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Bolt removal suggestions.

zx6fighter said:
Yeah mate, it's an M6, problem is it spinning really easy, and it's in a recess so I can't get hold of the head. If I could stop it spinning I would definitely drill the head off.👍
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Bugger... what about dremelling a couple of flats on the head to get an 8mm open ended spanner on then drill it off 🤔
Be a shame to damage the guard
 
Right, I have a plan🤣
Turned up something with a tight fit on the head, use the bit of retainer, and I've now tapped it onto the head of the bolt,
Time for coffee now while the retainer sets, then I'm going to try drilling down through the center.
If it don't work, I'm gonna have to get a 14mm hole saw.

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How about dremellling a slot into the side of the head so a blade screwdriver or old hacksaw is a tight fit to stop the head spinning and then drill through the head of the hex, A2 is moderate strength stainless so slow and gentle should work
 
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zx6fighter said:
Right, I have a plan🤣
Turned up something with a tight fit on the head, use the bit of retainer, and I've now tapped it onto the head of the bolt,
Time for coffee now while the retainer sets, then I'm going to try drilling down through the center.
If it don't work, I'm gonna have to get a 14mm hole saw.

View attachment 961024View attachment 961025
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Market it but get a patent applied for first ;) . Well done for getting it off .
 
The stub of the bolt came out easy enough, probably the Heat and the vibration broke it free.
Had a soldering iron in the brass insert for about 15 minutes, the bloody thing is still spinning.
 
OldStock said:
Could you pin it below the bolt depth?
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Yeah, I'll figure something out, that's a job for another day. I'm thinking I might drill a small hole down the side of the insert at the top, squirt in some thin Super Glue and hopefully it will trickle around.

At least I got the cover off. 👍
 
zx6fighter said:
Yeah, I'll figure something out, that's a job for another day. I'm thinking I might drill a small hole down the side of the insert at the top, squirt in some thin Super Glue and hopefully it will trickle around.

At least I got the cover off. 👍
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Why not drill an 1/8 ( 3.2 mm) hole through the housing & into the insert , then a dab of JB Weld on a length of 1/8" high tensile wire & make a permanent locking bar for the insert ?
" Super glue" has zero/ zilch/ nada shear strength.
 
@chouchin66 Yes, I would have crossed drilled it and pinned it, but I have no access with the timing belt in place, and at the moment I don't want to take the timing belt off.
Plenty of meat around the insert, I could drill bigger holes down the side of the insert and use JB weld 👍
 
Heat plastic around insert with heat gun (not a flame) until it softens. Then using 2 locking pliers (mole grip type) clamp at 2 positions 90 degrees to each other to form a square.
If plastic is hot enough it will squeeze the insert tight again, just cool with cold water before removing pliers.
 
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zx6fighter said:
The stub of the bolt came out easy enough, probably the Heat and the vibration broke it free.
Had a soldering iron in the brass insert for about 15 minutes, the bloody thing is still spinning.
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They not be the ultrasonic type and may be part of the injection moulding process .


You can get threaded inserts that you could epoxy in, Just made sure you don’t get it on the internal threads .

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You could possibly fit a new one that expands when the bolt goes in .

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  • Used after the moulding process in thermoplastics, thermoset and other hard plastics
  • Provide strong, corrosion-resistant, reuseable threads
  • Simple, press-in installation into drilled or moulded holes of specified size (see individual product Information)
  • Slotted insert compresses slightly allowing the insert to be easily pushed into the mounting hole
  • Insertion of the screw expands the insert giving a self-locking action
  • Sharp diamond knurls bite into the plastic providing resistance to torque and pull-out loads
  • Mating screw should fully penetrate the insert to achieve full expansion
  • Flange head prevents direct contact of insert with mating parts
  • Flange head can be mounted on the blind side for through holes adding greater strength for tensile loads.
 
zx6fighter said:
@chouchin66 Yes, I would have crossed drilled it and pinned it, but I have no access with the timing belt in place, and at the moment I don't want to take the timing belt off.
Plenty of meat around the insert, I could drill bigger holes down the side of the insert and use JB weld 👍
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If not a cast/ pot metal housing, could you " stake" it with a flat punch, like you'd secure a front sight in it's transverse dovetail ?
 
Sorry late Ive done a few of these covers and air box coves that have the same problem .
first thing i always try is remove all the other bolts then cut down allen key iand put it in a drill . then i spin the bolt which spins the insert . this creats friction and heat which melts the plastic around it . then i let it cool and the insert normal resets .
this can also be use to remove the insert by spinning it and pulling the cover . cover off grad the insert with grips and undo the bolt .
Then there are different types you can fit with a good epoxy
some of the ones i use in wood and plastics
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