Fly fishing

I've been fishing for as long as can remember, but not bothered for a few years now, I'm now 57, so no my way around a fishing rod lol.

But, the form of fishing I've never done, is fly fishing. I really fancy giving it a go, mainly due to watching many episodes of Mortimer and Whitehouse 😁

Any advice on starter kit chaps and any other info for a fly fishing newbie ? :)
I've just returned to fly fishing rivers myself, but fortunately had all the kit from a few years ago. Looking around the Greys K4ST kits seem good - just add flies and a landing net and you're good to go👍
 
Fluff chucking is basically lure fishing. I know some people swear by it for pike. Never tried it myself.
 
Hello, Plenty of good advice, I had a wrist support made by a saddler many many years ago, Although I have Fly fished many Reservoirs and Lakes, River fishing is my first choice, There is nothing finer than watching a Brown trout rise to your artificial like the Mayfly, Good luck with you quest,
 
Rivers, when you get it right, are generally ‘easier’ to extract trout from, as you have a couple of things working in your favour.

1) Assuming there’s nothing actually rising and taking insects off the top, it’s not too difficult to work out where the fish will be in moving water, to target them with sub-surface patterns that imitate the ‘nymph’ stage of an aquatic insect.
Remember that most aquatic insects spend the best part of a year in this stage, only to emerge into a ‘fly’ to mate and lay for the last day of its life, so in rivers, sub surface is very much where the food is.
Trout like an easy life, and will sit in the spots that offer them the most amount of food while they expend the least amount of energy. They will sit behind rocks, in front of rocks, and in the slightly slower areas along side the currents that conveyer dislodged aquatic life along the river. You don’t have that luxury on a stillwater, there will be the odd cruising fish, but in general stillwater fish tend to home in on localised hatches and movements of midge larvae, and these can be anywhere, and depending on the stage of the hatch, at any depth.

2) Moving water : in a river where a trout is holding a position to intercept items of food that pass it by, they often don’t have time to closely scrutinise what they perceive to be a food item, and if it ticks enough ‘ looks like food ‘ boxes, it will take it, but very quickly eject it if it senses what it has taken is inedible. In a stillwater, this for the most doesn’t apply, as the fish have time to inspect your offerings, and you’ll often see them turn away at the very last moment. This can be down to the look of the fly itself, how it sits in the water, or partially with surface patterns, your line/leader.
Likewise, on a river, the water currents can very much work against you, especially with surface patterns. If your dry fly is not moving at exactly the same speed as other tiny flotsam moving along, they’ll not take it. To ensure your presentation is correct means being very careful how your main fly line and leader is sat in the water- fast currents acting further up your line can cause the fly in the end of the line to skit about in an un natural manner. The only exception to this rule is when fishing certain patterns at certain times - ie, when hatched flies such as sedges that behave erratically anyway are present on the water.

The one thing though, that is common across both rivers and stillwaters , relating to fish activity, is environmental conditions. Ideal conditions for most insects to make the transition from river bed to flight, is warm, dim, and breezy, and you’ll generally see most surface fish activity in these conditions.

Regarding tackle, rivers in particular, your choice of rod length and line weight is very much governed by the style of fishing you intend to do, and the size of river you intend to fish. I haven’t fished a river for 4-5 years now, but really only needed 2 rods. For medium to large reasonably pacy rivers, a 9’6”#4 is a good all rounder for dry/nymph/small streamer ( lures ).
For smaller rivers and brooks, I would use something around the 7’6” #4 range for the same techniques, but on smaller brooks it would mostly be quick evening sessions for dry fly.

Regarding tuition, if I were you I would try and get yourself into a position where a friendly fisherman that knows the ropes will take you out for the day, and you share a rod - you’ll just need waders. Guides and instructors are all very well, but your money will be better spent once you have the basics already covered, such as wading, reading the water, fly selection etc.
This is excellent advise, dont let the wind drag the fly across the surface on still waters as well!
 
This is excellent advise, dont let the wind drag the fly across the surface on still waters as well!

Very true, certainly with surface patterns. But when fishing sub surface buzzers/nymphs with a floating line, a breeze can work very much in your favour to keep tension to your leader.
 
I fly fished for many years on river and reservoir, I used to fish the rivers for a spell and then changed to fishing the reservoirs to build up my confidence again. But loved both types of setting. I had to pack it in due to problems with my casting arm elbow.
I went back to shooting.
I still have 5 or 6 fly fishing rods and various reels and tackle along with all my guns (cf,rimfires etc) all of which now have to go due to ill health.
Anyone looking to start fly fishing and is local to me is welcome to a fly rod and reel suitable to start you off.
 
Re: Casting, I was taught, (by a work colleague who had fly fished for years) to not let the fly line collapse, eg: don't let it get too low on the forward and back casts. Obviously on the last cast you are going to let the line drop onto the water!
If the line is touching the ground or the water during casting, then the rod is too low!

A good technique for this is the 10-2 method, eg: imagine you are looking at someone casting side on and they are facing left.
Imagine they are surround by / in the middle of a normal clock face.
When they cast forward, the rod should not go beyond 10pm.
When they cast back, the rod should not go beyond 2am.

A fly rod is basically a spring, so when you snap the rod to a stop at 10 or 2, the tip of the rod actually keep moving and throws the line out. Your arm / wrist is not throwing the line out, let the rod do it.
Probably made that sound complicated, but you want to keep the rod high and pointed up throughout most of the back and forwards casts.
Cheers
 
With respect to @On Target I found a starter kit is pretty good - I've only used it four times in two years. I think it was around sixty quid and has a multi piece rod (ten foot ish) reel, case, line and a tackle box of flies.
Admittedly it's not brilliant but I've caught six trout and enabled me to get some instruction on local pools and the feel for fly fishing without breaking the bank. Truth is -apart from spending more money on quality looking flies - I still wouldn't know what better equipment I would get.
(It's a bit like shooting - my gear is pretty ordinary but still exceeds my ability 😂)
 
Any advice on starter kit chaps and any other info for a fly fishing newbie ? :)
I think the advice on this thread is spot on, it's a case of asking fly fishermen who have thousands of hours of experience of the sport.

I really shortened my fly fishing learning curve by buying books about flyfishing written by fly fishermen and women with many decades of experience, I really don't think you can get better knowledge than from people like these. That way I knew what rod/reel/line/flies/tools/knots/gear and techniques I'd need for the type of waters and species I intended to target. I just started off with a 'Complete book of fly fishing' then got books about casting and fly tying as I needed them.

If you can find a good book about the type of fly fishing you want to do, written by an experienced angler it'll really help you get results quickly and easily.

Although I've been fly fishing for over 25 years I don't have many hours of experience but it surprised me how quickly I was able to catch fish after doing my research, buying the basic gear and having two 1 hour casting lessons + practising. I mainly lure and ledger fish these days on the North Wales coast but at the right time and place fly fishing has to be the most pleasurable form of angling I've ever done, there is something very satisfying about it, enjoy your journey!
 
Hello, just thought to add , What pattern of the natural fly and insects that trout feed on can be another head ache for anyone taking up Fly fishing for trout but there are some good books like Matching the Hatch through the season can help, I now tend to buy my trout flies and find Trout Flies UK to be very good and not expensive,
 
Problem with many shop bought flies is that they are overdressed to make it seem the buyer is getting his money’s worth
 
My view is to buy cheap. I spent less than a hundred pounds on the rod, reel and line combined (all new). More expensive tackle is largely for show and motivated by advertising. Basically you're buying a name and not necessarily the product.
 
Problem with many shop bought flies is that they are overdressed to make it seem the buyer is getting his money’s worth
Bare Hook CDC pattern catches more fish on ressies than normal buzzer CDCs in my experience.
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Problem with many shop bought flies is that they are overdressed to make it seem the buyer is getting his money’s worth
Hello, That is not what i find with Trout Flies UK, Last lot i bought came from Temu !!!!!!, Used to teach a chap on Farmoor earlier this year on a 2 Fish ticket and came away to 2 nice rainbows around 2.5llb each, I use to tie my own trout flies, still have all the gear but just buy a few now as i do not fish often,
 
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