Budget Plunge Saw?

[DaveP796]

I hope this isn't too far off topic!
I have some projects in mind involving man made boards and I'm fed up with the time it takes me to get straight accurate cuts with my existing kit.
I have been researching and am currently trying to decide between a plunge saw or a somewhat better quality circular saw that could be fitted with a track adapter if necessary - the one I'm looking apparently allows realignment of the blade and soleplate, which could resolve a lot of difficulties I've encountered previously.
Mains powered, total budget £200 ish, any max cut depth over 25mm.
Just wondering if anyone has any recent experiences to share...

 

[Andy from Sandy]

What is the size of the material you want to cut? Maximum length of cut required?

 

[DaveP796]

What is the size of the material you want to cut? Maximum length of cut required?

Primarily 12mm and 19mm ply. Max cut length will be across the sheet - 1220mm?

 

[Andy from Sandy]

Max cut length will be

... a mystery at present! LOL

 

[DaveP796]

... a mystery at present! LOL

Fumbled! - but corrected

 

[Markvw]

I started out with just getting a guide rail (Makita 1.5m) and an adaptor to fit my circular saw. That worked well, for starters. I already had a Makita CC. The adaptor plate wasn’t expensive, but unique to my saw’s base plate

 

[DaveP796]

I've looked quite closely at a couple of Makita saws - a 165mm model which is available bundled with track and adaptor for about £150 and a 190mm model with the alignment adjustment I mentioned for a similar price. The track adapter for this one seems to be another £60, then there's the track as well...

Do you have to faff about setting up the adaptor every time? Are you still able to position the track with the anti splinter rubber right up to the line?
I have read of possible isueswith this...

 

[Andy from Sandy]

For full sheet I think a track saw would be good. I haven't looked at models and makes but it would be something I would get.

I have a guide rail that is about 6 foot long that clips to boards but it's quite difficult to hold the saw against it on very long cuts. Practice would make it work but for very occasional use I'm not proficient.

 

[Markvw]

I've looked quite closely at a couple of Makita saws - a 165mm model which is available bundled with track and adaptor for about £150 and a 190mm model with the alignment adjustment I mentioned for a similar price. The track adapter for this one seems to be another £60, then there's the track as well...

Do you have to faff about setting up the adaptor every time? Are you still able to position the track with the anti splinter rubber right up to the line?
I have read of possible isueswith this...

You would ‘calibrate’ the rubber splinter guard, with the first pass. Shallow cut, with sacrificial board underneath. Once done, line up, and cut. I’ve got several different clamps, for holding the rail down. They are well worth using. I used to leave the adaptor fitted, to the CC. It worked fine for me

 

[Metanurb]

If it's a one off project then have you considered getting it pre cut?

I've used B+Q before, first 3 cuts on a sheet were free. Not available in all shops but may be worth checking out depending on the job.

 

[Titanist]

A 1500 rail could take up a big chunk of your budget, if £200 is your budget and 1220 is your max cut I’d go with a decent circular saw, your not actually making plunge cuts so it doesn’t warrant the extra expense.
Better save £40 and just get something like this

Vaunt Guide Clamp 1270mm

Get it tomorrow: Great Deal on Vaunt Guide Clamp 1270mm and on many more Power Tool Accessories . Rated EXCELLENT on TrustPilot

its.co.uk

 

[DaveP796]

For full sheet I think a track saw would be good. I haven't looked at models and makes but it would be something I would get.

I have a guide rail that is about 6 foot long that clips to boards but it's quite difficult to hold the saw against it on very long cuts. Practice would make it work but for very occasional use I'm not proficient.

Yes, I think that is where tracks really outclass clamping a long level to the board. You need it really well supported and butted up to a wall to make that work!
With hindsight I think that the cheap saw I chucked last year probably had some toe out on the blade. It was never satisfactory and I'm surprised I kept as long as I did.

 

[Shaggy2070]

I've been using the Parkside (Lidl) Plunge track saw for years without any problems. Comes with 2x 700mm tracks that can connect together. I think last time they had them in it was about £75.
Then I bought an Evolution track set with 2x 1400mm tracks, clamps and bag for about £80 but I think they have gone up to about £96 now.

 

[DaveP796]

You would ‘calibrate’ the rubber splinter guard, with the first pass. Shallow cut, with sacrificial board underneath. Once done, line up, and cut. I’ve got several different clamps, for holding the rail down. They are well worth using. I used to leave the adaptor fitted, to the CC. It worked fine for me

Thanks! That confirms my understanding of how it all works It's just that I read someone explaining that he thought he had lost that calibration as a result of repeatedly detaching and replacing the adapter. Fixable, of course, but a pain nonetheless.

 

[Titanist]

I had to joint two 4m breakfast bar worktops on site, at 900mm wide they both had a curved edge on both sides which needed removing on one side in order to join them. I had four rails with me 1x1.5, 2x 1.2 and 1x1, what I found with may first cut was that even joined tightly they wanted to bow at the joint, I had to measure back from the other side and support the joint area with timber clamps in place, would have been a breeze if I’d had access to a wall saw but I persevered and got there in the end

 

[DaveP796]

If it's a one off project then have you considered getting it pre cut?

I've used B+Q before, first 3 cuts on a sheet were free. Not available in all shops but may be worth checking out depending on the job.

I do use B&Q if I need long pieces - I can squeeze a 4ft square into the back of the car, but anything longer needs to be in strips!
The selection isn't that good either

 

[DaveP796]

I had to joint two 4m breakfast bar worktops on site, at 900mm wide they both had a curved edge on both sides which needed removing on one side in order to join them. I had four rails with me 1x1.5, 2x 1.2 and 1x1, what I found with may first cut was that even joined tightly they wanted to bow at the joint, I had to measure back from the other side and support the joint area with timber clamps in place, would have been a breeze if I’d had access to a wall saw but I persevered and got there in the end
View attachment 988490

Whew - rather you than me!
Fortunately my own plans are less ambitious, fitting doors and shelving to alcoves etc. I'm planning to have stuff cut slightly oversize then trim to fit.

 

[Markvw]

Thanks! That confirms my understanding of how it all works It's just that I read someone explaining that he thought he had lost that calibration as a result of repeatedly detaching and replacing the adapter. Fixable, of course, but a pain nonetheless.

The splinter guard can be replaced. It just sticks on the back if the rail. I replace all mine when I fit a new blade. Trim it back, good to go again

 

[DaveP796]

I knew the strip was replaceable - I didn't realise it could be as easy as that sounds.
That's very much worth knowing.
Thanks!

 

[landymick]

Plunge saw and track would be best but expensive .

Take a look at Evolution tools for reasonable priced saws and track packages .