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Old HW77 restart use.

RJY

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I've an old HW77 (.22), bought in around 1984, with a 4 x 32 ASI 'scope on it. It's probably had less than two tins of pellets through it since then.

It's all in pretty good shape, but if I'm going to start using it, should it have some sort of service, if so what? It hasn't been fired in 20 years or so.
 
Thank you. Do I need any special tools or lubricants? I have a lot of mechanics' tools, automotive oils and greases etc, and .22 rifle (bore) cleaning equipment, Napier's oil, but have never disassembled an air rifle. Is there any online instruction that you would recommend?
 
There will be plenty of strip down examples on YouTube. Your 77 will be a mk1 so you won't have the pressed steel safety device under the action. The rear of the action may unscrew easily or you might have to remove the trigger cassette and get something in the slot and tap that with a mallet. Other than that, the 77 is simple.

However, it could well be fine - shoot it and see.

The only lube you'll need is a smear of moly grease on the spring, rear of piston and rear of compression tube. You don't need much.

Test the power, if that's possible.
 
That sounds OK. I will look for Youtbe examples. A chap called TbT has an article on disassembly ("Weihrauch HW97/HW97k/HW77/HW77k strip down guide TbT air rifle tuning"), looks useful for disassembly, but I really don't think I want to "tune" it if "tuning" means "more power".

I thought about just shooting it to see, but I don't want to cause damage. Could damage be caused by that, please? Maybe accuracy would be variable, the thing to check I guess.

Would automotive CV grease be OK? It's a medium consistency (NLGI 2) high temperature lithium grease containing molybdenum disulphide, so seems appropriate as a lubricant.

I think there's a chrono. at the club, but I'm not sure it's OK for .22 use, all the air gunners use .177s.
 
I doubt that using it will hurt it. That might only be possible if the breech or piston seals are totally shot, which would be unusual.

CV grease should be okay, just don't use too much.
 
As above.
Also use the search function on here there is loads of great advice already given.
On strip take plenty of pics, it will help understand how rebuild and great to post on a thread to “show and tell” your strip/build story.

If you get stuck just ask, plenty of help on here.
Spare seals, piston and breech, from @Brit Seals on the member manufacturing section.
Good luck and interested to see your progress in pictures.
 
And I wouldn’t say tuning it means more power, just a smoother (therefore easier to shoot accurately) rifle.
A chronograph - if you know anyone with one - is your friend here as I guess you don’t know what power it’s doing anyway.?

They are beautifully simple to work on
 
77s great guns
Beware of any pre load when unscrewing the rear block if you undertake the service yourself
 
Self and son took it apart, greased it, put it back together, it works.

A slightly squished breech seal was noticed (pictured), a couple of tiny balls of weld spatter and tiny metal flakes were extracted from the compression tube (?), and the somewhat rough end of the mainspring guide (pictured) (?) was remarked on.

The old grease had become very sticky and in places seemed to have formed a tough rubbery coating (pictured) devoid of lubricating properties.

The trigger housing block was quite tight. A piece of brass flat bar just smaller than the slot was inserted, and knocked around to unscrew using a timber batten as a mallet. There was a considerable preload on the mainspring, which was held back with a screwdriver while the block was unscrewed. When the mainspring was released, it was caught on another strategically and tightly held wood block, on which it left an imprint (pictured)!

Screwing the trigger block back in was a difficulty. To overcome this, a tool was made from 7 1/2" (190mm) long piece of 42mm diameter plastic waste pipe. The trigger housing block was put, threads up, on a flat surface, and the pipe placed over it; the end of a 3" (75mm) galvanised nail was heated and used to "drill" through the pipe, then following a secant through one of the pin holes in the trigger block, right through the other side of the pipe, leaving two holes (pictured).

The pipe containing the trigger block was then slid down over the vertically barrel-down assembled action, and the whole lot carefully inverted and placed with the end of the trigger block on the floor. The pipe was held, then the action pressed down carefully and rotated, keeping the whole assembly vertical, around a vertical axis, to engage a few threads, before being lifted and the screwing-on completed. Lastly the nail and pipe were removed, and final tightening done using the piece of brass flat bar used in the unscrewing process.
 

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Yea amazing really was going to say strip check seals replace piston and breech seal and good lube she be off again built like tanks great rifle
 
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