2240Ti

SpookyESU

Active member
Joined
Mar 11, 2026
Messages
217
Reaction score
434
Location
Wales
Well another one of those “great idea at the time” things.
Decided to turn my newly acquired 2240 (picked it up today) into a pcp.
Easy enough, until I noticed a big pile of Titanium off cuts we had.

I know…i’ll make every part I can replace in titanium just for fun….what could go wrong…

I hate mondays,i’ll get some pictures up in a bit 😬😬😬
 
IMG_1722.webp


End plugs for the new cylinder, just need a clean up.
Safe Working pressure will be well above anything I have access to 🤣🤣🤣
 
Very nice, so what's titanium like to turn ?
With the right tooling not too bad, similar in a lot of ways to Stainless like 410 or 416. It's not "thermally efficient" so the tooling tends to heat up rather than the tool & workpiece. You have to "Hit it" though, like some stainless, it work hardens so small components can warp easily and cause problems if you only take light cuts. Needs decent HP to be fair, I'm using a 27hp CNC for it so not too bad, smaller or less rigid machines and it can turn into all sorts of horrible.
I'm using Grade 3 for stupid levels of strength(mostly because I have a load of it to hand) but to be honest Grade 1 would be ok for airgun related parts. (max working pressure 5,561psi (Burst pressure 22,244 psi)) so the o-rings will let go before the cylinder does.

Cylinders tomorrow so I'll take some pics of them as well.
 
Very nice, so what's titanium like to turn ?
Question not directed to me but here's my 2 p any way ,
Ti is strong , not necessarily hard I did a few bits n bobs during lock down and not very much since
The work hardening comment is very valid

Not too bad to turn . Hss will work and there's lots of dedicated Ti inserts.
Drilling and tapping needs care because, as mentioned the material doesn't conduct the heat away so good .
drills need to be sharp and put in straight to keep friction and heat down . Lots of patience .
Some good vids on you tube . General advice is lower speed but as continuous feed as you dare till you have to end the peck and let things cool . Its the heat and galling that will kill you


a bit extra clearance on tapping drill size can help too . once it's grabbed you're in trouble especially on small sizes .

plenty of fluid

It's ok when you get the hang but have a few spare drills and taps on hand

most of the parts i fiddled with were grade 5 .

Sorry for the hijack Mr @SpookyESU . Couldn't help myself .

Nice work by the way
 
Sorry for the hijack Mr @SpookyESU . Couldn't help myself .

Nice work by the way
Thanks and no problem, feel free to jump in anytime 🫡
I was going to go with 316 S32 stainless as it’s actually stronger (for pressure bearing) but the thing would end up weighing a tonne 🤣🤣

I’ll probably grab another 22 series when time allows and do that one in stainless.

Decided on Ti in the end due to weight (and having a big volume of spare metal that’s already paid for) or the cost would have been prohibitive.

Might do some aluminium stuff as well for fun as we have anodising gear here I can use.

As an aside, you can anodise Ti to all sorts of wonderful colours just by varying the voltage (purple looks nice) and the solution can be flat coca cola 🤣🤣

If you want to add in info feel free brother 🫡
 
Today was a bit of a slow day but thankfully I now have another 2240 to work on (Thanks to Chris in the sales section) and make bits for. Stainless this time I think, it's gonna weigh a tonne though :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Once all parts are proved and safe I'll upload all the drawings for anybody else to use freely for any lawful purpose (make em, sell them, whatever ,I don't mind) I'll chuck up the programs in G-Code and Prototrak format as well for anybody that has access to these machines.

The cylinder tube reducer is the next bit so I can use a 32.5mm diameter cylinder but with a reduced diameter at the rear so I can still have the std 7/8th (22.22mm) diameter body tube and striker etc.

Not sure whether to go for a concave radius or a simple taper (where it says R5 on the drawing) The 32.5mm diam section will be for the Pressure Gauge, Burst disk and Fill adaptor (all fitted on spot face flats)

Weekend should be good and hopefully get a lot more done.

BodyTube.webp
 
Had a few questions about cylinders and why I won't make them for anybody..

Max working pressure for Schedule 80 316 seamless stainless steel tube is 6,110 PSI. Way more than we need but hey, I don't like the idea of having a bomb next to my face.

Some of that is going to be lost in machining but we will still need a good chunk of metal around all that air. So machined as below.
Cylinder Explanation.webp

The seal (O-Ring) MUST be at the furthest forward point where the wall thickness remains at 2.72mm. I've seen gun cylinders made where the O-ring has been at the farthest left side (30.5mm) where the wall thickness affected by pressure is 1.00 mm. EVERYTHING to the Right of the O-Ring is inside a closed loop of pressure so if you fill to 3000 psi all that is holding it is 1.00 mm of metal. In stainless that may well hold, it may not. In Aluminium it's almost certainly going to fail at some point and that's going to be a fast leak or a straight up bang.

ALWAYS calculate the pressure at the thinnest point that holds pressure. One that is often forgotten on manual machines is the thread undercut, on an M30 Thread that undercut is going to be circa 30.5mm diameter, so again, we are back to 1mm of metal keeping our faces intact. (Fortunately for me I have CNC equipment so threads have no undercut)

Another item that needs attention is a burst disc, the little hex plug that has a copper disc in it to prevent a system being over pressurised. If my working pressure is 3,000 psi then my burst disk is going to be 3,250 psi or 3,500 psi, Yes we have gauges etc but I prefer to be safe rather than trusting a simple gauge alone.

Another thing to keep in mind, sharp corners, pressure loves sharp corners, try to ensure that any internal corners such as O-Ring grooves are radiused rather than hard 90 degree angles. If you leave sharp corners you create shear points that cracks and splits will propagate from especially on things that are subjected to big pressure changes (creep), it may be fine to begin with but six months down the road? yep, we will be picking up bone splinters again.
Ring Groove.webp

The above shows a very simple 0.5mm corner radius inside the plug groove.

On the cylinder end, when you machine the top relief (30.5mm) the thread (M30) and the sealing surface (27.06mm) make sure you do all three at the same time to ensure concentricity, there is very little clearance between the plug diameter and the sealing surface diameter, if you end up with low concentricity you can have the O-Ring trying to "extrude" itself out through the widest point. That's unlikely to result in explosion but it will lead to leaks.
Use a good O-Ring calculator from the manufacturers and that will give you all the sizes you need to work to.

Surface finishes should all be good (circa 1.6 Ra) to reduce ring damage and ensure a solid seating and best possible seal.

Testing:
For steel cylinders we have Ultrasonic and Hydrostatic testing, both have their place by hydrostatic is destructive, you can damage the cylinder in the test so that's more for batch testing with samples. Ultrasonic is better but difficult for the average builder unless you have a nice boss who is tolerant of your requests :).
If I'm building a new cylinder for my own guns I'll use stainless tube and make 2 more than I need, that way I can abuse those two and try to get them to fail while being fairly certain that the used one's will conform to the same level of safety. If you are working on somebody elses gun, that's a bit different. They aren't going to take kindly to us blowing up their cylinder so we can tell them "Hey yea, it was fine mate until it exploded at 22,000 psi".

Will I work on other peoples cylinders? nope, not a chance.. I have no idea how they have been treated, what they are made of or what quality control the manufacturer had. and what material was used and did that material come with a certificate.

Aluminium cylinders.. no... just no, some gun manufacturer's work close to the yield pressures of cylinders to keep weight and cost down in a material that from the start is less resistant to pressure. We are dealing with pressures that can straight up just kill you let alone blow off limbs or other body parts.

My typical answer to the "Hey, I thought you were a friend yet you won't do this for me?"

It's because I'm a friend that I won't...

Onto more machining before I get too carried away

cheers

Spooky / Dave
 
Back
Top