small spirit / bubble levels

There's all sorts of leveling kits out on the market & to be honest you don't need any of them, they're a waste of money. All you need is a cheap set of mini bubble levels like this: Mini_Spirit_Levels & just do this:

1. Set your rifle up on a table on its bipod, put 1x bubble level on the flattest surface you can find on the rifle, 99% of the time this is the top picitanny / dovetail rail that your scope rings attach.
2. Adjust your rifle until it is 100% level on the table and the bubble is 100% central in the level, you can use anything to do this I usually just get a few sheets of paper and add them under the side of the bipod that needs to rise up to get that bubble in the middle.
3. Now put your scope in the scope rings and add a second bubble level on top of the scopes flattest surface, 99% of the time this is the turret on top (or you can remove the cap and put it on the mechanism underneath, which ever appears flattest). Now slowly twist / position the scope so its bubble is also 100% in the middle and matches the original bubble still in place on your rifles rail.
4. Once both bubble levels are identical this means both your scope & rifle are perfectly aligned. Now tighten up you scope rings slowly in a criss-cross fashion always ensuring the 2x bubble levels remain the same at all times. Once tightened you're done !

Simple really, If you want you can buy something like this and attach it to your scope: https://eaglevisioncam.com/shop/scope-mount again when attaching a device like this ensure the bubble levels all match each other before you commit to tighten it up on your scope. Once complete you can just use the one permanent scope bubble level in future when shooting for your reference, knowing that everything is perfectly aligned.
 
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I trust the Vector Optics one works better than the Hawke one I bought? The Hawke had a fundamental flaw.

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You can see its bent in the picture, physics don't lie, the bubble will always end up in the middle when it is level.... it just isn't level, which means either the actual frame hasn't been machined correctly or has become bent, bin it its useless now. My advice is get on of these or similar device, You then have the option to twist it around the scope until its perfectly aligned with that front level. https://eaglevisioncam.com/shop/scope-mount/
 
#61 is what probably most of us are doing.

Although I don't go in for long range shooting still doesn't stop me from striving for perfection. If the rifle is canted according to information freely available it will affect the flight path of the pellet. So if that first level isn't level I see no point in carrying on.

The Hawke level went back. At £20 in the bin is not where it was going.
 
The trouble with levels is that most won't mount level on the gun there needs to be an adjustment system on them one level I had drove me bonkers trying to level it
 
This might be more reliable if looking for a more permanent bubble level: Fixed Scope Bubble Mount

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That won't work on the FX adjustable mounts.

The rings are not flat across the middle and for some strange reason are actually handed with one side lower than the other.

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#61 is what probably most of us are doing.

Although I don't go in for long range shooting still doesn't stop me from striving for perfection. If the rifle is canted according to information freely available it will affect the flight path of the pellet. So if that first level isn't level I see no point in carrying on.

The Hawke level went back. At £20 in the bin is not where it was going.
Cant doesn't affect the flight of the pellet. It changes the relationship between the line of sight and POI. For BR at one range you could have the rifle at 40 degrees relative to an upright scope, it wouldn't matter. Your dialing adjustments would be true so long as the scope is upright. Remember that the scope adjusters do not (despite what it says on the turrets) adjust the POI. They move the scope's image and reticle in the opposite direction to the POI indications on the turret. Even if the barrel was 2 inches to one side of the scope, if the POI was 1 MOA to the right then a 1 MOA adjustment of the scope would correct it. You don't need to worry about levelling the gun, just leveling the scope, and keeping it level while you shoot. A level gun is more critical in FT when we shoot from 10 to 55 yards.
 
Back to the setup table I put a level on the rifle but used a plumb line for the scope.

With a level on top of the elevation turret at the end and it isn't level. It's not far out but it did appear to me before that the reticle wasn't plumb.

Now time to play!
 
Only this type for me, the rail mounted ones just don’t sit level so a waste of time.. mounted toward the front of your scope tube on the left side, easy to quickly check with your left eye before pulling the shot..✔️
👊
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Somethings cheap just work.. other cheap things aren’t worth bothering with.. this Type are as level as you mount them.. no need to pay anything more..✔️ don’t get 30mm if you need 25mm though..
 
I just fitted a Hawke bubble to my BRK ghost dovetail rail. Fit well and works. Good addition to save canting the gun. Got to improve consistency. 👍
 
My Hawke 6-32x50 reticle does not line up with a plum line when I set it using a bubble level positioned on the upper turret.

I place a bubble level on the rail, then rotate the scope until the reticle is in-line with a plum line.
 
+1 for rifles with open sights when scope fitting. Small one on the front sight for the rifle level, one on the turret for the scope, although had to remove the cap. Swap them over for a last minute double check. 👍🏻 no good for actual canting when shooting though obviously.

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I bought a set of 8/10 or something like that, but I then compared them all to each other and binned over half of them leaving me with about 4 that all agreed with each other. My reconning is that for the difference in them it's probably fine for our use, and at least it's always consistent, way better than just leaving it to chance.

Crap - but at this price you will get several suitable as above: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Picture-Hanging-10x10x29mm-Square-Measuring/dp/B07DMF57KM/ref=sr_1_25?crid=1OR83MZ7J927L&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2plZoXy9rY4pkQbNXzT7N9DQrZoo8jC1rwheDTBCiTko7E0OjwOIR-56eYF9cubOjvnO4LuzOyAcUazW3hDyZJ9yDRhlcnekmH4lyD-O4z24CvhwGlyvLWx499G8CSyjOqPJ6SWeZNn_L3pDJ_14lu9z9uLYmvk9zLYb1ZHtGzzVZtXVKa68bzvosY_ljHdgyETf8L2RSC6Fw0W4fnk9Yxj0PUp0Qf2CiTta74nKoSf0TZb9zfkLuNlBGdbn30PNof3c7dek4hAiiutmQ1zZ23fOI3wax0HVyCm9oept0sc.b_VQbF0pdiVPO9MBwc0sU4ic0lbIYH8Bl7KDPUh04-U&dib_tag=se&keywords=bubble+levels&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1728467068&sprefix=bubble+levels,aps,84&sr=8-25
Bought some of these as well, and like you, they were not all accurate.Homer face palm
Recalibrate it, just rub it on some sandpaper a little bit on one end until the bubble is centred either way around. When I say one end I mean the the bottom. Just press more firmly at the one end and I think you will already know which end.
Just a little amount each time and you should be good.
This sorted the iffy ones out (y)
 
Wow, that is awful! Think I’ll stick with the bare ones like you have on top. I wonder if they can be bought squared to stop them rolling off. I’m sure Amazon will have something 👍🏻

Edit: thinking about it, a tiny bit of double sided tape would stop the roll or maybe these: https://amzn.eu/d/8oRnNFN
Be aware of the "square levels" you can rotate them around all four sides and get different readings as to being level.
 
Thought I'd chip in with the mirror method.

Place a mirror around 10 yards or more in the distance.

Point the rifle at the mirror.

Look through the scope at the reflection of yourself.

Align the elevation crosshair with the bore and torque scope screws to spec.
 
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