3d printing pistol grips.

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Goldenkey2025

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I have a Ender 3 v2 that I’ve upgraded this week to a Sprite Pro extruder to do other filaments.
I also have a Ender 5 Plus, that I’ve just added a Microswiss Revo extruder to… I want to print some bigger stuff on it. Hope to have that up and running soon..

Picked up a couple Crosman pistols, a 1377 and a 1322… both Chinese made, so ripe to toy with.

IMG_7023.jpeg


I’m planning to turn it into a “Backpacker/Drifter style carbine, although, because of where live, I have to avoid moderators it seems. 😬

Kinda wanna do something like this to it/them.
IMG_7029.jpeg


Let’s start with printing some grips…
To be clear, I’m still trying to figure out what I like, feel wise…
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These were off Thingyverse… the shelf I a bit tight for my hands, so I will see what else is out there.

I printed this pump handle/grip overnight in a “Camo PLA”, as a test piece.
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I used “Tree Support”… kinda cool!
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If anyone has any suggestions on the best materials and stuff like wall thicknesses and infill for strength and resilience, id love to hear some advice.
 
PLA is the easiest to print with and cheap, so good for experimenting. If it isn’t going to get too hot / receive direct strong sunlight, then PLA-CF might work, however PETG, ABS or similar to keep rigidity when warm might be better?

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3D Printer Filament Comparison Guide | Bambu Lab

Explore the best filament for your 3D printing needs with Bambu Lab's comparison guide. Compare PLA, PETG, ABS, and more based on strength, flexibility, and application. Find your perfect filament now!
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Thanks.
I’ve always printed with PLA historically, and it’s amazing. I also like the large number and type of colors available.
The black grips were printed with PetG… but only after I swapped to the Sprite Pro head. id tried before, and it just kept clogging.
 
You need a hardened nozzle for anything ‘CF’ and probably ‘GF’ too…
 
I don’t think it matters. You could always do CF for the finish and spray paint…
 
I haven’t tried the wood PLA, but have used Bambu’s ‘marble’ PLA and that works nicely.
 
Grips should be printed in the wood pls overnight.
Im
Not sure the pool I have is good, it was unsealed for a couple of years. It’s printing really stringy and warped…

I’m going to try a CF PLA and I also have a CF PetG next.
 
Unless you dry out a reel that has been open for a couple of years, it isn’t going to work that well.
 
Yep, wood filaments are good absorbing moisture from air. After drying worth to store in closed container with some silica gel. Also hardened nozzle is advisable instead of standard brass one, wood filament is far more abrasive than plain PLA.
 
Well, it came out pretty good for being sitting open for prob 2 years… but I am in California!

Will buy a dryer in the next couple of weeks… unless something cool pops up on Craigslist… oh wait.. darn it… there was this Diana that caught my eye..🙄
 
I have this creality drier and you can feed from it into the printer as an external spool. Holds two reels.

IMG_7323.webp
 
Nords said:
I have this creality drier and you can feed from it into the printer as an external spool. Holds two reels.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I do.

1000086180.webp

The filament doesn't even see the atmosphere from roll to tool head/hot end.

I would definitely consider a hardened nozzle if you don't already have one, and PLA-CF.

PLA-CF starts to soften at about 60°C so unless you're going to leave it sitting in direct sunlight in the height of summer, would be a good choice for many of our applications.

This is a riser/vent system for the glass lid on my machine in CF and despite sitting at the top of the machine, hasn't lost its shape at all.

1000086195.webp
 
I made a ‘heat shield’ for my Garmin Tread2 (11” specialised satnav) from PLA-CF and it sagged into the wrong shape on the car windscreen. It was in South Africa though! It was fine in Kenya.
 
Nords said:
I made a ‘heat shield’ for my Garmin Tread2 (11” specialised satnav) from PLA-CF and it sagged into the wrong shape on the car windscreen. It was in South Africa though! It was fine in Kenya.
Click to expand...
Yea that'll do it sir!
 
I have some of that in black colour waiting on shelf. I think it would survive even South Africa?
It will definitely need warm chamber and larger parts may warp if chamber not hot enough. But actually
it is easier to print with CF or GF, fiber content greatly reduces warping tendency. Also it has positive effect on surface quality
hiding most on layer lines. Also PET-CF is good option. But like said PLA-CF is enough for most cases also.
 
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