Hunting Making a Squirrel Feeder…..

[NeilDJ]

I have modified a couple of feeders that use luggage straps to hold them on the tree, then you can move them about the woods to see where the best squirrel activity is. Just an idea if you decide to make your own.

 

[karl66]

They look great .

 

[Hackled Hopper]

I have modified a couple of feeders that use luggage straps to hold them on the tree, then you can move them about the woods to see where the best squirrel activity is. Just an idea if you decide to make your own.

Looking good! I’ve thought about using straps on feeders, but concerned that the squizzers will chew through them. Do you find that ever happens? I’d guess that they are ok as long as feeders never run empty?

 

[Rhyno]

I've made some from circular drainpipe (5 inch or 6 inch dia) - being round, they can't get their teeth into it. I chopped a section out of an old washing machine side panel to use for the little flip top feed tray, and some old re-oiled hinges for its lid. The lid for the main hopper can either be a purpose bought drainpipe end cap (can be expensive) with some canted plywood on top, or the hopper cut at an angle and plywood with hinge added. The sloping base internal to the hopper needs to be an ellipse - there are numerous videos on YT showing how to draw an ellipse.

 

[Rhyno]

Looking good! I’ve thought about using straps on feeders, but concerned that the squizzers will chew through them. Do you find that ever happens? I’d guess that they are ok as long as feeders never run empty?

I use short lengths of wire to attach the feeder to lengths of cord - the cord is therefore about a foot from the feeder, so unless the squirrels are particularly hungry/grumpy, the cord is safe (so far, touch wood). I guess that if you handle the cord after handling peanuts/sunflower seeds etc, it will be more likely to be chewed.
I have more problems with deer chewing the guy lines on my pop-up hides!

 

[Dale Smith]

Okay, so the wife has (sort of) given me permission to take out the Grey Squirrels.

Yes, I know that this won’t take much pellet damage.

Yes, I know that there’s perfectly decent instructions on building something better…..

……but this is available for a tenner. I’ve not shot Squirrels before. Dipping my toe in do you reckon this is okay? I’ve got an ideal position in the back garden for this to be placed and a shot to hopefully bag my first one.

Useful thoughts appreciated.

Thanks in advance

 

[OldStock]

Okay, so the wife has (sort of) given me permission to take out the Grey Squirrels.

Yes, I know that this won’t take much pellet damage.

Yes, I know that there’s perfectly decent instructions on building something better…..

……but this is available for a tenner. I’ve not shot Squirrels before. Dipping my toe in do you reckon this is okay? I’ve got an ideal position in the back garden for this to be placed and a shot to hopefully bag my first one.

Useful thoughts appreciated.

Thanks in advance

It will work to feed the squirrel, the squirrel should pause long enough to be dispatched cleanly.
I'd source it, set it up and do nothing for a few days so that it gets used to the feeder and gets into a routine.

Obviously any pellet pass through is going to destroy that plexiglass, so you could try a metal plate over the upper half, or even another bit of wood, the squirrel won't care, but you should be looking to contain any pass through, or miss, for safety and to hopefully keep the feeder in one piece for as long as possible.

Then I'd do two things, make some sort of target to practice on at the exact location, and then watch the squirrel behaviour, especially how long they take to eat a peanut (assuming that is what you are going to use), so that you know the window of time for that concise shot.
If you can, clock how big a peanut the thing has, a full peanut will work better than a few scraps or seeds.
Then you can take the same shot you have a few times before, but in a period less than the squirrel stays still for.

 

[Dale Smith]

It will work to feed the squirrel, the squirrel should pause long enough to be dispatched cleanly.
I'd source it, set it up and do nothing for a few days so that it gets used to the feeder and gets into a routine.

Obviously any pellet pass through is going to destroy that plexiglass, so you could try a metal plate over the upper half, or even another bit of wood, the squirrel won't care, but you should be looking to contain any pass through, or miss, for safety and to hopefully keep the feeder in one piece for as long as possible.

Then I'd do two things, make some sort of target to practice on at the exact location, and then watch the squirrel behaviour, especially how long they take to eat a peanut (assuming that is what you are going to use), so that you know the window of time for that concise shot.
If you can, clock how big a peanut the thing has, a full peanut will work better than a few scraps or seeds.
Then you can take the same shot you have a few times before, but in a period less than the squirrel stays still for.

Thanks OldStock. This is the validation I was looking for. I’ve been shooting HFT, so whilst I’m pretty new to that, I’ve learned enough for a good zero so as a humane kill is highly probable. This aspect is important to me. As for behaviour of the Squirrels. I’ve been observing this for a while so all I’m doing now is putting my metaphorical ducks in order.

Thanks again.

 

[OldStock]

Sounds perfect.
One other thing, make sure you can see where the thing may drop, reflex response is to be expected, but it if needs a follow up shot, that obviously needs to spotted and happen straight away.
If it is obscured in long grass, or foliage that risks suffering.
Most people who control them will have had a "perfect" shot not give the instant result, due to a startle, or change of behaviour, so we have to assume a second shot will be required sooner or later and plan for taking it.

 

[Dale Smith]

Sounds perfect.
One other thing, make sure you can see where the thing may drop, reflex response is to be expected, but it if needs a follow up shot, that obviously needs to spotted and happen straight away.
If it is obscured in long grass, or foliage that risks suffering.
Most people who control them will have had a "perfect" shot not give the instant result, due to a startle, or change of behaviour, so we have to assume a second shot will be required sooner or later and plan for taking it.

As it stands they’ve been laughing at me from 5 metres away on the bird feeder. Only when I get really close have they scarpered. The aforementioned is honestly not an exaggeration. These are really tame. Our garden is about 50m long, trees at the bottom. The feeder will be about 25m from the bi fold kitchen doors so I can take the shot from indoors.

 

[Dale Smith]

As it stands they’ve been laughing at me from 5 metres away on the bird feeder. Only when I get really close have they scarpered. The aforementioned is honestly not an exaggeration. These are really tame. Our garden is about 50m long, trees at the bottom. The feeder will be about 25m from the bi fold kitchen doors so I can take the shot from indoors.

The aforementioned is honestly not an exaggeration. I have stood 5 metres away and they haven’t batted an eyelid. I’ve removed the bird feeders from the Acer where they were feeding, mainly because they have destroyed the feeders but I’ll put them back and get some video footage if I can

 

[Ian1]

I have had a go at a feeder, the hopper is an old bread bin, and that is made of tin, I filled the back in with 1inch ply, then cut a hole in the top to fill it up, a hole in the bottom to let feed out, , with a flip up lid, when the lid touches the screw at the back that should close the lid back down, ort'a work ? I may need to latch the top lid?