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Mkll Airsporter

Back in the days when me and my buddy did Blueing this is basically the way we did it, he was a master at this process he could make a rusty old barrel l look like a 100-year-old barrel that had been loved and cared for, I could make them look like new but what he did I could never get right



 
I'm probably going to throw a thread up myself and point some questions towards you since you're refurbishing a Mk 1 Airsporter and defintely need some advice.

Bluing is one thing im not keen on trying but i had a thought. What if you got a piece of upvc pipe with a cap on one end a bit longer than the overall length of the tube /barrel. Plug the barrel on both ends??? not sure if bluing will negatively effect the bore?. Then stick it in the oven and warm the tube/barrel then submerge it in the tube of bluing solution.

Some people say bluing comes out better on warm/hot metal? Dunno if true. However in theory it should mean you avoid any streaks or patchiness since it was all essentially quenched in bluing solution at the same time Shrug tt

Edit: I imagine it would be very pricey though for the amount of bluing solution needed
I have had another go on small parts with ballistol cold blue and the results are poor as usual, there is no way I will attempt to do the complete action so it will either get professionally blacked which I am holding out for or failing that painted

Cold blue does work better on warmed parts in my experience but getting small parts hot and dropping them in oil does a better job imo, bluing does not affect the bore
 
A quite literally small update, pictured are the component parts of a mkl adjustable rear sight that I have been fighting with for 2 weeks ๐Ÿ‘€

It was rusted solid then painted over, I scraped the paint off as much as I could then dumped in evaporust for a week
Next up was another week in a release oil bath and still no joy no movement and much frustration

Hmm drastic measures required pliers blowlamp and brute ignorance finally got it apart without damage tonight, to say I am pleased would be an understatement ๐Ÿ˜€
 

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A quite literally small update, pictured are the component parts of a mkl adjustable rear sight that I have been fighting with for 2 weeks ๐Ÿ‘€

It was rusted solid then painted over, I scraped the paint off as much as I could then dumped in evaporust for a week
Next up was another week in a release oil bath and still no joy no movement and much frustration

Hmm drastic measures required pliers blowlamp and brute ignorance finally got it apart without damage tonight, to say I am pleased would be an understatement ๐Ÿ˜€
Right on. Slim.๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜Š
 
A quite literally small update, pictured are the component parts of a mkl adjustable rear sight that I have been fighting with for 2 weeks ๐Ÿ‘€

It was rusted solid then painted over, I scraped the paint off as much as I could then dumped in evaporust for a week
Next up was another week in a release oil bath and still no joy no movement and much frustration

Hmm drastic measures required pliers blowlamp and brute ignorance finally got it apart without damage tonight, to say I am pleased would be an understatement ๐Ÿ˜€

Well done. So satisyfing when persistence pays off ๐Ÿ‘
 
Well things haven't gone to plan really I emailed 4 companies offering blacking or bluing services as I think this mkl is worth the expense, only one could be bothered to answer and they are not interested ๐Ÿคท

The nearest (very well known) company didn't answer either of 2 emails and don't answer the phone either ๐Ÿ˜’ how they stay in business I will never know ๐Ÿคท

The upshot is the whole lot of them can kiss my skinny ass, I wouldn't trust any of them now considering the above complete lack of simple manners even if they don't want the job an answer would have taken 2 mins max
 
Tried someone like liquid steel designs? I see on facebook they do cerokote, they may do blacking too
 
Attached are the quick pics I took earlier ๐Ÿ˜ฑ
 

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The spring is square wire and looks a bit warped to me.
The seal looks ok, does it need to have a soaking in oil?
There is a washer in the top of the piston, it moves but wonโ€™t come out, you can see marks on it from the spring
Is it worth taking the trigger apart, it seems very willing to do so as the trigger pin just fell out?
If I strip out the trigger, I might as well refinish the trigger housing. What should I use to refinish it?
I am inclined to get a Welsh Willy kit for this - I think he is the only one that does a kit!
 
The spring is square wire and looks a bit warped to me.
The seal looks ok, does it need to have a soaking in oil?
There is a washer in the top of the piston, it moves but wonโ€™t come out, you can see marks on it from the spring
Is it worth taking the trigger apart, it seems very willing to do so as the trigger pin just fell out?
If I strip out the trigger, I might as well refinish the trigger housing. What should I use to refinish it?
I am inclined to get a Welsh Willy kit for this - I think he is the only one that does a kit!
Ox Spring - ditch it and replace with normal mainspring. Seal looks fine & just needs neatsfoot nourishment. Trigger assembly can be tricky but they are robust .thereโ€™s a range of tough spray paints satin or gloss that are suitable - depending on your taste of course!
Keeping it original with the cone shaped piston head & leather seal would be my choice - but Iโ€™m a biased old git who has a few old Airsporters in the racks so donโ€™t take any notice of me !
 
Ox Spring - ditch it and replace with normal mainspring. Seal looks fine & just needs neatsfoot nourishment. Trigger assembly can be tricky but they are robust .thereโ€™s a range of tough spray paints satin or gloss that are suitable - depending on your taste of course!
Keeping it original with the cone shaped piston head & leather seal would be my choice - but Iโ€™m a biased old git who has a few old Airsporters in the racks so donโ€™t take any notice of me !
I understand that the ox spring was put in to maximise power, but just made it harder to cock and unpleasant to shoot but with no extra oomph.
Need to buy some neatsfoot oil. Is it ok to just dunk the top of the piston in the oil for an hour or so?
 
Quick update, The Welsh Willy kit has arrived today and I can immediately feel that the spring moves more freely inside the piston, the Ox spring was grabby without any pressure! I have fed the piston seal with some neatsfoot. The end of the piston rod was a little chewed up so I have given it a very mild fettle (I think it is a bit better). Whilst it was apart, I cleaned the barrel, it was pretty dirty!!

When I put the piston back in the action it feels very notchy as it goes in, then eventually moves quite freely. Is there anything I should be doing in this area?

My problem now is putting it back together, it all made sense when I stripped it 6 weeks ago, but a brain injury I suffered a few years ago means I now have no idea what I did 6 weeks ago!
 
Quick update, The Welsh Willy kit has arrived today and I can immediately feel that the spring moves more freely inside the piston, the Ox spring was grabby without any pressure! I have fed the piston seal with some neatsfoot. The end of the piston rod was a little chewed up so I have given it a very mild fettle (I think it is a bit better). Whilst it was apart, I cleaned the barrel, it was pretty dirty!!

When I put the piston back in the action it feels very notchy as it goes in, then eventually moves quite freely. Is there anything I should be doing in this area?

My problem now is putting it back together, it all made sense when I stripped it 6 weeks ago, but a brain injury I suffered a few years ago means I now have no idea what I did 6 weeks ago!
This is an old thread from a member who is now banned by the looks of it.
Personally I'd start your own thread and go from there.

What part of putting it back together are you struggling with?
Did you take any pictures before you dismantled it that you can go back to?
 
Quick update, The Welsh Willy kit has arrived today and I can immediately feel that the spring moves more freely inside the piston, the Ox spring was grabby without any pressure! I have fed the piston seal with some neatsfoot. The end of the piston rod was a little chewed up so I have given it a very mild fettle (I think it is a bit better). Whilst it was apart, I cleaned the barrel, it was pretty dirty!!

When I put the piston back in the action it feels very notchy as it goes in, then eventually moves quite freely. Is there anything I should be doing in this area?

My problem now is putting it back together, it all made sense when I stripped it 6 weeks ago, but a brain injury I suffered a few years ago means I now have no idea what I did 6 weeks ago!

Ive encoutered the notchy/tight fitting pistons in old BSA cylinders. A mk1 meteor currently but the mk2 airsporter was the same. Exactly as you say once forward into the compression chamber they move freely at correct fit.

I am thinking this is probably a very slight narrowing of the cylinder from the manufacturing process around cocking slot, trigger cage/end threads etc. Not sure there's anything to do to remedy this. I just gently help the lightly oiled leather seal edge under cut outs/tight sections with a flat head screwdriver.

I have a thread on the mk2 airsporter strip/build i will link ๐Ÿ‘
 
 
I have just put the loading port back together! The bb looks a bit exposed! Have I put it back the right way round?
 

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Hmmm i had to swap the tap around a few times to get it right. Ive looked over my thread and i didnt make it clear in images ๐Ÿ™„

I think you've got it right in your pic but you will know as it wont cock and latch properly if the wrong way round ๐Ÿ‘
 
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