on spot face flats)

Weekend should be good and hopefully get a lot more done.

BodyTube.webp
 
Had a few questions about cylinders and why I won't make them for anybody..

Max working pressure for Schedule 80 316 seamless stainless steel tube is 6,110 PSI. Way more than we need but hey, I don't like the idea of having a bomb next to my face.

Some of that is going to be lost in machining but we will still need a good chunk of metal around all that air. So machined as below.
Cylinder Explanation.webp
The seal (O-Ring) MUST be at the furthest forward point where the wall thickness remains at 2.72mm. I've seen gun cylinders made where the O-ring has been at the farthest left side (30.5mm) where the wall thickness affected by pressure is 1.00 mm. EVERYTHING to the Right of the O-Ring is inside a closed loop of pressure so if you fill to 3000 psi all that is holding it is 1.00 mm of metal. In stainless that may well hold, it may not. In Aluminium it's almost certainly going to fail at some point and that's going to be a fast leak or a straight up bang.

ALWAYS calculate the pressure at the thinnest point that holds pressure. One that is often forgotten on manual machines is the thread undercut, on an M30 Thread that undercut is going to be circa 30.5mm diameter, so again, we are back to 1mm of metal keeping our faces intact. (Fortunately for me I have CNC equipment so threads have no undercut)

Another item that needs attention is a burst disc, the little hex plug that has a copper disc in it to prevent a system being over pressurised. If my working pressure is 3,000 psi then my burst disk is going to be 3,250 psi or 3,500 psi, Yes we have gauges etc but I prefer to be safe rather than trusting a simple gauge alone.

Another thing to keep in mind, sharp corners, pressure loves sharp corners, try to ensure that any internal corners such as O-Ring grooves are radiused rather than hard 90 degree angles. If you leave sharp corners you create shear points that cracks and splits will propagate from especially on things that are subjected to big pressure changes (creep), it may be fine to begin with but six months down the road? yep, we will be picking up bone splinters again.
Ring Groove.webp
The above shows a very simple 0.5mm corner radius inside the plug groove.

On the cylinder end, when you machine the top relief (30.5mm) the thread (M30) and the sealing surface (27.06mm) make sure you do all three at the same time to ensure concentricity, there is very little clearance between the plug diameter and the sealing surface diameter, if you end up with low concentricity you can have the O-Ring trying to "extrude" itself out through the widest point. That's unlikely to result in explosion but it will lead to leaks.
Use a good O-Ring calculator from the manufacturers and that will give you all the sizes you need to work to.

Surface finishes should all be good (circa 1.6 Ra) to reduce ring damage and ensure a solid seating and best possible seal.

Testing:
For steel cylinders we have Ultrasonic and Hydrostatic testing, both have their place by hydrostatic is destructive, you can damage the cylinder in the test so that's more for batch testing with samples. Ultrasonic is better but difficult for the average builder unless you have a nice boss who is tolerant of your requests :).
If I'm building a new cylinder for my own guns I'll use stainless tube and make 2 more than I need, that way I can abuse those two and try to get them to fail while being fairly certain that the used one's will conform to the same level of safety. If you are working on somebody elses gun, that's a bit different. They aren't going to take kindly to us blowing up their cylinder so we can tell them "Hey yea, it was fine mate until it exploded at 22,000 psi".

Will I work on other peoples cylinders? nope, not a chance.. I have no idea how they have been treated, what they are made of or what quality control the manufacturer had. and what material was used and did that material come with a certificate.

Aluminium cylinders.. no... just no, some gun manufacturer's work close to the yield pressures of cylinders to keep weight and cost down in a material that from the start is less resistant to pressure. We are dealing with pressures that can straight up just kill you let alone blow off limbs or other body parts.

My typical answer to the "Hey, I thought you were a friend yet you won't do this for me?"

It's because I'm a friend that I won't...

Onto more machining before I get too carried away

cheers

Spooky / Dave
 
Yay, we now have a 360mm long Titanium Cylinder and End caps, all tested to 12,500psi and no leaks.

cyl001.webpcyl002.webpcyl003.webp
Just bought a "2250 Ratter" so will get a load of dimensions of the new models (with the chinesium tube) and chuck up a 3d model in case anybody else is thinking of doing similar.

Cheers
Spooky / Dave
 
More updates to add over the weekend, sorry for lack of follow ups but it's been insane at work. Cutting threads into some weird arse alien poo like steel that had the machining properties of remanufactured play-doh mixed with Inconel and rusty digger bucket teeth. M30 threads 450mm long on a 900mm shaft that the client tells me costs over £1,000 a meter (so I better not screw it up).
 
Asked about std dimensions of the 2240 tubes (old and new) so here we go. A series of PDF files of all the std sizes as I run them through the CMM.
 

Attachments

I was working on a Weirauch stainless air cylinder a chap brought in today and was surprised just how thin the walls were. So decided to break one of my own rules and build an alloy cylinder just for **its and giggles to see if I can make it fail. 41.3mm OD / 31.1mm bore 7076T6 alloy. It's not going to be *used, just made and tested till it breaks.

I'm starting with the full tube wall thickness and slowly reducing it until it fails a hydrostatic test to see just how much leaway alloy cylinders have. 5mm wall thickness sounds good on paper but I'm not holding out a lot of hope of this not going pop very quickly. I'm lucky that I have access t CNC equipment so don't need to worry about thread undercuts and have zero lead-out threads in the ends.

Some dimensions for those interested (PDF attached)(although I'm not in any way suggesting folks try this).

Not forgotten the 2240Ti, just want to make a few changes like a totally Ti valve instead of the brass jobby used in the original.
 

Attachments

Thus far this week I haven't managed to blow myself up (err I'm using hydraulic solution not air though), aluminium alloy (7075 T6) cylinders..
41mm OD,31mm bore seamless tube. single and double ring seal types made to ISO3601-1, AS-122 spec (28.62mm ID rings with a 2.62mm cross section)
All threads zero lead out undercut (CNC threads)

Pass at 4,200 PSI (289.57 Bar)
Non Critical Fail at 5,110 PSI (352.32 Bar)
Catastrophic Fail 8,081 PSI (557.16 Bar)

This is with a 5mm wall thickness....

Lot more to do on the various 2240's building over the weekend (now I actually have some time off)
 

Attachments

  • 41mm Alloy Plugs.webp
    41mm Alloy Plugs.webp
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Well that got complicated (My day job got in the way of enjoyment)
Added a simple screw in adaptor to fit the Ti cylinder that attaches direct to the crosman valve. Unscrew the valve head, screw on new extension and screw directly into cylinder. (or maybe an easy way to add a drop block without compromising integrity of the pressure bearing surfaces)
Built a new regulator that controls air volume and pressure but that still needs some tweaking.

Getting there slowly (so long as work stays out of the way)

ValveExtension.webp
 
Very nice. Can’t wait to see the finish result. I’ve always wanted to build my own PCP but building a cylinder/airtube from scratch scares the crap out of me as I’ve seen what happens with high pressure air.

Wall thickness can be stupidly thin with Titanium. I’ve got a very large Titanium tube from America (can’t remember if it was a Chip Smith or Gordon Dawson) that fits a Rapid Block. It’s really thin wall and very thin where the threads are but there are lots of them so it’s pretty strong. There were some burst tests done on the cylinders and it was insanely high (around 900bar I think).

My experiences of machining Titanium (grade 5) is it machines very nicely but a pain to drill and tap. The heat is lost in the chips so constant pressure is key to keep it from work hardening. Coolant is a necessity for drilling otherwise it’ll warm up and grab causing it to blunt or snap the drill.

For turning I’ve used Aluminium grade tips if a very fine surface finish is required on a finish pass. Otherwise it’s coated carbide all the way. For drilling cobalt or carbide drills are the best option, regular HSS is too soft and dulls very quickly.

We have an Aerospace job at work that we drill and tap Inconel 625 and it’s easy until the drill wears and then it melts down very quickly, you usually hear that from across the workshop 😆
 
Inconel is a horror story, much like any of the Nimonic family.
I’m lucky as I have access to hydrostatic and ultrasonic test gear otherwise I wouldn’t be making cylinders of any kind.

I’m planning out a way to make the BSA Ultra/Scorpion mags fir in the Ti, my biggest enemy is time, currently I’m working 70+ hours a week (we are short staffed) so although bits are getting done I’ve yet to find time to post many updates 😬
I’m a Nuclear Engineer so I tend to be far more pedantic about fit and function than I need to be , I think thus far I’ve done 20+ modifications to just the air cylinder design 🤣🤣🤣
 
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