New NateChrony v2.5 & Pricing

NateChrony

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We're releasing the NateChrony v2.5, this is the "base model" and will replace the current v2 NateChrony.

Overall its the same shape & size, but not as tall (by a few mm) - so doesnt look much different at all.
The difference is the internals - it has all the same hardware as the SteadyShot, however has the regular NateChrony software. This means it can be upgraded to a SteadyShot at a later date, the update will have a cost - equal to the difference between the v2.5 & SteadyShot.

There will also be a price increase - we came to the market silly aggressive & razor thin margins over a year ago, did the mini & v2 improvements & kept the price down, have continually added significant functionality with software updates at no cost, but the time has come to nudge it up.
The most common black Aluminium:
  • v2 - £100
  • v2.5 - £125
It is a sizable jump in terms of %, but a relatively small £ increase.
I believe we're still by far the best value on the market - the most accurate & lowest priced 'quality' Chrony on the market.
 
Saw that on the site yesterday. Smart idea to streamline the production process, and require only a software patch to unlock the Steadyshot functionality, instead of two separate units & packaging. Very good. 👏
Just needs a branded case to replace the cardboard box, and another £10 increase… and everyone will be over the moon. 😛😂
 
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Got my v2.5 today, pretty happy so far.

Quick question - is there any way to stop my screen timeout from kicking in while I've got the chrono page open (Chrome on Android 16)? Obviously I'm not interacting with the phone much while shooting a string! I know the chrono will keep logging the data but you lose the audio callouts if the screen is off. For now I've just increased the timeout setting a bit but obviously this applies to the whole phone so isn't ideal.

I did get a 'connection has timed out' error on the page at one point, although the phone was still connected to the chrono OK. Think I had to disconnect/reconnect in the end to clear it Shrug tt

One minor thing, the supplied USB lead is really nice quality but it's a bit short (I know that's been mentioned before) and won't go on facing backwards with the variable adapter fitted. No biggie as most of us will have spare cables around, but it just seems a bit of a waste!

Speaking of the variable adapter it's great that the soft case is stretchy and will happily go over that (y)
 
Quick question - is there any way to stop my screen timeout from kicking in while I've got the chrono page open (Chrome on Android 16)? Obviously I'm not interacting with the phone much while shooting a string! I know the chrono will keep logging the data but you lose the audio callouts if the screen is off. For now I've just increased the timeout setting a bit but obviously this applies to the whole phone so isn't ideal.

I did get a 'connection has timed out' error on the page at one point, although the phone was still connected to the chrono OK. Think I had to disconnect/reconnect in the end to clear it Shrug tt

One minor thing, the supplied USB lead is really nice quality but it's a bit short (I know that's been mentioned before) and won't go on facing backwards with the variable adapter fitted. No biggie as most of us will have spare cables around, but it just seems a bit of a waste!

Speaking of the variable adapter it's great that the soft case is stretchy and will happily go over that (y)

Thanks for the feedback - i've only had 1 other person request the screen timeout fix, i'll look to put in a solution for this. I'm assuming; shoot page, graph page, mini shoot page, steadyshot pages (if you have a steadyshot) would be the requirement?

We did change back to a 1m USB cable recently. Depending on where you purchased, when & which one (the black ones have a higher turnover than stone), you may have the shorter 30cm cable.
Didnt realise the cable didnt fit with the new adapter designs (2 part), everything is optimised for packaging & weight - so as small as possible to really keep the shipping costs down.
You could try to rotate the adapter 90deg - HOWEVER it may need some finessing to get the alignment perfect to avoid the alignment errors.
 
Thanks for the feedback - i've only had 1 other person request the screen timeout fix, i'll look to put in a solution for this. I'm assuming; shoot page, graph page, mini shoot page, steadyshot pages (if you have a steadyshot) would be the requirement?

For me, just the shoot page ... although I've not looked at the mini shoot page yet!

We did change back to a 1m USB cable recently. Depending on where you purchased, when & which one (the black ones have a higher turnover than stone), you may have the shorter 30cm cable.

FWIW mine (black polymer) came (today) with a 50cm cable! Using my phone charge cable for now - I have a 1 metre on the way (I've got a bag of spare ones, but they are all C-A rather than C-C Homer face palm).

Didnt realise the cable didnt fit with the new adapter designs (2 part), everything is optimised for packaging & weight - so as small as possible to really keep the shipping costs down.
You could try to rotate the adapter 90deg - HOWEVER it may need some finessing to get the alignment perfect to avoid the alignment errors.

I looked at rotating the adapter but the standard position is as good as it gets. The only way to fit the cable is with it pointing forwards, which would probably be OK with a 1 metre one. It's really not a big deal.

One other thing I remembered from my short initial session :giggle: Suppressing the decimal places on the voice callouts is good for muzzle velocity in fps where the number is big and the DPs aren't that important, but muzzle energy is a much smaller number. 11.51 fpe (legal here) and 12.49 fpe (illegal here without a FAC) would both be called out as 12 - hearing it rounded to one decimal place would be a good compromise :) Again this is hardly critical - hearing the full fpe number is OK.

All the best,
Bill
 
Yes anythin 11.5 to 12.49 is called out as 12 it would be great if it could read exact although i don't know what sort of ballache that would be for you @NateChrony
 
i don't know what sort of ballache that would be for you
Customers :rolleyes: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

It actually used to be the default to read out decimals, but multiple customers were complaining that was taking ages to read out everything, so requested to just read out the rounded number.

This is the hard part to balance, have every option for every customer, but then the setup page would be huge & cluttered.
Will get a new version out in the next few weeks with some updates.

Much love for all the feedback & suggestions, it makes a better product for everyone.
 
I have rapid fired off 12 shots with the Slash and the readout just carries on reading after i have finished and the delay to me is not that long to be honest so i shouldn't think it would be an issue to most people.
 
Customers :rolleyes: :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Haha I spent almost my entire career in application development and support :D

Played with connection to my home WiFi this morning - this is excellent. I mostly chrono from the same room I have my PC in (out of the the window, into an earth bank) so don't now need to use my phone at all. Just power up the NC from a USB charger and view the page on my computer - downloading for import to Excel is then super easy (y)

Tech. question - what's the approximate storage limit on the unit in terms of total number of shots you can log there?

Oh and another quick thought :) - would it be worth including the LED codes on the help page? Obviously ones signalling errors that would stop you getting to the page would be pointless :D but I guess there are others?!
 
Haha I spent almost my entire career in application development and support :D

Played with connection to my home WiFi this morning - this is excellent. I mostly chrono from the same room I have my PC in (out of the the window, into an earth bank) so don't now need to use my phone at all. Just power up the NC from a USB charger and view the page on my computer - downloading for import to Excel is then super easy (y)

Tech. question - what's the approximate storage limit on the unit in terms of total number of shots you can log there?

Oh and another quick thought :) - would it be worth including the LED codes on the help page? Obviously ones signalling errors that would stop you getting to the page would be pointless :D but I guess there are others?!
I dont know the actual limit. I've done 1200 shots - 250 in each save slot, then 250 in the current string. It does get a little clunky over 1,000 - on the v5 software.
v6 software had some massive improvements & will perform better, but I havent bothered testing - because 1200 shots! and its so easy to download & get data off, its really not recommended to have loads of data on there as its limited in how it can be managed.

yes - loads more needs to be added to the help pages, this is on the cards for early next year once I get the ExtremeBallistic out.
1 more big update for v5 planned, and loads of plans for v6/SteadyShot software.
 
I have rapid fired off 12 shots with the Slash and the readout just carries on reading after i have finished and the delay to me is not that long to be honest so i shouldn't think it would be an issue to most people.
Unfortunately it will depend on the browser, some drop them, some drop shots randomly. Will get something into the next update.
 
Frames vary - as the frame is the maximum size that it can take.
Then there's 2 sets of inserts with each adapter - for a 35mm, it has 10-20mm inserts & 20-35mm inserts.

Just as an aside I tried a 35mm diameter moderator (measured at 34.7mm) in the 35mm adapter ... it fits the frame fine, but there isn't quite enough clearance between the inserts when they're pushed fully apart. After removing a few tiny amounts of flash with a sharp blade I got a maximum of 34mm between diagonally opposite contact points on the inserts. I guess the DIY answer is to carefully sand the back face of each insert on a flat surface to move them apart slightly - easier to do accurately than trying to remove any material from the contact ridges. But ideally I think the shape of the insert needs tweaking fractionally.
 
Just as an aside I tried a 35mm diameter moderator (measured at 34.7mm) in the 35mm adapter ... it fits the frame fine, but there isn't quite enough clearance between the inserts when they're pushed fully apart. After removing a few tiny amounts of flash with a sharp blade I got a maximum of 34mm between diagonally opposite contact points on the inserts. I guess the DIY answer is to carefully sand the back face of each insert on a flat surface to move them apart slightly - easier to do accurately than trying to remove any material from the contact ridges. But ideally I think the shape of the insert needs tweaking fractionally.
Thankyou for the feedback! If the inserts are sticky or the space is a bit tight - its typically the flat/smooth surface of the inserts. It can bulge a little & make them a bit larger on that end.
We recently changed the design/process to remove this - but existing adapters out there may still be affected.
I'll also make sure there's an extra 2mm or so just to make sure on all adapters.
 
a V2.5 is on my Xmas list. Seeing the first reviews and the original price I almost hoped you'd hike the price a bit to stay in business. Your still doing ok price-wse against the closest opposition.
 
Thankyou for the feedback! If the inserts are sticky or the space is a bit tight - its typically the flat/smooth surface of the inserts. It can bulge a little & make them a bit larger on that end.
We recently changed the design/process to remove this - but existing adapters out there may still be affected.
I'll also make sure there's an extra 2mm or so just to make sure on all adapters.

My inserts were decently flat, and seated OK at the end of the frame. In the end I took a little material off the contact areas (using wet & dry wrapped round some tube of approx. the right diameter) and that worked fine (y)

1763645918942.webp
 
My inserts were decently flat, and seated OK at the end of the frame. In the end I took a little material off the contact areas (using wet & dry wrapped round some tube of approx. the right diameter) and that worked fine (y)
Glad it worked - but i'd never ever recommend to do this, if the sanding isnt really accurate/consistent it can throw off the vertical alignment which is really critical. Solid chance of seeing loads of alignment errors.
The preferred place would be the large flat surfaces where the screws push into.

But if it worked it worked!
 
Glad it worked - but i'd never ever recommend to do this, if the sanding isnt really accurate/consistent it can throw off the vertical alignment which is really critical. Solid chance of seeing loads of alignment errors.
The preferred place would be the large flat surfaces where the screws push into.

Yes for sure. I did start with the flat areas, but you have to remove a *lot* of material there to get even a tiny increase in clearance. I knew going for the contact areas instead risked screwing the alignment, but I went carefully with wet & dry round a tube clamped in a vice and got confidence readings of 100% afterwards! Wasn't expecting that as it's on a 20 cm long moderator mounted to a non-threaded barrel (.177) via a grub-screw 1/2" UNF adapter.

I'll only be using this adapter now on 35mm mods. so I also shortened the clamp screws - these stick out a long way when opened up to the max!
 
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