PCP basics

[RJH]

Hi All ,
Recently purchased a used R10 regulated.
A first timer with pcp , so just some basics really.
Removing buddy bottle . Guess it’s dry fire until empty before removal ?
Does that get rid of all air or is there some in regulator ?
Thinking may need to do some replacing of o rings , and need to get buddy bottle off for 5 year check it’s a Best carbon bottle .
Thanks

 

[Spud gun]

The bottle can be removed safely with pressure in it.
Lots on YouTube about how to do this.
Google xtx r10

There's a dull thud if the reg is empty and the trigger pulled.

If the bottle is visually undamaged I wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

[Target Popper]

PCP airgun depressurisation. From what I have noted it varies from each model and make, some have bleed off screw / plugs, others recommend continual dry firing, forced firing valve opening etc. The high pressure is completely drained when the gauges P-unregulated & P-regulated show empty. Be prepared to replace O ring seals on the bleed screw plugs prior to depressurisation. Good luck

 

[Deejayuu]

I would not use the R10 bleed screws frequently. They're only M3 and the block is soft.
To remove a charged cylinder, I would, unscrew till O ring just visible then dry fire a couple to see if valve is shut. If not unscrew half tiurn and dry fire again. Repeat till dry fire empties the plenum and cylinder is slack.

 

[Neil54]

My Super ten requires three full turns before the valve shuts.
Some others are less.
Half a turn at a time, fire two shots, if still firing then repeat, half a turn etc.

 

[Blackmax]

If it’s fine leave it, unless it’s loosing air or inconsistent.

The regs are notorious for corroding, but are easily sorted out. The O ring sizes are in the Tech section stickie and quality kits are available from Lane on his website or eBay.

 

[Dodgyeye]

My Super 10, with Huma reg, just a couple of turns and fire off 5, if the last one or two doesn't change tone then a turn or two more till it does.

When firing off it's the reg that's being emptied.

My S10 bottle when I bought it was 20+ years old with a dink out the black enamel worked fine, but over abundance of caution I bought a new one from Knibbs £100 or so, how much will you be charged to test your bottle?

I did a AGF thread on stripping down, changing seals and fitting a Huma reg on my Super 10, with plenty of help and advice from knowledgeable AGF members and YT.

R10 can't be that different, good luck.

 

[Ulysees]

You can 'burp' the bottle off an R10:
Half a turn, dry fire, half a turn, dry fire, repeat until you see the pressure on the gauge drop then dry fire a few more times. Once the gauge shows empty it's safe to fully remove the bottle. This will leave most of the pressure in the bottle. If you want it empty and don't want to sit there for an hour dry firing it get one of these:

https://www.bestfittings.co.uk/shop...s-valves/buddy-bottle-air-release-drain-tool/

 

[Deejayuu]

To dump cylinder charge ‘on rifle’ the bleed screw or gauge can be slackened.

 

[Skorpion 660]

As mentioned above there are videos on removing the buddy bottle, this also applies to other bottle guns like the S10.
The first 2 minutes of this video answers the first question.

The rest of the video will help with your seal replacement, there are specific videos on R10 reg service

The amount of turns of the bottle to release the air depends on the setting of the pin that depresses the valve in your bottle, this can be a fiddle to set from scratch so if working, leave alone.

There's no test on bottles of this size as discussed elsewhere on the forum. Check for any obvious signs of damage and it should be fine. If you spot damage or are uncomfortable with it's age there are replacements readily available.

What an amazing PCP to start with! You'll never 'need' to change it.

Over time seals will fail the same as any other PCP, the seal on your reg piston will turn into a hard carbon ring then the reg will fail. This can be avoided by preventative maintenance / seal replacement throughout. All parts are available and inexpensive.
Overtime the brass parts may develop green corrosion. Check inside the bottle valve, this can prevent the valve from seating and cause a leak there and your fill port assembly, there is a ball sat on an o-ring for the none return valve with a brass fitting that houses a spring and plunger corrosion here can make the spring and plunger stick and leak from the fill port.
The brass in the regulator and firing valve assembly doesn't seem to get affected to the same degree probably due to moisture condensating on the first coldest surfaces it comes in to contact with as you fill.
Easily fixed by removing the green corrosion with Scotch-Brite or similar.