Gunpower stealth help please

Frog

Frog

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I recently bought an stealth and whilst initially thought it was fairly consistent testing again shows 1.5 fpe variation.

So I have taken it apart! It is simple apart from I haven't managed to get the breech block (the bit with the knob on!) out. Help!

This is what I found:
IMG_20240611_111223.jpg


I'm not sure if those innards are standard (anyone know if they are?) but they can certainly be improved (locating the hammer spring better for example). The preload spacers - the long and short one are both very loose on the barrel and will get replaced.

IMG_20240611_111324.jpg

The hammer looks well worn - I assume from the trigger sear(?) - not sure but I may be able to replace the delrin or even make a whole new one...
IMG_20240611_111357.jpg


QUESTION!
How do you replace the orings in the breech slide? This rifle has been recently serviced apparently but the two o-rings in there that seal the barrel and top-hat are ancient!

Grateful for any help or thoughts:)
 
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Top hats on the valve were notorious for coming loose and altering the power
 
Triggertime said:
Pull the foam off the cocking knob and it should unscrew and the breach will come out👍
Click to expand...
Thanks.
Tried that but no go. Looking on line shows me I need to remove the trigger mechanism and the bottle retaining ring and take it out the back. Be much easier if it came out the front! I only want to replace the o-rings!
 
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I know a bit, although there were a few different bits over the years.

The 'hammer' looks non-standard, at least compared to a MK1. It was a crap affair that ran on the internal diameter of the tube/body, and was often the cause of inconsistency (clattering down the tube on it's way to the top hat/valve). A lot of modders (and myself at times), changed the hammer to run on the outside diameter of the thicker portion of the barrel, often running on Delrin or whatever. This made them smoother and more consistent (if you got it right!). There was also a bit of playing about with the spring and the preload.

Unless yours is standard for a later hammer (I don't think so), it looks like yours has Delrin lips, presumably to try and smooth out any chatter as it runs down the tube.

From memory, the safety mechanism fouls the breech block, at least on the earlier guns I think
 
What is the shaft on the cocking knob made from?
From my memory, they were a steel pin, with a different length thread on each end which simply screws into the (transfer port) shunt.
This should have a plastic collar / sleeve to stop the cocking knob pin damaging the receiver frame on firing. When the cocking knob is in the "keep" position.
I can't remember any preload spacers on mine - just the spring resting on the barrel collets.
I didn't have any delrin rings on my hammer either - just all 1 piece of steel. I was aware of an all plastic hammer on way older models, but didn't know that there was a "glided" metal hammer.
Those transfer port o rings, condition of bottle valve springs and the top hat set up, are the keys to consistency.
 
Sorry for the slow response, every time I start typing the boss gives me work to do. :LOL:

The hammer is non standard, I've never seen one like that before on a stock or modified gun.

My main suspicion given the erratic power output is the breech slide orings.

The rubberised cover can be pulled off the cocking knob, which reveals the means of unscrewing the knob.

Once the breech slide is out the orings can just be picked out with a suitable tool (I use an old thin jewellers screwdriver I've bent a 90 degree hook into). Once replaced I anticipate things will flatten out significantly.
 
Frog said:
Thanks.
Tried that but no go. Looking on line shows me I need to remove the trigger mechanism and the bottle retaining ring and take it out the back. Be much easier if it came out the front! I only want to replace the o-rings!
Click to expand...
Ooof good luck if I remember right the screw is under the grip??? But it's been a long time I had a stealth!!
 
Frog said:
I recently bought an stealth and whilst initially thought it was fairly consistent testing again shows 1.5 fpe variation.

So I have taken it apart! It is simple apart from I haven't managed to get the breech block (the bit with the knob on!) out. Help!

This is what I found:
View attachment 501736

I'm not sure if those innards are standard (anyone know if they are?) but they can certainly be improved (locating the hammer spring better for example). The preload spacers - the long and short one are both very loose on the barrel and will get replaced.

View attachment 501737

The hammer looks well worn - I assume from the trigger sear(?) - not sure but I may be able to replace the delrin or even make a whole new one...
View attachment 501738

QUESTION!
How do you replace the orings in the breech slide? This rifle has been recently serviced apparently but the two o-rings in there that seal the barrel and top-hat are ancient!

Grateful for any help or thoughts:)
Click to expand...
Phone A and M custom gun smiths they serviced it. I would be careful pulling it apart particularly the trigger they advised the inconsistent ones have usually been messed about with. It was shooting very well and consistent prior to sale , new bottle, new seals ?? If you hadn't pulled it apart I would have offered you a refund . sorry your having issues with it . Give A and M a call they might have a look free as they have only just serviced it and set it up??
 
Staffy1 said:
Phone A and M custom gun smiths they serviced it. I would be careful pulling it apart particularly the trigger they advised the inconsistent ones have usually been messed about with. It was shooting very well and consistent prior to sale , new bottle, new seals ?? If you hadn't pulled it apart I would have offered you a refund . sorry your having issues with it . Give A and M a call they might have a look free as they have only just serviced it and set it up??
Click to expand...
Doing between 9.9 and 11.7 FPE so not as consistent as I would like (that's between shots not the power curve!). The breech o'rings are worn flat on the inside so I would guess they have been in a while - I've got one out and it came out with a lot of trapped muck in the oring groove - draw your own conclusions!
Not after a refund and don't want one (I like it!) and you will note I did not mention you or A&M. However, there is plenty of room for improvement! A&M clearly replaced the bottle (whether that was needed or not) but action wise I don't think they have done anything - hammer spring quite grubby and generally needing a bit of a wipe over of all the internals. Frankly I wouldn't go back to A&M. I have a lathe so can make up a hammer that is guided by the barrel to replace the ill fitting and worn item that's in there at the moment. From what people have said about the not standard internals this one has been messed with in the past and A&M have not rectified that.

Already have a 300ml 300bar bottle here and waiting on a regulator - it will be born again and should give me a lot of consistent regulated shots following a bit of fun fettling:). I'm sure it will be fine and initial testing tells me the barrel is a good one.

It's not a problem to me so hopefully not a problem to you.
 
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Staffy1 said:
Sorry to hear you've had issues I would contact A and m custom gunsmiths they had just serviced it. I bought the gun on here and apart from new seals and a new bottle it was as far as I was aware standard and all working as it should, it shot well and I had no issues .Be careful messing with trigger A and M said lots of issues arise when they are stripped as they are difficult to set up properly . If the gun started to shoot badly you could have messaged me and I would have refunded you. Bearing in mind A and M have only just serviced it I would give them a ring and ask if they can help. I can confirm its the same gun etc for you. I am sorry but think now its in bits a refund wouldn't be on the cards . Hope you get it sorted.
Click to expand...
I'll sort it fear not!:)
The trigger comments from A&M about consistency are a red herring as far as I am concerned - the trigger will release the hammer if it works and I can not see once it has done that it has any part to play in consistency in terms of FPS / FPE...
 
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Aston_Shooter said:
I know a bit, although there were a few different bits over the years.

The 'hammer' looks non-standard, at least compared to a MK1. It was a crap affair that ran on the internal diameter of the tube/body, and was often the cause of inconsistency (clattering down the tube on it's way to the top hat/valve). A lot of modders (and myself at times), changed the hammer to run on the outside diameter of the thicker portion of the barrel, often running on Delrin or whatever. This made them smoother and more consistent (if you got it right!). There was also a bit of playing about with the spring and the preload.

Unless yours is standard for a later hammer (I don't think so), it looks like yours has Delrin lips, presumably to try and smooth out any chatter as it runs down the tube.

From memory, the safety mechanism fouls the breech block, at least on the earlier guns I think
Click to expand...
Yep - current hammer is pretty nasty really both in design and the fact it's worn. I have plans to mod it to a barrel guided one. The huge preload spacer will go and that preload will be built in to the rebuilt hammer (moving the spring more towards the barrel collet / muzzle) as the 'over the barrel guided bit'. Should work....
 
Coopster132 said:
I just shot a video and whilst it was uploading it appears you had some success. But I'll leave it here in case it's useful...

Click to expand...
Thanks - getting the o-rings out is not a problem it was getting the breech slide out so I could get them out. Thus far I have removed the 'tophat oring' but need to get the slide out to get the barrel one out...

Am I looking at 8mm id and 1.5mm cross section o-rings?
 
Frog said:
Thanks - getting the o-rings out is not a problem it was getting the breech slide out so I could get them out. Thus far I have removed the 'tophat oring' but need to get the slide out to get the barrel one out...
Click to expand...
I take it you've been able to remove the barrel and the rest of the innards and are just trying to get the knob off the cocking slide to get it out the front? In which case you should just be able to remove the rubberised knob cover, unscrew the knob and get it out the front of the gun like everything else.
 
For consistent power try fillin
Frog said:
I'll sort it fear not!:)
The trigger comments from A&M about consistency are a red herring as far as I am concerned - the trigger will release the hammer if it works and I can not see once it has done that it has any part to play in consistency in terms of FPS / FPE...
Click to expand...
For consistent power try filling to 185 bar rather than 200. The valve spring has a lot more pressure against it when filled to full hence the first twenty or so shots will always be lower power then power will rise till pressure starts to drop off at end of charge /fill.. My previous one I would fill to 180 bar and then refill to 190 bar after about a hundred or so shots . Never had consistency issues then at all. Hope you get it all sorted
 
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