HNSD

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So I've decided to give this BR mullarky a bash so I bought an entry level Vector Sentinal 10-40x50. SFP
This might double up as my FT rig with the bigger focus wheel.
It's a fine ret so not sure how that would fare on a FT course in darker conditions.
If it turns out too difficult I'll use my Akela with the IR Veyron on.
First impressions are, the optics are crisp on all mags, no vignetting or distortion. You lose a little light on 40 mag as expected but its still pretty good.
I wanted high mounts and they shipped mediums so I used my weaver high mounts on my Eaglevision adaptor.
IMG_20240214_123132.webp

one.webp
 
I got the same scope for BR and think its great. Good luck with your shooting BR and HNSD. (y) :)
 
HNSD. I have one and love it although as you said, the ret is very fine and can be difficult to see sometimes.
 
I used one of those for FT. It worked surprisingly well, made an extension for the side wheel for more resolution on rangefinding, and it tracked squarely which was a welcomed surprise. Not having a zero stop or graduations under the elevation turret was a bit annoying though, if your elevation range requires more than one full turn, it's easy to forget where you are and how to get back to zero - I was going to solve this by printing a collar to sit under the turret, so it couldn't be wound down further than your zero, didn't get around to it though.
 
I used one of those for FT. It worked surprisingly well, made an extension for the side wheel for more resolution on rangefinding, and it tracked squarely which was a welcomed surprise. Not having a zero stop or graduations under the elevation turret was a bit annoying though, if your elevation range requires more than one full turn, it's easy to forget where you are and how to get back to zero - I was going to solve this by printing a collar to sit under the turret, so it couldn't be wound down further than your zero, didn't get around to it though.
You can make scope stops quite easily out of scrap mounts. Made one before for a 32 mag simmons duplex.
If you take a single mount and cut it really thin, bolt it to the scope next to the elevation turret upside down, mark it and cut it 2mm below the top of the turret. Drill a 2mm hole just off center and glue a pin in as pictured below, clean it up and spray it black. Then take the turret off and get a brass washer which will sit in the turret bolt hole and solder a brass rotar arm on it. Spray that black too. The turret bolt will hold the rotar arm in place.
turret.jpg
 
You can make scope stops quite easily out of scrap mounts. Made one before for a 32 mag simmons duplex.
If you take a single mount and cut it really thin, bolt it to the scope next to the elevation turret upside down, mark it and cut it 2mm below the top of the turret. Drill a 2mm hole just off center and glue a pin in as pictured below, clean it up and spray it black. Then take the turret off and get a brass washer which will sit in the turret bolt hole and solder a brass rotar arm on it. Spray that black too. The turret bolt will hold the rotar arm in place.
View attachment 412655

Shim under the turret does the same job without scrapping a mount, grinding, painting, soldering and drilling and doesn't look like something off scrap heap challenge 😛

Zero/pick your lowest turret position, measure the gap between scope body and turret, collar to suit - sorted. Save the scrap mounts for sidewheel pointers.
 
Shim under the turret does the same job without scrapping a mount, grinding, painting, soldering and drilling and doesn't look like something off scrap heap challenge 😛

Zero/pick your lowest turret position, measure the gap between scope body and turret, collar to suit - sorted. Save the scrap mounts for sidewheel pointers.
Details?
 

The turret bit or sidewheel pointer bit?

Turret pseudo zero stop - a collar under the turret so it can only screw to the point where your lowest elevation point is. With all other aiming points above that, if you get "lost" on your clicks, just screw the turret down until it bottoms out & you'll know where you are - saves stressing the erector spring at max travel, as you're not always guaranteed accurate tracking on cheaper scopes. Same principle as your stop arm hitting the post/pin, just easier to make.

Sidewheel pointer - grind the jaws off a cheap/scrap mount, stick a trimmed 1mm hex key between upper & lower ring, makes a sidewheel pointer as good as anything available commercially.
 
The turret bit or sidewheel pointer bit?

Turret pseudo zero stop - a collar under the turret so it can only screw to the point where your lowest elevation point is. With all other aiming points above that, if you get "lost" on your clicks, just screw the turret down until it bottoms out & you'll know where you are - saves stressing the erector spring at max travel, as you're not always guaranteed accurate tracking on cheaper scopes. Same principle as your stop arm hitting the post/pin, just easier to make.

Sidewheel pointer - grind the jaws off a cheap/scrap mount, stick a trimmed 1mm hex key between upper & lower ring, makes a sidewheel pointer as good as anything available commercially.
Not the side wheel pointer, got a pointer already on.
If you could draw me the design for the zero stop that would be great.
 
Not the side wheel pointer, got a pointer already on.
If you could draw me the design for the zero stop that would be great.

Will do. It is literally just a thick washer.

I'm crap at explaining but here goes; you know how the turret cap moves upwards/away from the scope body as you dial elevation, creating a gap between scope body and the cap - usually underneath is graduated with marks like a micrometer, but in some cases it isn't, so it's all too easy to forget where you are.

Once you've set your scope up and found the lowest point the turret will be dialled into, you want a shim/washer to take up that space. Going forwards, bottoming out the turret would always put you at that same point, an ideal known reference, anything from there is positive/upwards clicks.
 
If you could draw me the design for the zero stop that would be great.

Make a click chart & pick your lowest elevation where the turret is physically at its lowest point, measure the distance between scope turret and body, the gap here:

10-23-13-01-Scope-turrets__01__01.webp


Make a ring/shim/collar/washer to that height. Remove the turret, fit your part and refit the turret:

10-23-13-01-Scope-turrets__01__02.webp


Now, whenever you dial your turret down and it bottoms out, it bottoms out at a known reference point. I do that, and undo the turret so that point aligns with "0" on the turret markings, then my click chart has all ranges and clicks referenced from that point.

I've not come across many scopes that don't have the vertical graduations under the turret, but I've had a few inc the Sentinel & that's what I do to create a rudimentary zero stop/reference point.
 
Will do. It is literally just a thick washer.

I'm crap at explaining but here goes; you know how the turret cap moves upwards/away from the scope body as you dial elevation, creating a gap between scope body and the cap - usually underneath is graduated with marks like a micrometer, but in some cases it isn't, so it's all too easy to forget where you are.

Once you've set your scope up and found the lowest point the turret will be dialled into, you want a shim/washer to take up that space. Going forwards, bottoming out the turret would always put you at that same point, an ideal known reference, anything from there is positive/upwards clicks.
LOL, you need to draw it. I'm not getting you.
 
Make a click chart & pick your lowest elevation where the turret is physically at its lowest point, measure the distance between scope turret and body, the gap here:

View attachment 412752

Make a ring/shim/collar/washer to that height. Remove the turret, fit your part and refit the turret:

View attachment 412754

Now, whenever you dial your turret down and it bottoms out, it bottoms out at a known reference point. I do that, and undo the turret so that point aligns with "0" on the turret markings, then my click chart has all ranges and clicks referenced from that point.

I've not come across many scopes that don't have the vertical graduations under the turret, but I've had a few inc the Sentinel & that's what I do to create a rudimentary zero stop/reference point.
Got ya
 
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