Prosport, worth it or not?

An old thread I know but just to say I have the opposite experience than most on this thread. My recent used purchase is complete garbage. Looks incredible but it’s an unfixable load of junk inside. Unusable.
It appears yours has been messed around with, so really not the fault of the rifle but what has been done to it!
 
It appears yours has been messed around with, so really not the fault of the rifle but what has been done to it!
So its 20 years old but looks like its never been used. Can only assume the original owner ran into problems with it and stuck it in a cabinet for a long time unresolved. It apparently went to the shop I got it from as part of a collection. I’m talking to them about it but as you would expect they are saying as I’ve taken it apart I may have done the damage which is complete nonsense. It was not checked in any way or they would have seen the damage and maybe noticed the top hat rusted into the piston tube. All original internals.
 
Pretty much anything can be fixed mate..?
Whats the problem, they are one of the most simplest guns internally.
It likely can be fixed but at what cost. Needs complete new cocking assembly. Likely new piston tube and piston. After buying this lot I could have purchased a brand new one. Lesson learned.
 
It likely can be fixed but at what cost. Needs complete new cocking assembly. Likely new piston tube and piston. After buying this lot I could have purchased a brand new one. Lesson learned.
Pop a wanted on here, you can pick up the PS internals for a lot cheaper than you would imagine, I wouldn't give up on it just yet
 
Top hat rusted into piston tube is easily polished out and would only be of concern if an indication gun had at some stage been submerged in water.
Bearings on piston should have avoided metal to metal contact in comp. tube.
Rust external on comp. tube, again easily polished. Only rust in swept area critical. If light, polish out and use an Aussie Gamo parachute seal to compensate for any enlargement.
A pull through of barrel might indicate presence of rust.
"Complete new cocking assembly", on a gun that "looks like its never been used", suggests a take apart, polish and grease should be the first consideration.
Warranty. Unless returning gun for full repayment, my inclination would be to do work myself. Only a full strip down will indicate extent of work, at which stage, fixing is often simpler than getting it done by others.
 
Top hat rusted into piston tube is easily polished out and would only be of concern if an indication gun had at some stage been submerged in water.
Bearings on piston should have avoided metal to metal contact in comp. tube.
Rust external on comp. tube, again easily polished. Only rust in swept area critical. If light, polish out and use an Aussie Gamo parachute seal to compensate for any enlargement.
A pull through of barrel might indicate presence of rust.
"Complete new cocking assembly", on a gun that "looks like its never been used", suggests a take apart, polish and grease should be the first consideration.
Warranty. Unless returning gun for full repayment, my inclination would be to do work myself. Only a full strip down will indicate extent of work, at which stage, fixing is often simpler than getting it done by others.
Thanks for this. Guess you have not seen other posts. All stripped and polished. 4 different springs tried. Fires and twangs like a £30 gamo and can’t cock it more than 3 times in a row without seriously affecting my blood pressure.
 
Essentially I paid nearly £600 for it on the basis that it looked immaculate so assumed it would just need an internal clean and relube. Thats not the case. The cocking assembly is full of deep scrapes and chuncks taken out so impossible to use. As for twang and recoil producing 8fpe have no idea as I can’t use it to figure out the issue. Its beyong a tune so is going to cost beyond what a brand new one would have cost. I’ve learnt a lesson.

Part of a run of bad luck as I have recently picked up an immaculate HW99 that is unusable too. Was galling. The galling fix has now made it that I can’t cock it at all.

Seriously considering getting rid of them both and the other 4 rifles I have and pack it all in to be honest. They are all in an unloving pile in the garage now and will stay there for now. Unless the shop offer up any help with the pro sport then I might dig that one out.
 
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Did the shop not chronograph the rifle before they sold it to you?
Are they meant to? They didn’t carry out any check on it at all apparently. I wish I had tested it before taking it apart too as it was diseling and I suspect over the limit. Them not checking it in any way is convenient as they can now say I have caused any damage. Its my own fault for taking it at face value I guess. Calling back tomorrow when the boss is back but not holding out much hope of them sorting it out.
 
The cocking assembly is full of deep scrapes and chuncks taken out so impossible to use. As for twang and recoil producing 8fpe have no idea as I can’t use it to figure out the issue. Its beyong a tune so is going to cost beyond what a brand new one would have cost. I’ve learnt a lesson.

Part of a run of bad luck as I have recently picked up an immaculate HW99 that is unusable too. Was galling. The galling fix has now made it that I can’t cock it at all.

Seriously considering getting rid of them both and the other 4 rifles I have and pack it all in to be honest. They are all in an unloving pile in the garage now and will stay there for now. Unless the shop offer up any help with the pro sport then I might dig that one out.
Sometimes necessary to think outside the box.
In this case the cocking mechanism is no more than a system of leverage. Smooth existing surfaces and correct any sideways play with steel shims. Shims readily available on the bay. The additional spacing with shims allows components to better rotate past each other whilst focusing forces in a straight forward / rear direction.
Latch rod should project 31 mm past piston skirt. If greater, ie 45 mm the rifle is set with a Mk1 / 2 stroke. Although favoured by many the extra spring power does involved additional cocking effort, especially in 177 calibre.
Finally check latch rod is central in piston by rotating in drill and checking for wobble. A misaligned latch rod will cause many of the problems noted.
 
Sometimes necessary to think outside the box.
In this case the cocking mechanism is no more than a system of leverage. Smooth existing surfaces and correct any sideways play with steel shims. Shims readily available on the bay. The additional spacing with shims allows components to better rotate past each other whilst focusing forces in a straight forward / rear direction.
Latch rod should project 31 mm past piston skirt. If greater, ie 45 mm the rifle is set with a Mk1 / 2 stroke. Although favoured by many the extra spring power does involved additional cocking effort, especially in 177 calibre.
Finally check latch rod is central in piston by rotating in drill and checking for wobble. A misaligned latch rod will cause many of the problems noted.
Many thanks and all noted. 👍🏼
 
Sometimes necessary to think outside the box.
In this case the cocking mechanism is no more than a system of leverage. Smooth existing surfaces and correct any sideways play with steel shims. Shims readily available on the bay. The additional spacing with shims allows components to better rotate past each other whilst focusing forces in a straight forward / rear direction.
Latch rod should project 31 mm past piston skirt. If greater, ie 45 mm the rifle is set with a Mk1 / 2 stroke. Although favoured by many the extra spring power does involved additional cocking effort, especially in 177 calibre.
Finally check latch rod is central in piston by rotating in drill and checking for wobble. A misaligned latch rod will cause many of the problems noted.
This what is so good about this forum, there's always someone who knows more than you can find by googling. Having just read Swoosh's thread about the woes of this prosort (and the 99) it's going to be interesting to see if the piston is the culprit. The extra force needed to cock it if it is an earlier piston could be the root cause of the other problems too.
 
Sincere thanks to everyone contributing on this and my springer woes thread. The advice, expertise and support is incredible and all appreciated. I must admit to some of this being a steep learning curve so I will have more questions I am sure. Also apologies if some of most posts allowed my frustration to creep in. I won’t give up. I can’t with all this help (and the amount I have spent! 😂 I look forward to posting with some positive results.
 
I had one that shot well
The mate i sold it to loves it by I prefer the TX200
Buy one if you like but make sure it's 2nd hand
 
Have you tried cocking a different PS? Might just be that they are a bit different to what you're used to. A good sized blob of moly paste, inside the tube, along the cocking slot, right where the plastic buttons on the comp tube run, made a world of difference in my old fac PS.
 
Quick update. Gunshop were really good about it. Long story short. Offered full refund no questions. Or he offered me £75 refund on basis that he sort of breaks even. (Showed me his book. He gave £490 for it) Said couldn’t repair for me as they would just send back to airarms. £25 each way delivery before they even fix it. So would lose money. So I took the £75 which should cover a few new parts to get it back on track. Now to formulate a plan.
 
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