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Hunting Making a Squirrel Feeder…..

Here's my effort, a double hopper ammo tin feeder .... try chewing through that Mr Bushy tail !!!!!!
 

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Daft question. How quickly do squirrels learn to lift the lids on the feeders? No doubt it varies but roughly how long days? weeks?
 
Great job I think I’ll have a go at making one at the weekend cheers
 
I have made one with a transparent hinged lid, hanging below a fence line where squirrels run. They stop for loose feed on the platform but I haven't seen them getting into the feed box under the lid.
 
They will work it out. Seen them opening the lid to get nuts outs. Feeder has been there 2 years now. Just replaced with a new one
 

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I'm thinking of changing over to a purpose made metal feeder....as I'm getting through plenty of wooden ones!

Anyone used these ones 🤔
 

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Finally an adult is getting into the feed box by lifting the lid. The youngsters are running by, some jumping several feet from the fence line into trees. Won't be long now.
 
I'm thinking of changing over to a purpose made metal feeder....as I'm getting through plenty of wooden ones!

Anyone used these ones 🤔
Haven't used one but if I was buying a squirrel feeder it would definitely be one of those - it looks bomb proof !!!
 
I still have quite a few hand made timber ones but I've ordered one of the above to try 🤞

Looks good, and the price is competitive.
I think the metal ones have a couple of features missing.
The platform will be very cold on frosty days, and as the main hopper metalwork won't allow the squirrel good purchase, they may struggle to get from the tree to the platform.

I want to make it easy, and have them settle there, rather than move to a branch for each peanut, so I'll be looking at covering the hopper for grip, and making a wooden or plastic (insulating) pad for the platform.
 
Looks good, and the price is competitive.
I think the metal ones have a couple of features missing.
The platform will be very cold on frosty days, and as the main hopper metalwork won't allow the squirrel good purchase, they may struggle to get from the tree to the platform.

I want to make it easy, and have them settle there, rather than move to a branch for each peanut, so I'll be looking at covering the hopper for grip, and making a wooden or plastic (insulating) pad for the platform.

Your correct, I think the later versions they now make have a larger feeding platform welded on...I will also make an improvement to the base by adding a timber plinth to make it a more comfortable dining experience 😉.

The basic design looks good though as I can keep spray painting it as it gets used.
 
View attachment 659417View attachment 659418View attachment 659419View attachment 659420View attachment 659422View attachment 659423View attachment 659424View attachment 659425View attachment 659426Saw a question being asked on how to make a squirrel feeder recently and as I’ve just finished yet another one I thought It’d be a good idea to show how easy they are to make.
Now I never set out to make any particular size and just use whatever i have to hand material wise (other than the electrical back box, hinge, screws and makrolon sheet for the flip up lid.
All the wooden materials have been recycled from local skips.
First off cut your sides and keep the off cuts.
Screw the off cuts to the bottom of the sides so you have a location for the internal ramp to be fitted, so make sure you fit them on the inner side.
Screw on the back plate.
Mark and cut out the slot in the front plate for the electrical box centrally, don’t leave an excessive gap just make sure the box slides in smoothly.
Fit the front plate.
Fit the base plate.
Now cut the ramp to fit internally, it’s a bit fiddly getting it right first time as you’re working a little blind, when it fits mark out the opening for the feed to drop into the electrical box and then secure it in.
The electrical box will now need to be slide into position, I leave 50mm of the box outside of the front plate, now mark the sides of the electrical box where you need to remove material so that the feed doesn’t get stuck on the ramp, then cut the box to suit and screw into place on the base plate.
Mastic any gaps in the ramp internally so feed doesn’t drop past any gaps and go rotten.
Drill and fit the hinge to the electrical box with screws or pop rivets, fit the flip up lid making sure it has just enough clearance with the front plate so as not to stick when opening.
Open the flip up lid to 45 degrees and mark the front plate so that you can fit a stop screw/bolt so that the lid doesn’t stay up after feed has been taken from the electrical box, otherwise it’s a free for all on your feed.
Cut the lid to size and fit it using either a hinge (hard work) or some rubber sheet screwed or stapled into place, I use both depending how I feel at the time.
Cut the runners and drill to suit for either rope or wire for attachment to the tree/post you’re going to be using.
Attach the runners to the back of the box and your nearly finished.
Now it’s always a good idea to armour up the edges and front plate of the box to stop any gnawing taking place when the squirrels feel like a bit of vandalism, that is entirely up to you.
The box in the photos has had all the edges sealed with hammerite and varnish, and the exterior has also been varnished, at the moment I’m undecided whether to armour it up or not….🤔 as basically I’ve run out and need to do a bit of skip diving 🤭.
So I hope this helps someone/anyone who always wants to make a feeder but just wasn’t feeling that confident, and should you have any questions you can PM me.
Cheers….😉
Nice job, built to the Dakota principle! Good to see an inclined ramp internally to keep all the bait falling towards the exit slot. Good luck with the results.
 
Flip lid. Propped open to start with, the stick will only last the first visit, as soon as the lid is touched the stick will fall out. The screw then props the lid open about an inch, just enough they can smell the peanuts within and will soon learn to lift the lid, then I will take the screw out and we will be in business.

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I bet the level is down 3 or 4 inches by Monday.
 
This is probably over engineered, hoping to commission early next week when I've put in the appropriate back stop
 

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