Mkll Airsporter

[Martin Bacon]

A bit of a clean up on the tube and barrel, by no means perfect but much better than when I started

Thinking I might have a final attempt at cold blue on this tried Birchwood Casey and Abbey before and distinctly unimpressed with both. Any recommendations guys?

Still think I am going to end up with a mess as usual

It’s really hard to get anywhere near professional hot treatment blueing, but it’s about expectations I guess.
As I’ve mentioned before on other threads - sooo much depends on the preparation!! The metal surface being sanded down to a smooth mirror like finish, the degreasing needs to be meticulous…then I warm the metal gently before applying the blueing product (repeated usually)
I quite like Ballistol:

 

[slim63]

It’s really hard to get anywhere near professional hot treatment blueing, but it’s about expectations I guess.
As I’ve mentioned before on other threads - sooo much depends on the preparation!! The metal surface being sanded down to a smooth mirror like finish, the degreasing needs to be meticulous…then I warm the metal gently before applying the blueing product (repeated usually)
I quite like Ballistol:

I don't expect to be happy with it unless I win the lottery and get it done properly to be honest but I think paint or just lacquer on the bare metal would be wrong on this one that will be the fall back plan if I end up with the usual blue fingered mess

Thank you for the tips though mate

 

[Martin Bacon]

I don't expect to be happy with it unless I win the lottery and get it done properly to be honest but I think paint or just lacquer on the bare metal would be wrong on this one that will be the fall back plan if I end up with the usual blue fingered mess

Thank you for the tips though mate

No worries ..good luck with it though!
Here’s one of the HW35’s I’ve done recently - not perfect by any means, but it looked a darned sight better than when I started!

 

[Patrick]

You could try Phillips Gun Blue Paste because as the name suggests it's actually a paste that is sold in small jars and being a paste is probably a bit stronger and perhaps will penetrate better.

 

[slim63]

You could try Phillips Gun Blue Paste because as the name suggests it's actually a paste that is sold in small jars and being a paste is probably a bit stronger and perhaps will penetrate better.

Hi Patrick I thought about a gel/paste type bluing solution not because I think it will be anymore effective but simply because it might me a little less messy

Honestly I don't have any luck with any of it as much as I try and not expecting anything different this time

 

[slim63]

No worries ..good luck with it though!
Here’s one of the HW35’s I’ve done recently - not perfect by any means, but it looked a darned sight better than when I started!

That's a decent finish I don't think I would be too displeased with that at all ... do you wax it or anything after?

 

[slim63]

I started to clean up the piston this evening and found this (first pic) if anyone has an idea as to what has caused this I would be happy to hear it

Second pic is a wonderful example of the tuners art

 

[Backgardenplinker]

I started to clean up the piston this evening and found this (first pic) if anyone has an idea as to what has caused this I would be happy to hear it

Second pic is a wonderful example of the tuners art

Hmmm only thing I can think on the latch rod is really tight grip with pliers that skipped... but that looks too deep and uniform

 

[slim63]

Hmmm only thing I can think on the latch rod is really tight grip with pliers that skipped... but that looks too deep and uniform

I thought that originally but I presume the latch rod is hardened so it would take some force to mark it like that, i am thinking either a big pair of mole grips or its been in a vice at some point, the problem there is a really cant think of any reason for either of those things to happen

 

[Backgardenplinker]

I thought that originally but I presume the latch rod is hardened so it would take some force to mark it like that, i am thinking either a big pair of mole grips or its been in a vice at some point, the problem there is a really cant think of any reason for either of those things to happen

Yeah id agree. Maybe it has been in an industrial drill chuck that came loose. Ive put a latch rod i a drill before to size leather seal slightly.

But god knows. Should be able to debur the actual latch notch?

 

[Martin Bacon]

That's a decent finish I don't think I would be too displeased with that at all ... do you wax it or anything after?

When I’m happy with it, if I’m going to be shooting with it - a quick wipe over with oil. If it’s going back in the rack for a while then a little treatment with bison wax

 

[shergar]

I thought that originally but I presume the latch rod is hardened so it would take some force to mark it like that, i am thinking either a big pair of mole grips or its been in a vice at some point, the problem there is a really cant think of any reason for either of those things to happen

The latch rod is one piece with the cone section front of leather piston seal.
Where it passes through front of piston it is flattened on opposite sides to go through a matching hole.
The internal nut securing latch rod can be difficult to loosen. Sometimes thread distorted with punch to keep secure.
Marks on latch rod indicative of being gripped in vice while attempting to undo nut.

 

[chouchin66]

@slim63 , ...summer in Blighty - why not rust blue your l'il darlin ? Non iodized table salt & hydrogen peroxide as your bluing salts, some hanging time, boil in distilled water, card off , repeat....

 

[Patrick]

Hi Patrick I thought about a gel/paste type bluing solution not because I think it will be anymore effective but simply because it might me a little less messy

Honestly I don't have any luck with any of it as much as I try and not expecting anything different this time

Yep i used various cold blues but from my limited experience i find they're okay for small areas and for odd scratch and such like but never found them really successful for large areas or a complete reblue. Results tend to be uneven,some areas will darken more tha others, this may be due to the type/quality of the metal or if there are any chemical contaminants in the metal.
Even if you manage to get an even and reasonably deep coverage it's not as durable to hot blacking/bluing and tends to wear off on part that are handled regularly relatively quickly compared to hot blacking/bluing.
Unless the gun has some sentimental value or is in excellent condition apart from worn bluing and is a sort after model then an aersol can of Hammerite smooth satin black is probably the best option.

 

[Flinty]

Whatever system you use and there are many, the most likely cause of a bad or patched finish will be in the preparation of the surface to be treated, remember you will be able to see any imperfections through the finish, and then you need to degrees the surface, when you have degreased it do it again and then repeat several times, when you have done that let nothing touch that surface other than than the solution you are going to use, I have used surgical quality rubber gloves in the past and even they can leave a blemish in the finish.

 

[gedfinn]

Nickel plate !!!!!
I have run out Sulphuric Acid l ( Can buy the nickel ) ?
I did 2 innova,s & A Scorpion pistol ! & Or Phosphate ( With extra zinc )

 

[shergar]

Prompted by Airsporter posts, I revisited my Mk1 which has been putting out 14.5 superdomes between 520 - 540 ft/sec.
As an experiment, used a Posi screwdriver to open skirt and a probe to ensure pellet seated at bottom of loading tap.
Results were recorded at 565 - 570.
Now wondering what it will do with some proper 5.6 mm pellets.

 

[Martin Bacon]

Prompted by Airsporter posts, I revisited my Mk1 which has been putting out 14.5 superdomes between 520 - 540 ft/sec.
As an experiment, used a Posi screwdriver to open skirt and a probe to ensure pellet seated at bottom of loading tap.
Results were recorded at 565 - 570.
Now wondering what it will do with some proper 5.6 mm pellets.

Thats pretty good! My early Airsporters are also quite happy power wise with 5.6mm Marksman. However, variation in pellet quality means they’re a bit inconsistent!

 

[Backgardenplinker]

Guessing I'll be buying some 5.6 marksman to try in my mk2 airsporter when it's up and running

 

[Zenduri]

A bit of a clean up on the tube and barrel, by no means perfect but much better than when I started

Thinking I might have a final attempt at cold blue on this tried Birchwood Casey and Abbey before and distinctly unimpressed with both. Any recommendations guys?

Still think I am going to end up with a mess as usual

I'm probably going to throw a thread up myself and point some questions towards you since you're refurbishing a Mk 1 Airsporter and defintely need some advice.

Bluing is one thing im not keen on trying but i had a thought. What if you got a piece of upvc pipe with a cap on one end a bit longer than the overall length of the tube /barrel. Plug the barrel on both ends??? not sure if bluing will negatively effect the bore?. Then stick it in the oven and warm the tube/barrel then submerge it in the tube of bluing solution.

Some people say bluing comes out better on warm/hot metal? Dunno if true. However in theory it should mean you avoid any streaks or patchiness since it was all essentially quenched in bluing solution at the same time

Edit: I imagine it would be very pricey though for the amount of bluing solution needed