My Hill EC3000 journey (the remake)

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Figured this was probably the best place to post this. That’s what an hours use looks like on my first oil change. Taking the reply @sagalout got combined with the pics he posted, it seems like the initial carbon depositing is worse on the early changes. Carbon held in suspension doesn’t sound great to me, I would imagine at some level
that’s going to be abrasive and I’m curious if it’ll ‘drop’ at all, shame it doesn’t have some form of filter.
 
Glad I went with 1, 3, 10, 20 hours The for the first oil changes on mine and will stick to 10 hourly now.
 
sagalout said:
Glad I went with 1, 3, 10, 20 hours The for the first oil changes on mine and will stick to 10 hourly now.
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I’m closer to 2 than 1, so I figure 3 is probably the best compromise at this stage. It’s a shame the display doesn’t give a slightly more detailed display of data - clearly it’s logged anyway.
 
Just over 29 hours now and one of the burst discs has blown. Luckily because I am an obsessive buyer of spare parts I just happen to have a couple that I bought in an order of oil, temperature sensor and burst discs when I initially bought the Hill. Two minute job to change, all good, charging to 300 bar again now.

Given how much Hill charge for them I shall have a look elsewhere.
 
sagalout said:
Just over 29 hours now and one of the burst discs has blown. Luckily because I am an obsessive buyer of spare parts I just happen to have a couple that I bought in an order of oil, temperature sensor and burst discs when I initially bought the Hill. Two minute job to change, all good, charging to 300 bar again now.

Given how much Hill charge for them I shall have a look elsewhere.
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I tend to do the same - I have a crank plug/seal and a few other bits ‘just in case’ but figured the burst discs are likely generic.
 
After the initial turning black which looks bad, I would imagine you’re probably only doing it every 6 months? It works out at about a quid a month if you buy a few bottles in one go, is it really worth using anything else?
 
Avalon said:
After the initial turning black which looks bad, I would imagine you’re probably only doing it every 6 months? It works out at about a quid a month if you buy a few bottles in one go, is it really worth using anything else?
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Good point just wondered what people were paying per bottle really. As I've seen it for as much as £10.00 and as cheap as £6.00 per bottle.
 
Slayer fan said:
Good point just wondered what people were paying per bottle really. As I've seen it for as much as £10.00 and as cheap as £6.00 per bottle.
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Buy direct from Hills, supports them directly and gets you a cheap price if you’re ordering a few. With £5.99 P&P I tend to order 5 of the crank oils, and one of the service packs with crank + silicon, the Hills uses very little silicon seemingly, but I would rather have a spare on the shelf than be without.

EC-3000 Crank Oil - 50ml Bottle

Crank Oil - 50ml Bottle for use with the Hill EC-3000 Electric Compressor Pump. Both of the EC-3000 oils have been specifically manufactured and designed for use with the EC-3000 Electric Compressor. No other oils should be used with the EC-3000. Please note the Crank Oil is now red and the...
www.airriflepump.com www.airriflepump.com
 
Having had previously bad experience, you definitely pay for what you get; great post, I need to get saving!!
 
Avalon said:
Buy direct from Hills, supports them directly and gets you a cheap price if you’re ordering a few. With £5.99 P&P I tend to order 5 of the crank oils, and one of the service packs with crank + silicon, the Hills uses very little silicon seemingly, but I would rather have a spare on the shelf than be without.

EC-3000 Crank Oil - 50ml Bottle

Crank Oil - 50ml Bottle for use with the Hill EC-3000 Electric Compressor Pump. Both of the EC-3000 oils have been specifically manufactured and designed for use with the EC-3000 Electric Compressor. No other oils should be used with the EC-3000. Please note the Crank Oil is now red and the...
www.airriflepump.com www.airriflepump.com
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OK will have a look I only live about 8 miles away from them. Bought compressor direct from them just never thought to ask about oils ect.
 
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My latest bottle filling filter setup.

I built the input filter using 1/4" RO fittins and pipe as posted by @John Pembroke but I felt the internal diameter of the 1/4" stuff was to small, so I've upgraded to 3/8" RO fittings and pipe. You can see below that the 1/4 pipe fits inside the original Hill filter and the replacement 3/8 pipe so my simple mind thinks this must allow a better air flow Shrug tt

I have cut some 3mm felt pads to seperate the molecular sieve from the self indicating silica beads and also fitted them at each end of the filter tube.

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Here it all is interconnected. Small gold cotton filter on the Hill output, connected to a BGB, connected to small black cotton, connected to bottle.
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I use a preconfigure DIN connector (no restrictor) and cotton filter at the bottle end. I have another DIN connector with restrictor for the use on the bottle when filling guns.
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It takes the thick end of three minutes to bring the filter chain and closed bottle valve to 300 bar. I don't fill the bottle to 300 bar because there is no need, I can refill any time I like.

Input filter bottle
1/8BSP to 3/8 Elbow
1/4 BSP to 3/8 Elbow
1M 3/8 RO Pipe (the cheapest I could find)
 
Just done a 30 hour oil change (10 since the last). Oil looks the same as it did at the 20 hour (10 since the previous), basically very clean except for the carbon deposit. I think I will push the oil change out to 20 hours now, obviously keep an eye on it via the sight glass but since it looks so fresh and the recommend is 50 hours 20 ought to be fine. I am glad I did it at 1, 3 and 10 though.

If it's good at 50 I'll probably then push to 25 hour intervals.
 
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Clearly the rest of us need to shoot more to keep up :D

How are you finding the new filtration set-up?
 
Avalon said:
How are you finding the new filtration set-up?
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Very good. The input filter silica has started indicating so I took out the silica and sieve yesterday and "dried" it the microwave using a Pyrex bowl this time.

The silica in the end of the BGB is not showing any signs of moisture but it does take some time to come to pressure 😁 . Filling the 3L bottle and decanting to the Crowns gives me about a 1000 pellets for a 250/260 bar fill on the 3L bottle. The refill takes the Hill, to 75C and then I stop the fill. Obviously I could run the bottle down lower but then it would take longer to fill. a 250 bar fill and a 1000 pellets seems like a good compromise.

Today I ran a little test to measure the effect of the input filter (I now use mostly sieve with a few silica beads added as an indicator). Used this test bed and just ran the Hill condense filter directly into it.
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I understand that the compressed output will still be saturated but total volume of water going forward must be reduced (I think). Certainly the output from the condense filter is a lot drier, I don't get any droplets which I used to before fitting the input filter.
 
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