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I bought 2 old walther lgv's

If you have never taken one of these apart before - BE CAREFUL with the sliding spring-loaded bit that blocks the trigger when the barrel is open. It is tricky to get in there correctly, only fits one way, and if you damage it the gun is inoperable. Go slowly and take a lot of photos.

Many years ago I rebuilt my two LGV's at once - and never would have made it if I hadn't left one assembled as a guide whilst the other was apart! Fans of old Walther springers fondly refer to this component as the "devil bar," LOL...

Right Cant

Thread 'Walther LGV anti bear trap'

Gents,
I have just bought an Lgv Spezial that wouldn't cock and after investigation I think the end of the anti bear trap has snapped off.

It cocks and fires ok if i push the angled trigger plate with a screwdriver whilst pulling the trigger so I can assume the trigger is all good bar the ABT.

I don't suppose anyone has one lying around? As they seem to be unobtainable or sold out everywhere worldwide. From my research it would appear an LG55 one is the same.

I also could do with a piston seal adaptor to take a hw seal if anyone has one/will make me one please.

My abt -

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Chopping the barrel down will probably result in a rifle that can't hit a barn door at 5 paces.

Swapping the shroud looks like a far better idea.



.
 
I'm having trouble extracting this broken bolt.

Someone forgot about the little lock bolt and tightened it i guess.

What left in the gun can move about 0,5mm back and fort. So its not rusted stuck. But its still very stuck.

Tried different flat screwdrivers but i only seem to ruin it more and more
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I drilled it 5mm. Then collapsed what was left with an angled punch. There are some damages. But i can sand it smooth again.
 
So guys. The lead weight... its drilled and has a spring in it. This spring seems to be pushing up on the cocking lever. So it actually engages the piston, moving it backwards. No spring and the cocking lever wont engage the piston at all.

How has this been solved historically? I mean i'm not the only idiot removing this dead weight for the last 60 years right.

Also on sidenote i tried the working rifle. And its very definitely recoiling. Quite a lot i'd say.

Even though it has about a kilo up front in the shroud and a kilo of lead in the stock. So mission failed. It simply doesn't work. This thinking, weighing it down. They probably would have to put 20 kilos of lead in there to prevent it recoiling, and it still wouldn't work.

So there is absolutely zero reason for me to keep and of this crap. Since it actually
doesn't work. And even if it does work its not working good enough.
 
I do t have any problems with it recoiling. It is what it is right. Its a recoiling rifle. So why not letnit recoil and be happy?
 
Yes, the spring on top of the stock weight is what keeps the cocking link in place. If you replace the metal with wood or whatever, it will need to be sized so that the spring goes back in precisely the same place.

It was never Walther's intent to make this a truly "recoilless" rifle. The design is typical of the first post-war match rifles, which use low power and weight to control recoil, but not eliminate it. And the LGV is IMHO the very best of that generation.

The LGV's competitors back in the day, were other heavy recoiling rifles like the HW 55 and Diana 50. The truly recoilless ones like the FWB 300 and Diana 75 came later.

All that being said, I think you will find it amazingly accurate once you get it settled in. Here is mine and what it will do.
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So ueah i will keep one 100% original.

But for mr broken: no lead weight, 1mm thick brass/ bronze shroud. So i lose 2 kilos or so. Ueah i can keep one original. But i have 2. So one i will do whatever to.i still have the org parts. Well some of them. No sights etc.

I know this rifle was already sold once before . But the guy only wanted the sights!! So thats why i don't have any sights. But trying out the working one with its org sights i'd say these are shit anyway. So don't know really,

These sights are not really good imo, i don'y understand how you can win jack shit with these. And i tried to i undertstand them...
 
MDriskill said:
This bolt is destroyed. You will have to replace it.
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yes of course. Unless i make a better system out of 12.9 bolts at work and then turn some cones, to be able to use std hardware for the rest of eternity. Could also do that..
 
mike8 said:
So ueah i will keep one 100% original.

But for mr broken: no lead weight, 1mm thick brass/ bronze shroud. So i lose 2 kilos or so. Ueah i can keep one original. But i have 2. So one i will do whatever to.i still have the org parts. Well some of them. No sights etc.

I know this rifle was already sold once before . But the guy only wanted the sights!! So thats why i don't have any sights. But trying out the working one with its org sights i'd say these are shit anyway. So don't know really,

These sights are not really good imo, i don'y understand how you can win jack shit with these. And i tried to i undertstand them...
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If you can't get along with a match aperture sight, may not want to keep these guns! The little spot-welded sight rail will not stand up to a heavy scope and stout mounts.

To remove the rear sight, first screw its clamp bolt thumbwheel on the right side ALL THE WAY OUT, as its shaft rests in one of the three recesses on the scope rail to lock it in place. Then slide the sight off the FRONT of the ramp. This nasty scratch is what happens when the bolt is not perfectly aligned and threaded fully out...
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mike8 said:
Don't really like proprietary systems. Fucx that sh!t
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No offense, but perhaps your expectations for this rifle, and future happiness, are not aligned. Every piece of it is proprietary to the low-powered, iron-sighted, collectible, 50-year-old German 10-meter match rifle that it is.
 
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MDriskill said:
If you can't get along with a match aperture sight, frankly there is no reason to keep these guns! The little spot-welded sight rail will not stand up to a heavy scope and stout mounts.

To remove the rear sight, first screw the clamp screw on the right side ALL THE WAY OUT. Its shaft rests in a recess on the scope rail to lock it in place, so it won't move otherwise. Then slide the sight off the FRONT of the ramp.
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I'm sure i can get along with diopter sights. But these are not very good ro be honest. Very dim.
 
MDriskill said:
No offense, but it seems to me your expectations for this rifle are just not compatible with the basic nature of low-powered, iron-sighted, collectible 50-year-old target rifle.
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No they are. But in machinist school i learned very quickly that you dont use threads other than std like m8 m10 m12. I sometimes replace m14 and m18. They should use m16 and m20 of course. And these are non std bolts. And that only tells me the designers are retarded. Now revereting to non std diameters like 9mm and also fine threaded ( of which thete are 2). Now you are ultra retarded as a designer.
 
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