Cometa owners club.

Think I'm leaning towards the Fenix 400 Compact Star
I can't fault mine at all. It shoot really nice with the WW kit in it. If you can get the mod to unscrew ( top cap, then tube) you can reverse the tube. Doing that puts the Red foresight slot on the under side of the mod rather than the top side. It's an absolute bugger to get the tube to move tho. Mine was held with some nasty black loctite, That plain refused to move, It took me some time to get it to move, and then needed to be worked really hard to get it off. I didn't want to use heat as I didn't want to burn the black finish.

You can just take the top cap out of the mod, and the red foresight just slides out. The mod internals are very basic. It's some pipe lagging over some plastic cages with alu washers. You can cut sections of the lagging out to open up the internals. I think I cut one of the lagging sections into 4, making 4 foam spacers in effect. And superglued those to the cages so they could be reinserted. Meaning my mod has 2 larger spaces internally.

I made a barrel weight for it as well with some stainless, that was drilled to go onto the rear sight post fixings. Even with my scope that low you can't see it through the scope.

And I also gave mine a good polish with some car polish. It came up really nice.

2.jpg
 
@Iceni. Can I ask please how you removed the top screw cap from the moderator? Why, because when I purchased my Cometa Fenix USC Premier Star the first thing I did was to try and remove the moderator just to make life easier to clean the barrel. But the Moderator as you probably know Is permanently bonded on.

So I tried to remove the moderator top screw cap instead, and guess what, I couldn't get that off either 😞
 
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10mm hex wrench, but they can be stubborn as i seem to think that they use threadlock at the factory, try a bit of heat, but only a low temperature.
Would a hair drier be ok to heat the surrounding area? I have got a heat gun but I'm guessing that would be too hot and would damage the bluing on the moderator. I'm also guessing that I'll have to get hold of a vice because when I tried to remove the moderators end cap with the correct fitting Allen key I couldn't hold the barrel steady enough.

This Is the Allen key that I used :
Screenshot_2024-11-10-11-06-57-51_99c04817c0de5652397fc8b56c3b3817.jpg
 
Would a hair drier be ok to heat the surrounding area? I have got a heat gun but I'm guessing that would be too hot and would damage the bluing on the moderator. I'm also guessing that I'll have to get hold of a vice because when I tried to remove the moderators end cap with the correct fitting Allen key I couldn't hold the barrel steady enough.

This Is the Allen key that I used :
View attachment 605716
Yes to the hair dryer.
No to the vice 😱
 
Yes to the hair dryer.
No to the vice 😱
Thanks for the advice. I just thought that by wrapping something protective like some kind of flexable rubber material around the barrel and then clamping the barrel In the vice, this would then surely allow me to get a much better grip and leverage on the Allen key and therefore more of a chance to unscrewing the moderators end cap 🤔
 
Thanks for the advice. I just thought that by wrapping something protective like some kind of flexable rubber material around the barrel and then clamping the barrel In the vice, this would then surely allow me to get a much better grip and leverage on the Allen key and therefore more of a chance to unscrewing the moderators end cap 🤔
Soft jaws if you need to use a vice.
 
anyone got a pic of what's inside the mid
I haven't got a picture, but it's:

15x9mm climaflex pipe insulation - you can buy it in 1 meter lengths.

15mm plastic spacers.

And 2 or 3 washers.

It's not a fancy setup internally. And it's very cheap to adjust and make your own.

couldn't get that off either

I used a 10mm Allen key to remove the end cap.

Then to get the tube off I put the stock between my knees, and worked with a strap wrench. It was a cock to remove, constant going back and forwards little bit more each time. It gave me blisters. I suspect it's a form of studlock not threadlock as it was binding up the threads even after the tube started to move.

The tool I used to get it going was not dissimilar to this one.

Strap Wrench.

On the Stock moderator internals the pink plastic spacers are fully covered in pipe lagging.

I may have re-crowned it as well :D The original crown looked like it had been pressed in!


mod.jpgmod2.jpgmod3.jpg
 
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First trip to the range today with the .25 USC.
I used two types of pellets, AA’s and JSB Hades. The AA’s were very tight into the barrel and the Hades were a bit better but still tighter than I’m used to. Both gave good groupings but just wondered what you guys with a .25 USC are using? 👍
 
First trip to the range today with the .25 USC.
I used two types of pellets, AA’s and JSB Hades. The AA’s were very tight into the barrel and the Hades were a bit better but still tighter than I’m used to. Both gave good groupings but just wondered what you guys with a .25 USC are using? 👍
I've only tried Hades and FTT's in my .25 USC, and the latter were also an extremely snug fit.
 
First trip to the range today with the .25 USC.
I used two types of pellets, AA’s and JSB Hades. The AA’s were very tight into the barrel and the Hades were a bit better but still tighter than I’m used to. Both gave good groupings but just wondered what you guys with a .25 USC are using? 👍

I use FTT and Marksmen

FTTs are tighter fit and more consistent. Marksmen are looser and faster / more powerful.
 
I haven't got a picture, but it's:

15x9mm climaflex pipe insulation - you can buy it in 1 meter lengths.

15mm plastic spacers.

And 2 or 3 washers.

It's not a fancy setup internally. And it's very cheap to adjust and make your own.



I used a 10mm Allen key to remove the end cap.

Then to get the tube off I put the stock between my knees, and worked with a strap wrench. It was a cock to remove, constant going back and forwards little bit more each time. It gave me blisters. I suspect it's a form of studlock not threadlock as it was binding up the threads even after the tube started to move.

The tool I used to get it going was not dissimilar to this one.

Strap Wrench.

On the Stock moderator internals the pink plastic spacers are fully covered in pipe lagging.

I may have re-crowned it as well :D The original crown looked like it had been pressed in!


View attachment 606053View attachment 606054View attachment 606055


super star. oddly mines louder than my tuned hw99 without a mod.

but my new cometa usc 177 laminate is going back friday. terrible accuracy i cant zero at 15m. It's got 3 breech washers!? machined on a Friday afternoon.... Shame.
 
but my new cometa usc 177 laminate is going back friday. terrible accuracy i cant zero at 15m. It's got 3 breech washers!? machined on a Friday afternoon.... Shame.
That is a shame, Mines got a nice action, and shoots pretty good. Cloverleaf at 30y, and it'll hit the golfballs (43mm) on the 75yard mark at the Greyhound 25% of the time when fully rested my Brocock sniper makes the same shot about 90% of the time. It's about 6 mildots at 12x mag.
 
That is a shame, Mines got a nice action, and shoots pretty good. Cloverleaf at 30y, and it'll hit the golfballs (43mm) on the 75yard mark at the Greyhound 25% of the time when fully rested my Brocock sniper makes the same shot about 90% of the time. It's about 6 mildots at 12x mag.

Much the same as mine, I definitely let the rifle down 😂
And shoots most of the jsb stuff too, still fancy a .25 Commie but Im getting my big cal fix with the kral at the moment, but one will find its way here eventually 😎
 
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