Air Arms 510-R - 1st stage trigger

[Rhys Ent]

Merry Xmas to you all,

I am sure my question is a simple one. I purchased a little used 510-R that has not had more than one tin of pellets through it to date. The first stage feels very long. I tried adjusting at the club and after dialling out, I lost any feel on the 2nd stage. It is not like any other AA I have shot. A friend brought his same model 510 in to compare. His 1st and 2nd stages feel 'normal'.

I removed the stock and trigger unit face plate as per the images attached. Is there a spring missing? There is a mark on the trigger face that looks like there may have been one?


View attachment 870455

The video clip, if it plays,is the movement prior to cocking. Post-cocking, it reduces, but is very excessive.

Many thanks,
Rhys

 

[nevadacowboy]

AIR ARMS TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT FOR THE MODEL S400, S500, S410, S510 and HFT500.​

SAFETY WARNING:​

-ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR RIFLE AND MAGAZINE ARE UNLOADED BEFORE WORKING ON IT.

-CHECK THE BREECH AND BARREL ARE EMPTY.

-NEVER POINT IT AT ANYONE, EVEN IF UNLOADED.

-TEST FIRE ONLY IN A SAFE DIRECTION! EVEN THE BLAST OF HIGH PRESSURE AIR COMING FROM FIRING AN UNLOADED RIFLE CAN DO DAMAGE.

TRIGGER ADJUSTMENTS:​

Tools needed:

– 2.5mm Allen key for screw A

– 1.5mm Allen key for screws B and C

Picture 1. Screws A, B and C for trigger adjustment. [Picture from the Airarms S400 manual]
The Airarms S400/410/500/510 trigger has 3 adjuster screws designated A, B, and C in the picture above.

Screw (A) is located in front of the trigger guard and adjusts the weight of pull. Turn it clockwise to increase weight.




When you turn this screw clockwise too much the rifle won’t fire as the spring that sits under this screw becomes coil-bound. But what will probably happen more often is that the screw is turned counter-clockwise too much. Most shooters will want to lighten the trigger pull and then the screw will fall out. As screw A is not a big screw you’ll need to get on all fours and look like a fool to try to find the screw between dust and debris on the floor.

Screw (B) is the front screw located in the trigger blade. It adjusts the first stage (and also total length of trigger travel). Turn screw (B) clockwise to reduce travel.

Screw (C) is the rearmost screw in the trigger blade. It adjusts the second stage by changing the sear engagement distance (how much the both sears overlap each other when the 1st stage is taken up). If the first stage screw (B) is incorrectly set, adjusting screw (C) will have no effect.

TO ADJUST THE TRIGGER​

When you only want to increase or reduce the trigger pull weight a little bit you only need to adjust screw (A). Screw it clockwise for a heavier trigger pull and counter clockwise for a lighter pull. You cannot go wrong with this screw. Adjust it in and out as you like, you will see it is easy to get back to the desired or original setting.

Adjusting the 1st and 2nd stage of the trigger is where it gets more difficult as each of the individual screw settings will have an effect on ALL of the settings for weight and length and sear engagement. In other words: when you adjust screw B it will have an effect on the settings of screw C and vice versa.

To properly adjust the trigger first thing to do is to set the trigger to go off on the first stage only. You will feel no 2nd stage.

1. Do this by first screwing the 2nd stage adjuster (C) counter-clockwise and well out.
2. Then set the 1st stage for desired weight with screw (A) and for 1st stage length with screw (B) to your preference.
3. Then slowly turn the 2nd stage screw (C) clockwise until you can just feel the second stage when you pull the trigger. Then give it a further eighth of a turn clockwise for a very light second stage (this may be unsafe!). For a good safe trigger with little or no creep give it a quarter turn or give it a full half turn for a very safe “hunting” trigger.

The final adjustment must always be on the 2nd stage screw (C) as adjusting any of the other screws will change the settings of the first stage and trigger pull.

Make sure to keep your trigger safe. The trigger should ALWAYS return to it’s original forward start position when you have taken up the first stage and then decided not to shoot and let go of the trigger. When your trigger does not return all the way to the front it ‘hangs’. And there it hangs in a dangerous position where it may fire by the lightest bump or touch. Test your newly adjusted trigger by bumping it on the floor while cocked. Do this with a cocked rifle. Also do the bump test after you have taken the trigger up to the first stage but haven not fired it. Do these tests 3 times. Better safe than sorry!

What is inside the Air Arms trigger?​

2. Inside the Airarms trigger
The picture above shows an older type Air Arms S400 series trigger. The older types have a trigger blade that freely moves back and forth before reaching the 1st stage. Newer rifles have an extra spring that takes up this free movement.

The older triggers have the rubber o-rings that keep the sears in position on their pins. Changing these o-rings for small washers can give the trigger a better ‘feel’ when done correctly. I have used small brass washers in 3mm (for top pin) and 2mm (for two bottom pins) internal diameter. Put a washer on each side of the sear, top and bottom side, so they lift the sears off the housing. This will reduce the friction between the sear and the trigger housing. Newer Airarms rifles do not need this modification.

I’m not a fan of polishing trigger sears. It is easily done wrong or too much. It may also wear through the surface hardening of the sears. This will then result in much quicker wear of the sear surface and possible unsafe triggers.

Polishing the tops of the set screws is a safer option but I have never felt the need to do that. A properly set up 1st and 2nd stage is all you need. These trigger are really very good when setup in the right way.

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[Rhys Ent]

AIR ARMS TRIGGER ADJUSTMENT FOR THE MODEL S400, S500, S410, S510 and HFT500.​

SAFETY WARNING:​

-ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR RIFLE AND MAGAZINE ARE UNLOADED BEFORE WORKING ON IT.

-CHECK THE BREECH AND BARREL ARE EMPTY.

-NEVER POINT IT AT ANYONE, EVEN IF UNLOADED.

-TEST FIRE ONLY IN A SAFE DIRECTION! EVEN THE BLAST OF HIGH PRESSURE AIR COMING FROM FIRING AN UNLOADED RIFLE CAN DO DAMAGE.

TRIGGER ADJUSTMENTS:​

Tools needed:

– 2.5mm Allen key for screw A

– 1.5mm Allen key for screws B and C

Picture 1. Screws A, B and C for trigger adjustment. [Picture from the Airarms S400 manual]
The Airarms S400/410/500/510 trigger has 3 adjuster screws designated A, B, and C in the picture above.

Screw (A) is located in front of the trigger guard and adjusts the weight of pull. Turn it clockwise to increase weight.




When you turn this screw clockwise too much the rifle won’t fire as the spring that sits under this screw becomes coil-bound. But what will probably happen more often is that the screw is turned counter-clockwise too much. Most shooters will want to lighten the trigger pull and then the screw will fall out. As screw A is not a big screw you’ll need to get on all fours and look like a fool to try to find the screw between dust and debris on the floor.

Screw (B) is the front screw located in the trigger blade. It adjusts the first stage (and also total length of trigger travel). Turn screw (B) clockwise to reduce travel.

Screw (C) is the rearmost screw in the trigger blade. It adjusts the second stage by changing the sear engagement distance (how much the both sears overlap each other when the 1st stage is taken up). If the first stage screw (B) is incorrectly set, adjusting screw (C) will have no effect.

TO ADJUST THE TRIGGER​

When you only want to increase or reduce the trigger pull weight a little bit you only need to adjust screw (A). Screw it clockwise for a heavier trigger pull and counter clockwise for a lighter pull. You cannot go wrong with this screw. Adjust it in and out as you like, you will see it is easy to get back to the desired or original setting.

Adjusting the 1st and 2nd stage of the trigger is where it gets more difficult as each of the individual screw settings will have an effect on ALL of the settings for weight and length and sear engagement. In other words: when you adjust screw B it will have an effect on the settings of screw C and vice versa.

To properly adjust the trigger first thing to do is to set the trigger to go off on the first stage only. You will feel no 2nd stage.

1. Do this by first screwing the 2nd stage adjuster (C) counter-clockwise and well out.
2. Then set the 1st stage for desired weight with screw (A) and for 1st stage length with screw (B) to your preference.
3. Then slowly turn the 2nd stage screw (C) clockwise until you can just feel the second stage when you pull the trigger. Then give it a further eighth of a turn clockwise for a very light second stage (this may be unsafe!). For a good safe trigger with little or no creep give it a quarter turn or give it a full half turn for a very safe “hunting” trigger.

The final adjustment must always be on the 2nd stage screw (C) as adjusting any of the other screws will change the settings of the first stage and trigger pull.

Make sure to keep your trigger safe. The trigger should ALWAYS return to it’s original forward start position when you have taken up the first stage and then decided not to shoot and let go of the trigger. When your trigger does not return all the way to the front it ‘hangs’. And there it hangs in a dangerous position where it may fire by the lightest bump or touch. Test your newly adjusted trigger by bumping it on the floor while cocked. Do this with a cocked rifle. Also do the bump test after you have taken the trigger up to the first stage but haven not fired it. Do these tests 3 times. Better safe than sorry!

What is inside the Air Arms trigger?​

2. Inside the Airarms trigger
The picture above shows an older type Air Arms S400 series trigger. The older types have a trigger blade that freely moves back and forth before reaching the 1st stage. Newer rifles have an extra spring that takes up this free movement.

The older triggers have the rubber o-rings that keep the sears in position on their pins. Changing these o-rings for small washers can give the trigger a better ‘feel’ when done correctly. I have used small brass washers in 3mm (for top pin) and 2mm (for two bottom pins) internal diameter. Put a washer on each side of the sear, top and bottom side, so they lift the sears off the housing. This will reduce the friction between the sear and the trigger housing. Newer Airarms rifles do not need this modification.

I’m not a fan of polishing trigger sears. It is easily done wrong or too much. It may also wear through the surface hardening of the sears. This will then result in much quicker wear of the sear surface and possible unsafe triggers.

Polishing the tops of the set screws is a safer option but I have never felt the need to do that. A properly set up 1st and 2nd stage is all you need. These trigger are really very good when setup in the right way.

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Get started

Thanks for the advice Nevada, I will follow and see what results I get. Where you state below:

The older types have a trigger blade that freely moves back and forth before reaching the 1st stage. Newer rifles have an extra spring that takes up this free movement.

Does this imply I am missing a spring to take up the excessive movement?
All the best

 

[rockdrill]

I am sure my question is a simple one. I purchased a little used 510-R that has not had more than one tin of pellets through it to date. The first stage feels very long. I tried adjusting at the club and after dialling out, I lost any feel on the 2nd stage.

The witness mark on the front face of your trigger blade is not from a spring, it is caused by the tip of the 'free play screw' as arrowed in the image below:

Your rifle appears to be either missing this screw or it is fully retracted giving the long first stage. If the screw is present you need to remove the trigger guard, the weight adjuster screw and spring to access it and adjust to your preference.

When you dialled down the first stage, I am guessing you adjusted the front screw in the trigger blade (B) in the image below) inwards to do this. If that is the case you will lose the second stage point. Being a true two stage trigger where the first stage is actually altering the sear engagement you need to achieve a balance between the first and second stage adjustment screws to keep the correct feel. So if you wind in the first stage adjustment you also need to wind in the second stage screw (C as below) to maintain the feel of the release point.

The free play in the trigger blade when un-cocked is a perfectly normal function of this trigger design and as is mentioned in @nevadacowboy's post above, the early models showed this. Now some didn't like having a floppy bit and whinged long enough about it that Air Arms appeased them by adding what I term the 'stupid spring' as indicated below:

This acts to hold the trigger blade forward at all times, so why do I call it the 'stupid spring' well first by adding that spring it adds extra weight to the trigger release, which cannot be dialled out, second it can mask a bad trigger set up where there is insufficient pressure being applied by the actual weight adjuster to return the sears to full engagement if a shot is not taken. This can leave the rifle in a dangerous condition where a bump can cause it to fire unexpectedly, something that a true two stage trigger correctly set up does not allow.

When I have been asked to set up 400 Series triggers, if this spring is fitted I advise the owner it is best removed, they are surprised at how much better the trigger is without this spring.

As it isn't present on your rifle I would personally leave it out.

 

[Rhys Ent]

The witness mark on the front face of your trigger blade is not from a spring, it is caused by the tip of the 'free play screw' as arrowed in the image below:

View attachment 870681

Your rifle appears to be either missing this screw or it is fully retracted giving the long first stage. If the screw is present you need to remove the trigger guard, the weight adjuster screw and spring to access it and adjust to your preference.

When you dialled down the first stage, I am guessing you adjusted the front screw in the trigger blade (B) in the image below) inwards to do this. If that is the case you will lose the second stage point. Being a true two stage trigger where the first stage is actually altering the sear engagement you need to achieve a balance between the first and second stage adjustment screws to keep the correct feel. So if you wind in the first stage adjustment you also need to wind in the second stage screw (C as below) to maintain the feel of the release point.

The free play in the trigger blade when un-cocked is a perfectly normal function of this trigger design and as is mentioned in @nevadacowboy's post above, the early models showed this. Now some didn't like having a floppy bit and whinged long enough about it that Air Arms appeased them by adding what I term the 'stupid spring' as indicated below:

View attachment 870683

This acts to hold the trigger blade forward at all times, so why do I call it the 'stupid spring' well first by adding that spring it adds extra weight to the trigger release, which cannot be dialled out, second it can mask a bad trigger set up where there is insufficient pressure being applied by the actual weight adjuster to return the sears to full engagement if a shot is not taken. This can leave the rifle in a dangerous condition where a bump can cause it to fire unexpectedly, something that a true two stage trigger correctly set up does not allow.

When I have been asked to set up 400 Series triggers, if this spring is fitted I advise the owner it is best removed, they are surprised at how much better the trigger is without this spring.

As it isn't present on your rifle I would personally leave it out.

Thanks for responding Rockdrill, well explained.

Firstly, there is no pre-tensioning spring and I can live with the loose swing pre-cocking.
Secondly, yes I did adjust screw 'B' and lose second release.
Thirdly, I can clearly see the pointed grub screw you have arrowed. This is not present in my image, so I will remove the trigger plate and guard and check if it is there. The witness mark rightly highlights it has been at some point. I am 99.9% sure it has not been taken apart prior to my observation. Either way, if it is missing I will need to replace and it should then sort the 'cocked' long first stage.

All the best

 

[Rhys Ent]

Thanks for all the info Gents.
The grubscrew highlighted by Rockdrill was fully wound in and very loose - maybe a worn tap. The witness mark shows it has made previous contact, so perhaps being loose it has rattled back in? I have added a touch of threadlock, re-adjusted everything and she is working nice and crisp - a result

 

[Mark Newbie]

When I swapped out the AA trigger on mine for a Rowan one I found it best to adjust the new trigger with that cover plate removed so you can see clearly the effects on the seats and adjust accordingly.

As said above it's about getting the right balance and so each time you adjust the first stage you also have to adjust the second to get it to where you need it.