Stripping a BSA R10SE - advice sought please

[R10SEwoes]

Hi there, as the title suggests, I am trying to strip down a R10SE. I have got quite far, but I cannot remove the breech block. There appears to be a screw hidden towards the barrel end of the block, but I cannot figure out how to get to it. Does anyone have a suggestion please.

Looking at the exploded view here there doesn't appear to be any thread at the breech block end of the barrel. How is it fitted? Slide in/interference fit? I have had it in the vice and cannot get any hint of movement.

Many thanks

 

[Boysey]

You need to remove ( slide the pellet probe guide backwards) to reveal the hidden bolt that holds the action.
If no one else answers, I'll send you some pics later. As I'm just about to have my tea.
Im sure you will get other answers.

 

[R10SEwoes]

Hi there, some pictures would be great thanks. I think I know the part you are talking about, but I cannot seem to move it and am in danger of damaging it

 

[Deejayuu]

Hi there, some pictures would be great thanks. I think I know the part you are talking about, but I cannot seem to move it and am in danger of damaging it

 

[Richatdmu]

You could follow this one also

 

[Boysey]

As above... no need for pics. One of the easiest guns to work on.
If you're in trouble drop me a pm.

 

[R10SEwoes]

Thanks both, that was really helpful. I have stripped it down and managed to re-engage the thread at the rear of the breech block - I had been told the thread was stripped, but its fine. Now need to rebuild it and get all the little fiddly bits right! Tomorrow evenings job.

One more question. Should the bull? barrel and moderator come apart? I haven't been impressed with the BSA standard moderator and was thinking of fitting a new one - HW or A&M nelix. Any thoughts? Nelix seems to be the quietest one on test at circa 78dB and HW the best normal sized one. Nelix is very large!

Thanks for your help. Very helpful forum. I am now on two forums! This one and the series 2 land rover club

 

[Boysey]

If you've stripdown thus far. A replacement re
gulator, lightweight hammer, custom hammer spring, stainless steel pellet probe may well be in order, it can only improve matters for the better.
By the way, a Huma reg will work wonders.

 

[R10SEwoes]

If you've stripdown thus far. A replacement re
gulator, lightweight hammer, custom hammer spring, stainless steel pellet probe may well be in order, it can only improve matters for the better.
By the way, a Huma reg will work wonders.

Can I ask what that would do for me and what it might cost please. The rifle was working fine (well as far as I knew). Now I know how to strip it, its not quite as daunting to take it apart in the future.

I'll take a look at Huma regs

 

[Richatdmu]

Take a look at apex air website they do all the bits spoken about above , I've put these bits on my R10

 

[Boysey]

It would just make the gun more consistent, smoother and would also increase the shot count. However, if your happy with the gun, "as is", the cost might outway the benifit.
Usually, you would only do these mods if the original regulator was faulty or beyond repair, and the pellet probe was shedding its coating (a common fault on the R10). A lightweight hammer and a custom hammer spring would just stop the famous BSA Burp (hammer bounce) and increase the shot count a little.
Our very own @cloverleaf may also be able to advise, as i know he had a batch of R10 Huma regulators.

 

[Blackmax]

Can I ask what that would do for me and what it might cost please. The rifle was working fine (well as far as I knew). Now I know how to strip it, its not quite as daunting to take it apart in the future.

I'll take a look at Huma regs

Personally, it depends if you have the early or later regulator in it. If it’s the later factory regulator, they perform well and I’ve found them better than a Huma. A picture of the insides will confirm, if the regulator piston has a quad O ring on it, it’s a later model.

Some find it easier to just fit a Huma and it saves cleaning the corrosion off the old regulator.

The parts from Apex (Ratworks) are excellent and worth fitting if you’re keeping the gun, some will help its performance, others such as the pellet probe will guard against future problems.

 

[Boysey]

Thanks both, that was really helpful. I have stripped it down and managed to re-engage the thread at the rear of the breech block - I had been told the thread was stripped, but its fine. Now need to rebuild it and get all the little fiddly bits right! Tomorrow evenings job.

One more question. Should the bull? barrel and moderator come apart? I haven't been impressed with the BSA standard moderator and was thinking of fitting a new one - HW or A&M nelix. Any thoughts? Nelix seems to be the quietest one on test at circa 78dB and HW the best normal sized one. Nelix is very large!

Thanks for your help. Very helpful forum. I am now on two forums! This one and the series 2 land rover club

There are plenty of shroud / moderator options around that make the R10 whisper quiet. A forum search will give you all the information you need.
This was mine. ( just one option).

 

[cloverleaf]

If you've stripdown thus far. A replacement regulator, lightweight hammer, custom hammer spring, stainless steel pellet probe may well be in order, it can only improve matters for the better.
By the way, a Huma reg will work wonders.

Can I ask what that would do for me and what it might cost please. The rifle was working fine (well as far as I knew). Now I know how to strip it, its not quite as daunting to take it apart in the future.

I'll take a look at Huma regs

The original-fitment regs are notoriously unreliable and usually very poorly setup from the factory; making the guns inefficient - meaning more noise while I've never known a new rifle give anywhere near the quoted number of shots per charge out of the box.

If working correctly the original regs generally perform pretty well, however that's a big "if" - sometimes they last for years while I've seen plenty dead within the first year of use.

The setup issue is really separate from the regs' reliability problems; however if you don't have a reg pressure tester a Huma is the easiest route to getting the reg's output pressure somewhere near correct.

In addition the Humas are typically very reliable and perform well. I choose to fit these in preference to attempting to clean up the originals as they give a more predictable outcome..

Should you fancy fitting one I have them available in this listing


A lightweght hammer will reduce lock time (trigger release to striker hitting the valve) so makes the gun a little easier to shoot - however this comes at the cost of needing more spring energy for a given muzzle energy output, so will increase cocking effort (as well as changing the guns velocity curve somewhat, which affects ideal reg setpoint).

The benefit of "custom" hammer springs depends on how they differ from the original - a stiffer one may be necessary to cater for a lighter weight striker. These aside, there's nothing wrong with the quality of the original, although if you're a tart polishing the rough ends might give infintesimal gains in performance.

The stainless probe is well worth doing as the originals are (badly) nickel (or perhaps chrome) plated; which flakes off and makes a mess.

HTH

 

[rkr]

One more question. Should the bull? barrel and moderator come apart? I haven't been impressed with the BSA standard moderator and was thinking of fitting a new one - HW or A&M nelix. Any thoughts? Nelix seems to be the quietest one on test at circa 78dB and HW the best normal sized one. Nelix is very large!

Thanks for your help. Very helpful forum. I am now on two forums! This one and the series 2 land rover club

Nelix is several dB more quiet than HW. It's also very light. Downside is it's 25mm longer than HW. I have both and use Nelix in my Scorpion.

 

[R10SEwoes]

Thanks all for your input. On the positive side, I have rebuilt the rifle and it works just fine. It is however leaking, so I am going to need to rebuild with new seals.

 

[Stellacosworth]

Hi. Contact @ped on here for a full kit of quality o rings and seals if you want to save some money. Highly recommended and have used and recommended several times. Glad to hear that you're on your way to getting things sorted. I went through similar and the guys on here are a life saver

 

[R10SEwoes]

Hi there, thanks. I have sourced some seals from the forum.

The advice has certainly been very useful and has saved me from some expense by sorting the problem myself. I had hit a brick wall!

 

[Tricky-Dicky]

Personally, it depends if you have the early or later regulator in it. If it’s the later factory regulator, they perform well and I’ve found them better than a Huma. A picture of the insides will confirm, if the regulator piston has a quad O ring on it, it’s a later model.

Some find it easier to just fit a Huma and it saves cleaning the corrosion off the old regulator.

The parts from Apex (Ratworks) are excellent and worth fitting if you’re keeping the gun, some will help its performance, others such as the pellet probe will guard against future problems.

Agreed! if you fettle and set up the STD reg correctly they are great, the corrosion is mostly caused by the lubrication they use at the factory once cleaned and fettled they are reliable.

 

[Blackmax]

Hi. Contact @ped on here for a full kit of quality o rings and seals if you want to save some money. Highly recommended and have used and recommended several times. Glad to hear that you're on your way to getting things sorted. I went through similar and the guys on here are a life saver

That’s who I use if I don’t have them in stock, thoroughly recommend Ped.