Just a little project ive been working on .

1260engineer said:
figuring lever points and working out how you decrease the pressure on on end of a lever by either extending one end or moving the pivot point .
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Maximising the leverage in a design will give great results. The late Ken Turner and Venom achived this in their designs with impressive results.

The AA CD trigger, which is a Turner design, falls off slightly as the factory trigger blade wastes some of the leverage potential due to the way the staging screws are angled. I have a Venom trigger blade in one of my TX's and it makes a big difference with the different angle of the screws in it gaining a couple of mm of leverage, it is now the equal of the much more expensive Mach 1 trigger unit (interesting little point to consider when the Mach 1 trigger was available to buy, it cost about the same for the trigger unit as to buy a new TX200 Mk1 rifle).
 
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rockdrill said:
Maximising the leverage in a design will give great results. The late Ken Turner and Venom achived this in their designs with impressive results.

The AA CD trigger, which is a Turner design, falls off slightly as the factory trigger blade wastes some of the leverage potential due to the way the staging screws are angled. I have a Venom trigger blade in one of my TX's and it makes a big difference with the different angle of the screws in it gaining a couple of mm of leverage, it is now the equal of the much more expensive Mach 1 trigger unit (interesting little point to consider when the Mach 1 trigger was available to buy, it cost about the same for the trigger unit as to buy a new TX200 Mk1 rifle).
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Following advice on here i fitted an HW trigger blade to my Remington Express, & that transformed the trigger feel & pull, is this what you mean/ i'm no engineer
 
Robbo said:
Does the seal smack into the cylinder. I thought a properly set up spring and seal is cushioned by the compressed air?
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when you look into the mechanics of the underlever springer you will find them very different to a break barrel .
the cylinder /compression chamber moves .
backwards to move the piston back to cock the trigger mechanism. then it is drawn back by the cocking lever .
This is the point where you have to look at the fine detail . when you fit a new TP seal there is a slight tension of the cocking lever when it goes into the locked position. now if like me . i noticed it . so i stripped everything off the rifle and stuck it in my big lathe . set the cylinder in the tube . and put a bar in the tailstock and moved it forward . then put a clock on the cylinder through the loading arm slot .
low and behold it moved forward a touch winding on and back releasing the pressure.
not a lot but it moved.
this also answered another question . why the latch spring rings . its the shock wave running up the loading lever .
now looking back at the loading lever tip . the front edge has a slot so it hooks into the cylinder as it should .
now the back of the lever is flat .
So if the cylinder moves forward as the piston drives forward the back edge of the cylinder moves in to the slot on the tip of the cocking arm and moving away from the back edge . so you would have thought . but because of the tension produced by the TP seal it follows it . this slight movement is enough the generate the ring in the latch spring .

So when i made a slightly longer TP seal and noticed the change . this got me thinking to how i could isolate one thing from the other . hence i came up with the damper .
which ment doing a few calculations. then modifing the cylinder and the end of the cocking arm .
the material for the TP seal and the material for the main damper to a bit of working out what to use as one has to be more pliable. but i got there in the end .

( I thought a properly set up spring and seal is cushioned by the compressed air )
Unlike a pcp which has a very high speed discharge which is expanding all the way down the barrel . a springer has a problem. the pellet starts to move before max pressure .
so infact there is a point where the pressure is building and falling at the same time as the volume behind the pellet due to it moving gets bigger .
you can sometimes feel this in the difference between. light 8.44 . 4.50 pellets and heavy pellets 10.34 4.52 the heavier tighter pellet lets the pressure build more .
tiz swings and roundabouts tuning springers .
I like playing and fidding with things .
I also have a strange way of looking at things . if you shooting your 22 springer your looking around 590/600fps .
So if im shooting a heavy 177 pellets at round 600/650 fps and the rife is smoother and more accurate personally I dont give a flying .
 
robthedog said:
Following advice on here i fitted an HW trigger blade to my Remington Express, & that transformed the trigger feel & pull, is this what you mean/ i'm no engineer
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lever points make a difference mate . tiz the long spanner and the short spanner . makes life easier with a long spanner
 
1260engineer said:
Basically the HW 77/97 trigger unit .

As you can see by the picture its undergone some significant changes
View attachment 964703

No 1 . the trigger lever pivot point has move forward to No 2
Which means the stage points 7 and 8 have moved forward to 9 and 10 . this gives a much better lighter feel while remaining totally safe as it allows more weight on the trigger weight spring without changing the weight due to the lever point being changed .
No3 is a extra pin this acts as a stop for the rear sear
No 4 is a new titanium rear sear with matched sear face and new top release angle . the lever ratio 5 and 6 is also different with a longer bottom section. this acts to lighten the contact load on the bottom sear 0 which is also different. its made of AISI. 01 which is the heat treated and done right can achive a rockwell rating of 61+
this stuff . any other tool makes should know it well . and you chaps that make good quality knives .

View attachment 964709
View attachment 964710
the bottom sear carrier i did some work on to . that then being re case hardened by heat treating adding carbon which is quite easy to come by . there are some good mixes on the market that work really well at the moment.
View attachment 964719
Case in point IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING LEAVE YOUR TRIGGER WELL ALONE . Just stick to the manufacturers adjustments.

The work ive been doing is part of a prototype arrangement im working on for a totally new HW trigger designed to be made from scratch . just because you understand . well you have to keep your brain ticking when you retire 🙂
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Well done, that's why I'm waiting to see my machinist mate to make the link for an older original trigger to fit my mod 35, I have tuned a few triggers , shimmed out side play on lightnings & removed burrs from the cages & & sides of the sears in some cases + light polishing but I leave the critical stuff to someone who knows what he's so doing as regards to geometry of pivot points ,sear faces, etc.
 
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