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Does anyone work with sheet aluminium?

For me to much "hanging" from the thing. Intend to shorten the power leads right down do away with the croc clips and use the threads in the post and eyelets then cover all exposed metal.
Have made sure the 110 and 230 switch is fixed solid also.
I voided warranty already by opening it to make sure all looked (at least) safe with no bad connections.it looked well made to be fair.
if i am able to get it mounted on a bracket (easier to carry and i would defo forget the psu) wonder best way for a added earth?
Really, these supplies are designed and supplied to be installed inside a cabinet that provides a layer of protection. They are incredibly low priced. But that is no excuse for bad connections that can cause all sorts of nasties.

Take out the PCB and double up the existing single earth to PCB that presently depends on the tightness of a single screw that holds the PCB to chassis. Ideally, the chassis should be earthed directly, top and bottom, including shakeproof washers

The screwed connectors at the front have a horrible habit of gradually working loose if you use bare wires. That is why having the power supply separate from the vibrating compressor is a good idea. I always crimp the input wires, ideally to a ring connector so at least it cannot actually fall off. Then strain relief using two tywraps.
 
The last time I did similar I just used a couple of QR clamps on a bit of wood, I just used our dining table as it's got a reasonably tight radius. It helps if you have a straight edge for the back too, and an understanding Mrs 🤣
The small hole I drilled in our dining table was a cause of friction for many years......! I did fill it beautifully. A craftsman job.
 
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