Linseed oil

Dave120uk said:
Can you use raw linseed oil on a gun stock or does it have to be boiled linseed oil?
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How patient are you ? Raw, without a drying agent ( Japan drier- a naptha & cobalt mix) added, will take an age to dry enough to recoat. Several coats required on any oil finish to get a good/proper end result.
 
I was more worried about drying time and wondered if giving a coat of raw and buffing it off would be ok. I don't want to go mad on the finish but the stock does need a bit of attention.
 
Dave120uk said:
I was more worried about drying time and wondered if giving a coat of raw and buffing it off would be ok. I don't want to go mad on the finish but the stock does need a bit of attention.
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What wood - walnut ? Mix a meaure of pure gum spirits of turpentine, to " lean out the mixture" for the first few coats & aid good penetration. An oil finish should be " in the wood" & then built up, over multiple applications, to final gloss desired, over many sessions. Apply oil - a drop on your finger tip at a time & cover all the area it ( the drop) will cover...repeat, repeat, repeat.. buff/ burnish in each full coat with the heel of your hand, generating friction & heat. Give minimum of a day or two between coats. If oil is not allowed to properly oxidize/ polymerize between coats ( BLO or straight) you'll get a gummy sticky mess that won't dry.
 
chouchin66 said:
What wood - walnut ? Mix a meaure of pure gum spirits of turpentine, to " lean out the mixture" for the first few coats & aid good penetration. An oil finish should be " in the wood" & then built up, over multiple applications, to final gloss desired, over many sessions. Apply oil - a drop on your finger tip at a time & cover all the area it ( the drop) will cover...repeat, repeat, repeat.. buff/ burnish in each full coat with the heel of your hand, generating friction & heat. Give minimum of a day or two between coats. If oil is not allowed to properly oxidize/ polymerize between coats ( BLO or straight) you'll get a gummy sticky mess that won't dry.
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cheer mate
 
chouchin66 said:
Danish is varnish & stock oil is a linseed product.👍
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Sort of, Danish oil is a mixture of varnish and tung oil but it soaks in and is built up in layers rather than lays in the wood surface and drys like varnish.
Beechwood Tru-Oil is a good stock oil but as you say it is linseed based.
 
PistolDan said:
Sort of, Danish oil is a mixture of varnish and tung oil but it soaks in and is built up in layers rather than lays in the wood surface and drys like varnish.
Beechwood Tru-Oil is a good stock oil but as you say it is linseed based.
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Tru oil also contains resins, so a varnish type also. Trade Secrets, CCL, GB Linspeed, et al. ... all have Linseed oil.
 
Ballistol !! Just found it myself after using danish / boiled linseed on some stocks. Prefer the bal for application and finish the aroma grows on you 😄
 
You will get very good beeswax polish, made on the premises, from Quince Honey Farm at South Molton, Devon.
 
What is the hive mind's (sorry 🐝) opinion on Lord Sheraton wood balsam?
It's a waxy mixture of beeswax, pine turpentine and linseed oil
 

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so, let's back up
the stock has what kind of wood
Beech would have been stained or the color added just to the Poly use to coat the wood
oils and such would not be much good the wood is sealed
in the case of wax that could be used on top of the poly
walnut is another case stained and oiled would be a normal finish it can take oil or even wax it could have been polyed also
now some gun cleaner like Break Free could work as they have CLP i have been wiping down wood with it for almost 50 years
my choice would be tung oil vs linseed but you have to know what wood you have and the finish on it now if not bare wood
 
Be very careful with linseed oil, I am an artist and use it to dilute oil paints, if you use a rag, place it after use in something like an old biscuit tin, they can and have self ignited.
 
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