HW85k part 2- the stock and the metalwork

A quick recap. This is how I left the '85 after I'd lightened the piston and put a Hal barrel shroud on it-



You'll notice the compromise I had to make with the scope mounting and comb height. The scope isn't touching the forward mount but it isn't far off plus I had to buy two sets of Sportsmatch Low to achieve this rum setup. It's very comfortable but niggles me. What to do? In theory I could buy any aftermarket HW95/98 stock but for two things- I haven't got that kind of money and there are none I really like. The solution is to convert another PCP stock like I did with the lessons learned from the HW30 Falcon experience. The game is afoot!
I'll be using hand tools apart from a bench drill, cordless drill and circular saw for ripping any new timber that needs to be added. I don't own a router.
Here's most of said tools-


Next up, stock choice and seeing what's what regarding fit etc.

Lots of work to do , I think I’d change the scope

Fit a more age appropriate scope …….dom

Dan,
After I refurbed my old 85 I was in a similar situation as you. The original stock had a low comb for opens but my eyes are rubbish so I mounted a NS 3-9x40 Platinum on SM low mounts, on the scope rail it kept the scope just low enough to clear the cylinder and give me an ok eye position but not perfect.

I fitted a 98 stock and than solved the alignment issue, similarly Frog shrouded a converted HW80 Breech with .20 barrel for me so I now have a very “98” looking 85.

I’ve still got the original barrel and stock in storage, but in its current guise it’s looking and shooting very nicely (powered by Vortek PG4).

Good luck on your woodworking I’ll watch with interest as your last stock conversion was excellent.

The scope is staying. It's some of the best glass I've ever owned and would only be matched by an early 90s Leupold, Zeiss etc. which are again too rich for me.
I'm keeping the stock so if I want to fit opens at some point later, I can swap it and the barrel over. This has a brand new '95 .20 screwcut barrel. I do have a spare HW85 piston that I could optimise for .177 but one thing at a time.
I've had the new stock for a couple of months now. It transforms the look of the rifle. This evening's update will be picture- heavy.

Danthepainter said:

The scope is staying. It's some of the best glass I've ever owned and would only be matched by an early 90s Leupold, Zeiss etc. which are again too rich for me.
I'm keeping the stock so if I want to fit opens at some point later, I can swap it and the barrel over. This has a brand new '95 .20 screwcut barrel. I do have a spare HW85 piston that I could optimise for .177 but one thing at a time.
I've had the new stock for a couple of months now. It transforms the look of the rifle. This evening's update will be picture- heavy.

Click to expand...

Looking forward to see what stock you’re fitting it in to , I can’t begin to wonder but I’m going to say you’ve used an AA 410 stock as the donor…….dom

Cinimod said:

Looking forward to see what stock you’re fitting it in to , I can’t begin to wonder but I’m going to say you’ve used an AA 410 stock as the donor…….dom

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The AA 4/5 series stocks were top of the list Dom, good guess. Anything apart from laminate or synthetic was on the table so to speak. I've nothing against either per se but they aren't exactly carvable in the traditional sense. As it happened, not long after I bought the one I decided on a couple came up for sale on here so things could have turned out very different.

After searching I settled on a stock from a Webley Raider. It has the fewest holes to plug, was an ok price from Bagnall and Kirkwood and isn't a bad piece of Turkish Walnut all in all. Bits needed removing though





I made a jig to hold it and got stuck in.




The rifle's innards were taken out because dust was bound to get inside. The barrel and trigger were also removed leaving me with essentially a 30mm tube to fit.



As happened with the '30/Falcon, nothing was really central. See the Webley engraving above and the trigger and guard cutout below. I roughed out enough to refit the trigger unit.




Clearly more wood had to be removed and then some walnut pieces shaped so as to fit the HW trigger guard.





To the left of the picture above is one of the radiused 'cradles' that the main tube rests on and that the front trigger guard bolt passes through.
Now the trigger sits at the correct depth and with the right reach for the pad of my trigger finger.



Next was to build up the missing wood where I'd planed it flat. I went for Mahogany as earlier testing showed that the colour would be a pretty good match for the stock once both were treated with alkanet oil. I knew it would always show and this was the best compromise I could come up with.
The new piece was cut oversize and then a series of 28mm holes were drilled along its centre.


I then chiselled those out straight and square so I could test fit the action. Once a decent fit was established it was glued down and carved around the pistol grip.




That's where I'll leave it for tonight but there's plenty more to come.

Some nice workmanship there, keep at it.

As above Dan. Very impressive skills. Cant wait to see the end result

Cracking work , I love the progress pics of jobs like this. All the work that goes to planning and adjusting something to fit another can be quite a challenge and you’re doing a great job …….dom

I used to use a big router for my first stocks but later got a trim router set that had a plunge base, this made life a lot easier……dom

Cinimod said:

I used to use a big router for my first stocks but later got a trim router set that had a plunge base, this made life a lot easier……dom

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I did have a 1/2" router but rarely used it and as you say it was a big heavy thing that required me wearing ear defenders. Out of interest, which trim router are you using? I've been looking at them. Cordless would be good but as they cost a premium over corded it's not essential. I saw on one of your stocks how you'd accented the cheekpiece which I thought looked really smart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I probably would use the big one if making a stock from scratch but this one does fine for small fiddly stuff even with the plunge base.
They are rebadged Makita ones and a great deal more affordable.
With regards to the lining of the check piece it is all done freehand. Probably works better if the check piece is flat the as it helps the base run on the timber. Just mark with pencil the line of the new shape or just follow the existing edge, drop the cutter down 3/4mm and carefully follow the line, medium speed, use one hand to control the head and use the other hand to hold the guide the router along the line. Try and keep the little finger sides of both hands in contact with the wood as it gives added stability.
As it’s quite fast and you are removing very little wood it’s easy to control as there’s very little resistance.
When done just tidy up the bottom face and feather it in with the rest of the stock

I may do it on the present stock I’m doing as it’ll then match my other Vulcan, if I do there will be pics…..dom

Time to put the barrel and cocking arm back on. A slot needed cutting out for said arm so it was marked and then drilled from the inside to give a reference. The front 'cradle' and eventual position of the stock screws can also be seen.


The cocking slot on the original stock is quite long but as the new stock is deeper, the slot can be shorter. I forgot to photograph it but it was back on the bench drill with the required forstner and brad bits to drill more holes. Then it was chiselled out from the forend giving the clearance for the rifle action.

Fantastic work. I wish I had your woodworking skills

....which if you're not a total dingleberry like me and accidentally press the button clearly marked Post Reply half way, you get this-

Shown next to the original for comparison.


Now for sandwiches.
I wanted to cap the forend and pistol grip and add wood spacers. I used 0.6mm white oak veneer. The dark stripe is the same wood left overnight in dark oak wood dye. They were then glued and pressed to laminate them.


They're still very thin so I tripled up for the buttpad spacer.


More gluing for the forend tips.


And then dowel/ glue them in place.


I also did the grip cap.




Put it together, carve, buy elastoplast, carve and sand and this comes out.





More shaping and dropping down from 120 grit next for a bit of a finer finish.
(Soz about the false start above. I had to go and get crackers, cheese and a brew before I continued).

Excellent work my friend, I wish I had your ability, keep it up

Great story and outcome so far. Quite inspiring.

Coming along bloody well , I like the angled schnabel end. Cracking job ……….dom