Well took the plunge after selling my InfiRay TD50L and plenty of research still don,t know if it was right decision i bought a brand new Pard 007s bit smaller than the Pard 007v and a few more extras on it but main thing for me is how light it is and compact fitted it to my Katran and fits nice size wise picture is very clearer and user friendly i fitted it onto a Optisan 3-12-x32 seems ok still getting to know the Pard so got to run through a few more setting yet because i bought it mainly for ratting and feral pigeons i am struggling to get a setting for really close up shots if any one has one of these and can point me in the right direction i would be thankful up to now it seems to be very good and i like the fact that there is no digital zeroing all done through the scope i think that is a bonus so i can shoot with the scope i am used to in the daytime and then clip on the Pard when it is going dark win win situation
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the Daily hi thread
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Please DO NOT discuss the use of optics/NV for HUNTING in this section. Any hunting related Optics questions should go in the hunting section.
New Pard 007S
- Thread starter gunnery
- Start date
Pics of it on the Katran please 
Well done mate, I'm sure you won't regret it. Ideally, you want the scope to parallax down to 9-10 yards, I find if the rat is a bit blurred I aim high and get them every time, you get used to knowing how high by how blurred it is, but this is not a frequent thing.
I have even walked back a few meters around the pig units to get them in focus, when it's dark the rats don't really know what's going on and don't seem to mind me getting comfy before I shoot them 
I fold the eyecups back on mine so I get my eye a little bit closer to the Pard
Yes i think that is the right answer spent enoughI have even walked back a few meters around the pig units to get them in focus, when it's dark the rats don't really know what's going on and don't seem to mind me getting comfy before I shoot them
FarmerM
Active member
Is it the 16mm or 12mm?
If I remember rightly the 16mm pard has a level of zoom inbuilt so close shots might be a struggle
If I remember rightly the 16mm pard has a level of zoom inbuilt so close shots might be a struggle
FarmerM
Active member
Right okay didn't know that. In that case maybe look at getting the lowest mag scope possible
From a cursory google it looks like the S has a minimum magnification of 4x compared to the 12mm older models which are 1x mag
From a cursory google it looks like the S has a minimum magnification of 4x compared to the 12mm older models which are 1x mag
seems to be harder said than done Hawke 2-7-x 32 no side focus so that then becomes another problem
cracking tip that just done it hell off a difference
FarmerM
Active member
This might be handy. Certainly was for me.
Copied from an old thread. Posted by MealieJimmie.
"You don't adjust the eyepiece focus to get the reticle in focus
The correct procedure is to adjust the eyepiece focus to get the menu text in focus - this basically adjusts the eyepiece focus so the display is in focus - and the best way to do that is to bring up the menu and adjust the eyepiece focus until the menu text is as sharp as you can get it for your eye. Once this is done it should not be necessary to touch the eyepiece focus again unless someone else uses the PARD
The next step is to adjust the PARD main lens focus (the barrel shaped thing on the underside of the PARD) until you see the reticle in focus when you look through the PARD
With this step you are only trying to get the scope reticle in focus - don't worry about the target - that comes next
Finally, adjust the scope focus (AO or side focus) to get the target in focus
Once the eyepiece focus and lens focus have been adjusted, the only adjustment you should need to make when out shooting is the scope focus which will need to be adjusted as the range to the target changes
Note that there will be a big change in scope focus settings between daylight use and NV use using IR
Next thing: the PARD has digital zoom - DON'T USE IT - it's not needed and will only make the image more grainy
You scope has variable optical magnification so use that to make the target larger
A simple rule: Optical zoom - GOOD, digital zoom - BAD
Only use digital zoom when there is no optical zoom available (like on an 008)
Try some of the above and see how you get on"
Copied from an old thread. Posted by MealieJimmie.
"You don't adjust the eyepiece focus to get the reticle in focus
The correct procedure is to adjust the eyepiece focus to get the menu text in focus - this basically adjusts the eyepiece focus so the display is in focus - and the best way to do that is to bring up the menu and adjust the eyepiece focus until the menu text is as sharp as you can get it for your eye. Once this is done it should not be necessary to touch the eyepiece focus again unless someone else uses the PARD
The next step is to adjust the PARD main lens focus (the barrel shaped thing on the underside of the PARD) until you see the reticle in focus when you look through the PARD
With this step you are only trying to get the scope reticle in focus - don't worry about the target - that comes next
Finally, adjust the scope focus (AO or side focus) to get the target in focus
Once the eyepiece focus and lens focus have been adjusted, the only adjustment you should need to make when out shooting is the scope focus which will need to be adjusted as the range to the target changes
Note that there will be a big change in scope focus settings between daylight use and NV use using IR
Next thing: the PARD has digital zoom - DON'T USE IT - it's not needed and will only make the image more grainy
You scope has variable optical magnification so use that to make the target larger
A simple rule: Optical zoom - GOOD, digital zoom - BAD
Only use digital zoom when there is no optical zoom available (like on an 008)
Try some of the above and see how you get on"
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