BSA Meteor MK7 fettle

flyboy1950 said:
Have you jobbed the trigger screw at all, have you shortened the travel?
Click to expand...

No i havent touched it yet, will have a look tomorrow. Cant find the extension for my tool to reach in there. I might have an alan key with the right head or Could remove the guard everytime adjusting, just a faff.

Shorter pull will be a significant upgrade if it can be reduced.

I need to get a decent screwdriver set with changeable heads! 👍
 
So long since I altered the set screw I think I used an electrical screwdriver ground down to fit. I will look in my trigger spares box later to check..
 
Backgardenplinker said:
I used to work in materials recycling facility.. can you tell 😂 It should do the job nicely. Ive used hdpe plastic to sleeve a few times and its a good material for dampening resonance. Steel is my first choice for strength. Depending on the cocking lever depth in the slot and operating angle whilst cocking. Some rifles will rip up sleeves with use unless seriously heavy duty. With the meteor theres not much pressure on the sleeve from cocking so i dont see it wearing out for a long time 👍
Click to expand...
If the join in the piston sleeve is lined up centrally with the cocking slot, what can be seen can be removed, then there is no friction between it and the foot of the cocking arm leading to it tearing. I use this method on my Diana's and never had any problems.
Another note is the trigger which looks very much like the infamous Gamo trigger of ill repute. This can be improved from infamous to famous with the insertion of a couple of small washers as in the Chris McCall You Tube video.

benjamin trail np trigger fix​

 
With thanks to @Nomis for the tools i have adjusted the trigger.

Interestingly, fully screwed in works best in my opinion. It now has a very long/light first stage, a stop then a more minimal force to break. Its certainly safe.

Ive tried the screw set various amounts 'out' but it feels the same. Shorter first stage long/firmer second stage.

Perhaps not to your liking @flyboy1950 but it is a matter of a few turns out and back to how it was. I say that as it is a bit unorthodox with so much of the trigger travel being a long first stage.

Hard to video holding phone but made a few video clips to demonstrate.

Trigger before adjustment.

View attachment 775900

Trigger with adjustment.

View attachment 775901

25 meters rested shooting test, i had to zero a bit again as i decided to nip up breach bolt slightly more.

IMG_20250726_174532.jpg
IMG_20250726_174900.jpg
IMG_20250726_174851.jpg
IMG_20250726_174809.jpg


Another windy day for it but groups were tighter overall. Im going to stick with H&N barracuda 8 pellets. I dont have many of the others left unfortunately. Not sure these are the best but seem to work well.

So i dont think i can do much more with the meteor now. Its shoots better, power is only slightly reduced and its pretty accurate if i do my bit. 🙂👍
 
That looks pretty good to me Rob, may in the future have to look into seeing if the first stage travel can be reduced but am very happy at what you have managed to achieve. As mentioned before I wasn't to bothered about power, just taming the thing to be more accurate.:D:D
 
My Mk 7 .22 shoots an average of 11.9 ftlbs. Compared to my Mk 5 that I squeeze 10.2 ftlbs from, it is definitely more of a max power springer air rifle. It’s also much more accurate than the Mk 5. I paid about £180 for it from a gun shop near Banbury about 10 years ago.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1641.webp
    IMG_1641.webp
    219 KB · Views: 24
Question please.

I have a Mk6 according to the serial number being ZE.

But, the TW Chambers diagram only shows the massive metal top hat in the Mk7.

I ordered the mk 6 main spring according to the TW C diagram and its far too long, about 11 inches. So I am wondering if I have a Mk7 rear with a Mk6 front?

TWC say that "The MS030 is supposed to fit both the Mk6 and Mk7 BUT it turns out there are two MK7s, the ‘Early’ and ‘Late’ models. The ‘Late’ Meteor uses the MS005 which is shorter in length".

How do I know which mine might be? The existing spring has been badly cut down to size so using it as an example is risky. I could use the measurements from this thread of course....

Anyway, any thoughts please?
 
Backgardenplinker said:
Tinkering begins this afternoon.

Ive found a spring of near identical dimensions to the original but a little longer.

View attachment 769286

So both can be used to experiment. My plan is to do away with the steel top hat. In reality that is there for weight not spring support in a piston without a latch rod.

Sleeving the piston.

To address spring support, reduce tolerances and as a by product, add 'some' weight back to piston.

Cleaned the piston up and selected a steel coffee can.

View attachment 769287

Ill let pictures do the talking..

View attachment 769288View attachment 769289View attachment 769290View attachment 769291

Its a little short but should be fine. A washer holds it all in tidy so spring end can unload. I can add a slip washer also.

View attachment 769292

Spring guide.

The factory guide is a bit of an issue. Usually its simple to modify or drop a new guide in but not really the case on this one.

Ive never done this before but i sleeved the guide with more steel. Its a bit untidy looking but its on there solid right into the block. What i wanted was a hollow tube to fit but nothing around suitable. May go down that route or could get somthing bespoke made up i suppose.

View attachment 769293

It isnt a great fit to spring but a definate improvement. Ill take sliding with some resistance over a few mm loose.

I filed a few areas and polished the sleeve and washer as that wasnt free spinning (guide steps up in OD towards the block) Its fine now. So not pretty but im confident it will hold up without issue.

Below is first setup to try with the longer spring.

View attachment 769295

The comp tube needs deburring and cleaning next as its got some razor sharp cut outs.
Click to expand...
Brilliant write up and photos 🙂👍
 
Foxhound71 said:
Question please.

I have a Mk6 according to the serial number being ZE.

But, the TW Chambers diagram only shows the massive metal top hat in the Mk7.

I ordered the mk 6 main spring according to the TW C diagram and its far too long, about 11 inches. So I am wondering if I have a Mk7 rear with a Mk6 front?

TWC say that "The MS030 is supposed to fit both the Mk6 and Mk7 BUT it turns out there are two MK7s, the ‘Early’ and ‘Late’ models. The ‘Late’ Meteor uses the MS005 which is shorter in length".

How do I know which mine might be? The existing spring has been badly cut down to size so using it as an example is risky. I could use the measurements from this thread of course....

Anyway, any thoughts please?
Click to expand...

Sorry i missed this. Hmmm I really wouldnt know exactly how to know what rifle you have and what the correct spring is. Found the serial numbers confusing on these. How does your meteor shoot on the cut down spring?
 
No
Backgardenplinker said:
Sorry i missed this. Hmmm I really wouldnt know exactly how to know what rifle you have and what the correct spring is. Found the serial numbers confusing on these. How does your meteor shoot on the cut down spring?
Click to expand...
No problem!

Badly. The end has not been flattened amd smoothed. However, I have now ordered springs from TWC for Mk6 and Mk7....they are both way too long according to the existing spring, and the measurements of your spring.
 
Foxhound71 said:
No

No problem!

Badly. The end has not been flattened amd smoothed. However, I have now ordered springs from TWC for Mk6 and Mk7....they are both way too long according to the existing spring, and the measurements of your spring.
Click to expand...

Ahh.. well with the two springs you can play around. Fit them full length for bench mark and remove coils till required? Thats what i would do. Removing the weighty top hat and sleeving the piston allong with properly finished spring ends should have it smoother with less recoil 👍
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top