Anschutz brass regulator for 9015HP test.

[1260engineer]

Pretty redundant quality for a reg material Mr 1260
not a lot of dry metal to metal contact going on .

Best that can come of it is it don't go all green and furry

Green thats coz BSA used the wrong brass .
modern brass is totally different to the old stuff philly . one of the reasons i never buy metals off evil bay as 99 percent of it is rubbish and not what it says on the tag .

have a read . things have moved on by miles mate.

Dezincification Resistance: Arsenical and Inhibited Brasses​

Dezincification is a corrosion process that selectively removes zinc from brass alloys, leaving behind a porous and weakened copper structure. This phenomenon is particularly prevalent in certain water chemistries, especially those with high chloride levels. To combat dezincification, “inhibited” brasses are employed. These alloys typically contain small additions of arsenic, phosphorus, or antimony, which inhibit the selective leaching of zinc. Arsenical Brass (C26130), for example, contains a small amount of arsenic (around 0.02-0.06%) that significantly improves its resistance to dezincification. Similarly, inhibited Admiralty Brass (C44300, C44400, C44500) incorporates arsenic, antimony, or phosphorus to enhance its durability in dezincification-prone environments. These alloys are commonly used in heat exchangers, condenser tubes, and other applications involving contact with potentially corrosive water.

Specialty Brasses: Tailoring Properties for Niche Applications​

Beyond the common grades discussed above, a multitude of specialty brass alloys exist, each engineered for specific niche applications. These alloys often incorporate additional elements, such as manganese, nickel, aluminum, or silicon, to fine-tune their properties.

For instance, Manganese Bronze (C86300) is a high-strength alloy containing manganese, iron, and aluminum. It offers excellent wear resistance and is used in heavy-duty bearings, gears, and structural components.

Nickel Silvers, despite their name, contain no silver. These alloys are essentially copper-nickel-zinc alloys, exhibiting a silvery appearance and good corrosion resistance. They are frequently used in musical instruments, tableware, and decorative items.

Aluminum Brasses, such as C68800, offer increased strength and corrosion resistance due to the addition of aluminum. They find use in marine hardware, heat exchanger components, and other demanding applications.

C61400 is known as an aluminum bronze alloy with a high content of aluminum, up to 8%. The rest is copper and nickel, along with some amount of iron. It has high tensile strength and is resistant to corrosion, which makes it useful in marine hardware, along with some bushings and bearings.

Another grade is C95400. Also an aluminum bronze, it contains 10-11.5% of aluminum and only 3-5% of iron. The rest is copper. It is used to produce gears, bushings, and valve parts.

there are loads of brasses these days mate

The Ripley reg is from 1996 and still perfect working order .

Some of the different types i have .

they even machine differently
standard free machine far left to hard right
some of the different types of brass swarf on the lathe

 

[Jay Butts]

Green thats coz BSA used the wrong brass .
modern brass is totally different to the old stuff philly . one of the reasons i never buy metals off evil bay as 99 percent of it is rubbish and not what it says on the tag .

have a read . things have moved on by miles mate.

Dezincification Resistance: Arsenical and Inhibited Brasses​

Dezincification is a corrosion process that selectively removes zinc from brass alloys, leaving behind a porous and weakened copper structure. This phenomenon is particularly prevalent in certain water chemistries, especially those with high chloride levels. To combat dezincification, “inhibited” brasses are employed. These alloys typically contain small additions of arsenic, phosphorus, or antimony, which inhibit the selective leaching of zinc. Arsenical Brass (C26130), for example, contains a small amount of arsenic (around 0.02-0.06%) that significantly improves its resistance to dezincification. Similarly, inhibited Admiralty Brass (C44300, C44400, C44500) incorporates arsenic, antimony, or phosphorus to enhance its durability in dezincification-prone environments. These alloys are commonly used in heat exchangers, condenser tubes, and other applications involving contact with potentially corrosive water.

Specialty Brasses: Tailoring Properties for Niche Applications​

Beyond the common grades discussed above, a multitude of specialty brass alloys exist, each engineered for specific niche applications. These alloys often incorporate additional elements, such as manganese, nickel, aluminum, or silicon, to fine-tune their properties.

For instance, Manganese Bronze (C86300) is a high-strength alloy containing manganese, iron, and aluminum. It offers excellent wear resistance and is used in heavy-duty bearings, gears, and structural components.

Nickel Silvers, despite their name, contain no silver. These alloys are essentially copper-nickel-zinc alloys, exhibiting a silvery appearance and good corrosion resistance. They are frequently used in musical instruments, tableware, and decorative items.

Aluminum Brasses, such as C68800, offer increased strength and corrosion resistance due to the addition of aluminum. They find use in marine hardware, heat exchanger components, and other demanding applications.

C61400 is known as an aluminum bronze alloy with a high content of aluminum, up to 8%. The rest is copper and nickel, along with some amount of iron. It has high tensile strength and is resistant to corrosion, which makes it useful in marine hardware, along with some bushings and bearings.

Another grade is C95400. Also an aluminum bronze, it contains 10-11.5% of aluminum and only 3-5% of iron. The rest is copper. It is used to produce gears, bushings, and valve parts.

there are loads of brasses these days mate

The Ripley reg is from 1996 and still perfect working order .

Some of the different types i have .
View attachment 1016537
they even machine differently
standard free machine far left to hard right
some of the different types of brass swarf on the lathe
View attachment 1016538

Fascinating read, I too had no clue about different types of brass.

Once again, a learning day on AGF.

 

[1260engineer]

Fascinating read, I too had no clue about different types of brass.

Once again, a learning day on AGF.

To many years in engineering Jay does strange things to ya
materials and metals have moved on so much its hard to keep track .

 

[Jay Butts]

To many years in engineering Jay does strange things to ya
materials and metals have moved on so much its hard to keep track .

Well, my BR50 will be in for a thorough inspection once I get hands on it Sunday morning. I'm hoping it's got the brass now...... and happy to know if I have, it won't go green.

 

[Danger Mouse]

Jay, when you get your BR50 (which is the same stock I have for my 9015) then check the 'fit' of the metalwork (barrel/action/etc) in the woodwork.
Mine needed a shim (cut from old credit card) on each side of the action blocks to hold everything central and not wobbly.
There is only 1 small bolt to hold the action (3mm diameter from memory) and you can't wind that up too tight.
The action sits on a foam and steel washer pad (as per photo). The washer will be too thick and the rear of the action will not be sitting down on a wee wooden ledge at the rear of the inlet.
I tossed that washer gadget and put a 'false floor' of alloy in its place. A dab of fibreglass putty at each end first so that the alloy plate sat down on that and compressed it to the right height when I gently tightened the main bolt. When the putty had almost hardened I did a final tighten.
Now my action sits flat and secure, with the rear of the action now sitting down on its ledge. No wobbles.
Would pay you to check yours as you will be chasing your tail testing pellets and wondering why some of them spray all round the target.
It's not you, not the pellets. Just a loose 'bedding' job from Anschutz as that stock is made to fit a lot of different actions (not just the 9015).

 

[Jay Butts]

Jay, when you get your BR50 (which is the same stock I have for my 9015) then check the 'fit' of the metalwork (barrel/action/etc) in the woodwork.
Mine needed a shim (cut from old credit card) on each side of the action blocks to hold everything central and not wobbly.
There is only 1 small bolt to hold the action (3mm diameter from memory) and you can't wind that up too tight.
The action sits on a foam and steel washer pad (as per photo). The washer will be too thick and the rear of the action will not be sitting down on a wee wooden ledge at the rear of the inlet.
I tossed that washer gadget and put a 'false floor' of alloy in its place. A dab of fibreglass putty at each end first so that the alloy plate sat down on that and compressed it to the right height when I gently tightened the main bolt. When the putty had almost hardened I did a final tighten.
Now my action sits flat and secure, with the rear of the action now sitting down on its ledge. No wobbles.
Would pay you to check yours as you will be chasing your tail testing pellets and wondering why some of them spray all round the target.
It's not you, not the pellets. Just a loose 'bedding' job from Anschutz as that stock is made to fit a lot of different actions (not just the 9015).

View attachment 1017056

Epic information; I'm pretty handy so I'll be following your guide tomorrow afternoon and making those mods should I need to. I'm sure it'll be chrystal once it's in front of me!

I'll be posting pics.

Thanks mate.....

 

[Jonny]

Theres only been two regs Ian since 1997 with the steel cylindered 2002. The same regs Mick Dawes, designed in 82, earlier ISP, Myself from 92, BSA and many others.
The grey called the steel on here from 1997 to 2022 have gone through a few problematic stages, mainly the shut off valve or the disc springs. Model numbers/variants/different builds theres around 8 versions over 25 years. Luckily i have 20 or so spare valves you cannot buy as parts.

The other the brass reg is based on the Alcock design in 82.
Theres only one brass reg, though Anchutz will call it 2 models due to different reg pressures, thats it.
I also have it in writing direct from Anchutz (name with held) they wont handle 100bar as others have found out and need modding. Even though have seen several HP running in excess of 106bar. There are some good latest brass ones but rare to see any top up and shut off within 20 seconds, have seen one take in excess of 13 mins with a London BR shooter watching over with a timer. But everything perfect.

The Huma and other mentioned you wouldnt be able to get the action in or out of your One stock without dumping all the air, fitting and hopefully sealing before filling up.

Just using brass because its easier and quicker to machine. The only surface contact uses around a few thou of piston movement on an o ring.

 

[Danger Mouse]

There are some good latest brass ones but rare to see any top up and shut off within 20 seconds, have seen one take in excess of 13 mins with a London BR shooter watching over with a timer.

I'm not sure that I understand this. The bit about "but rare to see any top up and shut off within 20 seconds..." and then "have seen one take in excess of 13 mins..."
Does this mean that you fire a shot and then have to wait about 13 minutes for the reg to get enough air into it to allow another shot?
Or something entirely different?
Thanks for any info...you have me worried now!

 

[IainB]

I'm holding my hands up to giving some duff gen
I was 100% sure that the HP reg bought direct from Anschutz in 2023 and which currently resides in my 2002 was brass, but.....its not! My apologies everyone, as you were, ignore the ramblings of a mad man.

 

[Jonny]

I'm not sure that I understand this. The bit about "but rare to see any top up and shut off within 20 seconds..." and then "have seen one take in excess of 13 mins..."
Does this mean that you fire a shot and then have to wait about 13 minutes for the reg to get enough air into it to allow another shot?
Or something entirely different?
Thanks for any info...you have me worried now!

Yes thats the worst i have come across, which can be confirmed by a Londoner visiting timing it.
Quite a few take over 1 min 15 secs to be within 1bar if left 2 mins +
Good are around 12 to 25 secs.
Thats only part of the problem as many have found out.

 

[Danger Mouse]

Yes thats the worst i have come across, which can be confirmed by a Londoner visiting timing it.
Quite a few take over 1 min 15 secs to be within 1bar if left 2 mins +
Good are around 12 to 25 secs.
Thats only part of the problem as many have found out.

I can't complain with mine. It seems fine.
I work around the normal 25 yard benchrest target. Fire maybe 3 or 4 sighters, then go round the target card (10 shots).
Using an AR250 front rest so I'm on to the next shot fairly quickly (We are allowed a total time of 12 minutes for sighters and the 10 scoring shots).
So far mine works OK. No pellets dropping low from lack of air.
From first shot to last everything looks to be working as it should.
I should add that I have seen the photos on here of the new brass reg, and it being dismantled for inspection.
It did look somewhat dirty, and with rough finishing, stray bits of brass swarf stuck to it, etc.
Mine arrived gleaming nicely, and I did look for any stray bits of brass swarf that might be likely to gum things up...but nothing.
Almost pristine.