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krytox

Hw95 said:
I can see if you are shooting competition ft or hft over the winter months how you might gain an advantage, but if just informal plinking still nothing wrong with moly ,)
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i dont shoot competitions but spend a lot of winter days mooching and hunting around the woods so just looking for a setup that will keep consistent power wise even when the temperatures fall, a gun can warm up slightly when constantly shot but sometimes when i go out i may not even get a shot off so the gun remains very cold the loss of power can lead to a miss or a non fatal shot which isnt good would just like to know the setup i use is going to be consistent
 
Not had personal experience of it but I have read Krytox is a pain to remove from metal and often specialist Solventsvare required.

I would delve a little deeper before you go down that route .
 
Bighit said:
Not had personal experience of it but I have read Krytox is a pain to remove from metal and often specialist Solventsvare required.

I would delve a little deeper before you go down that route .
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The very reason I've held off. I never shoot below 40° f and it only gets to around 95°f, so a cold gun isn't my problem, if I miss.🙂
 
Krytox / Ultimox is thoroughly removed with acetone, or xylene. I use the former, and have no experience with the latter.

FWIW, moly is a pain to remove, really thoroughly.
 
With moly, any breach of the lubrication into the front of the piston seal, no matter how small, results in dieseling. Depending on severity, power level etc., this leads up to orange flames shooting out of the muzzle, but even very small degrees are enough to erode shot to shot consistency, while also shortening piston seal and mainspring life. Burning volatiles do this. This is the main reason to consider alternatives.

With Krytox / Ultimox, no dieseling can take place in conventional spring-piston guns. Any breach of the lubrication into the front of the piston seal, no matter how large, is a non-issue. In fact, some FT shooters have liberally lathered their springer innards with Krytox, with excellent results.

I used conventional moly-based lubing for years, in all my springers. After finally giving Ultimox a go, I feel the only reason to use moly is if the gun's output requires some dieseling to get up to specs.

Krytox / Ultimox is more consistent, cleaner, easier, and, given the very small amounts needed, arguably even more affordable than a high-quality moly lube job.
 
Hello to All,

I have & use the below PFPE/PTFE oils & greases :

Finish Line Extreme Fluoro

Krytox GPL 105 Oil

Krytox GPL 205 Grease

Ultimox 226 Grease

Ultimox HPL-105 Oil

Ultimox HPL-205 Grease

I have used them in my springers for the last five (5) years or so.

Finish Line Extreme Fluro is available from bike shops - I got mine from Evans.

Krytox oils & greases are available in the UK from GBRTech (email info@gbrtech.co.uk )

Ultimox oils & greases are available from Microlubrol ( http://www.microlubrol.com/index.aspx ) - Microlubrol also supply graphite, Molybdenum disulphide, and tungsten disulphide powders.

The Krytox products are scalpingly priced - the below are prices I paid in 2016 :

Krytox GPL205 2oz £26.60/2oz
Krytox GPL215 2oz £33.10/2oz

The Ultimox oils & greases are less expensive, and buying from the USA was very easy.

Have fun :)

Best regards

Russ
 
Just a fraction of what I just found in the shed in a 5 min delv;

grease.webp


Circa £500-750 depending where you look to buy, It's chucked away at work when opened / out of "life" / without paperwork (the sheer wastage in the military or aerospace would make you cry, perfectly good brand new stuff goes to landfill if no paperwork).

Do I use any of it, nope just the ,moly on the left, I was selling those at £5 at Melbourne a few years ago, I beleive Jim Tyler himself uses the tube I gave him for the last 10 years or so.

All this exotic lube stuff (a bugbare of mine) is tested and certified by the makers to various specs up to Milspec and Aviation, by test rigs and monitoring breakdown / wear to componants / bleedin' pages of parameters.

I have yet to read a single airgun related experiment where any of the wonderlubes are actually tested in any scientific way with any real world measurable conclusions in comparison.

It's just trends and stuff, and another rabbit hole.

All the above just gets used on my car / old motorbikes / garden equipment when and if.

I even lathered the bird feeder pole in some £400 a tub Aerospec brown gunk to stop the rats climbing it, that's a proven scientific result as you can see their little paw prints where they have slid down...

ATB, ED
 
FPoole said:
That's what I started out with and I've got TX200'S with over 150,000 shots that shown wear to the moving parts. For now I'll stick to moly because I know it.
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Exactly, I have a prewar BSA last apart maybe 10 years ago, couple of drops of airline oil (Cengar Green) down the transfer every tin of pellets, and was built with a light wipe of Moly.

I will pull it apart in the next few days and film it, will be in good condition, and no different to if I had spaffed away £50 on some exotic "tuning" grease or somesuch.

Load of old tosh....

ATB, Ed
 
As a sidebar - Ultimox 226 is same stuff as Krytox GPL205 , or near as dammit - may be easier to source in U.K. & possibly cheaper ?
 
it is all in the numbers
lets say a number ending with 5 is just plain and a 6 has rust inhibitors same product with something added
if you were doing 100's of guns a year as a professional you might stay away
but for the guy that is tinkering with his own stuff and has the money go for it
the thing is you use very little on the piston, i do use it on pistol springs but would i use it on a large rifle spring maybe, maybe not
Red and Tacky is cheap and that might be the product i use
i have a Tempest that i am working on and it will have it
it is good stuff but expensive
 
marflow said:
it is all in the numbers
lets say a number ending with 5 is just plain and a 6 has rust inhibitors same product with something added
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I believe the last number is the viscosity/temperature range and the first 2 numbers are what type and what additives.
  • The Krytox™ GPL 10X oil and Krytox™ GPL 20X grease series contain no additives and can be used on components that come in contact with most chemicals typically used in the industry. Typical applications include valves or bearings, seal barrier fluids, instruments, and oxygen systems.
  • The Krytox™ GPL 21X series contains molybdenum disulfide for extreme pressure (EP) conditions and should be used for slow speed or heavily loaded applications.
  • The Krytox™ GPL 22X series contains sodium nitrite corrosion an anti-wear inhibitor; it also improves load-carrying performance and is ideal for corrosive environments. Typical applications are automotive bearings, sealed pump bearings, electric motor bearings, and general-purpose bearings.
  • The Krytox™ GPL 29X greases have extreme pressure and anti-corrosion additives and have been formulated for applications needing high load-carrying capacity and anti-corrosion protection.
  • The Krytox™ GPL 2EX lubricants are formulated using unique anti-rust additives. This grease is similar to Krytox™ GPL 22X series greases, but contains a non-nitrite anti-corrosion additive.

I have a friend that used to work with the 6 figure industrial 3d printers and they went through buckets of the stuff and the sales rep would always give him tubes of the stuff to carry around for quick touch ups and he sent me a tube of 226 years back. Seems to work fine.
 
Si Titor said:
I have come to the conclusion unless its a tube like @chouchin66 has in that photo, its

1, been mixed by the seller with GPL 205 and GP 105, to thin it down.
2, its fake

Krytox only make GPL 205

Apparently DuPont made a variant years ago but no longer do.
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From a comment on reddit "Not all lubes labeled as "GPL 205g0" is Krytox brand. There are some generic/bootleg Chinese lube that are labeled as "GPL 205g0" (Gliging brand for example) so OP needs to make sure they are buying real Krytox."

From several pictures on an image search there are people loading normal GPL 205 into smaller ~10g tubs labeled GPL205 G0 for the keyboard community. All the tubs I saw were not from Krytox even though some did say Krytox. Not sure about it being mixed with the oil to thin it down or not.

Here is my tube of 226 for comparison. It came from a distributor, not some secondary/tertiary etc reseller.
JiwhbXh.jpg

w8RT4uK.jpg
 
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