Dashcam power problem?

Tricky-Dicky

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This one has got me a bit foxed, everything is pointing to not enough power IE amps but..... it in my old Honda Civic and I have had the same system in it for years and recently replaced the mirror dashcam with another of the same make but that now started exhibiting the same symptoms either flashing on and off or just not turning on, now I have tested both on my laptop as a power supply and a charging unit and they both behave as they should so.......

I have checked the cig socket and its extension for voltage and that's fine, I have also tried three different power supply one being the one it came with and same result, I have just tried connecting the cig socket extension by directly wiring to the internal fuse panel still the same and I just tried an OBD power supply, but I am guessing it's the wrong contacts and not intended for an older car 2007, my last recourse is to try directly from the battery and if that still doesn't work I am at a bit of a loss, I could order a direct connect kit but that THE last resort, so any ideas into what's going on would help?
 
I use one of the mirror dash cams and have had no problems. The internal battery is only about 150mA. They dont need alot of power , no where near what a ciggy lighter socket would push out. It could be interference. I had a separate satnav that wouldn't work properly when plugged into the socket. I put it down to interference. In the old days I would wire up accesories directly from the battery, it was easy putting the wire through the bulkhead ( a hole with a rubber grommit) to feed things. An inline fuse about 4-6" from the battery. It's harder now with modern cars , you cannot normally get to the bulkhead let alone drill a hole in it to feed a wire.
 
This one draws 2.1 amps, in theory the internal fuse panel is direct from the battery via the main fuse, so I can't see why there won't be enough power, the only other thing I can think of is a resistance somewhere causing power/current drop.
 
Check the voltage at the camera (when powered up) - See if there is a significant drop...connection or thin cables perhaps.
 
Check the voltage at the camera (when powered up) - See if there is a significant drop...connection or thin cables perhaps.
The biggest problem is trying to get the meter on the contacts of a USBC plug in the car.Head bang 65
 
The biggest problem is trying to get the meter on the contacts of a USBC plug in the car.Head bang 65
Lots of USB breakout boards on Ebay, see item 406054880762 for a basic device (275516169874 for access to more pins)

I wonder what its voltage range is (from the specification), and what the car is presenting at the socket.
How old is the car battery and how high is the voltage going, just in case it is over, rather than under.
Also is the chassis ground good.
 
Thanks! wasn't thinking! The car presents what it should to the cig socket battery voltage 12.8-13 and charging voltage when running but due to the difficulty mentioned I haven't been able to verify what any of the three converter/supplies put out surly one of them must be within range.
 
OK yes sorry I wasn't really thinking there.

If any of the adapters have LED's on I'd watch those for change of brightness, or flicker.
Car cameras are prone to having their cables pinched, or fractured due to movement.
Assuming it is USB voltage, try a battery bank, and slowly move the lead about, see if it is internally broken.
Car cameras with their capacitors and internal battery, often hide a momentary break, and the lead being in a different orientation may not show that.
 
Very odd been doing some more digging and found there is something screwy about bother supply point and the power adapter, if I use the rear power socket the camera works fine, same goes for an internal power source so rather that go though the whole system I will just use an extension from the rear supply, mind you the dam central locking is starting to play up as well.
 
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