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9015 Anschutz HP BR50 techie question please......

Stix1953

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Hi All...a question for you please!
I have just purchased a 9015 Anschutz HP BR50 & I've decided to fit a quick fill adapter to the air cylinder.
However...as it stands at the moment the air cylinder is just about the same length as the barrel. As I understand it once the quick fill adapter is fitted it will then protrude about an inch or so beyond the barrel. Has anyone had any experience with fitting one & if so will this affect the harmonics in any way?
Thank you....
KR
Stix
 
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I don't think it will affect it, but a muzzle brake of some kind should sort it out if you're worried
 
Hi, thanks for your reply....the barrel is not threaded & I'd rather leave the barrel as it is, just wondered if anyone had any experience fitting a quick fill adapter...
Thank you!
Regards,
Stix
 
Hi jesim1, thanks for your reply....
Looking at the Rattworks website they say that "We do not advise any shroud or air stripper is fitted or used for BR use, the standard barrel sleeve on the 9015 helps with any barrel harmonic which is more noticeable for BR use, the ability to add/remove mass to this sleeve is more beneficial for BR discipline tuning than any shroud or stripper"
All a matter of opinion of course but I really don't want to add a shroud or get the barrel screw cut so.....thanks for your answer, it is appreciated!
KR
Stix
 
1000007411.jpgThis is what is on mine and is held on by a grub screw it was on it when I bought it from it's previous owner. It's not a striper just a bit stainless steel tube machined to fit.
 
I will add my own experience here.
I had to cut that shroud back 95mm to reach the actual barrel muzzle in order to repair the dodgy machining job that Anschutz provided.
I made up a small outer sleeve that slipped nicely over the now short looking barrel (I actually made 2 so I could alter the gap between them or fit them both back to back, etc). Fitted 2 set screws to each sleeve to tighten it to the barrel. The idea was to add some weight back to the barrel end.
Tried that idea out and nope...did nothing either better or worse.
Tossed the sleeve weight idea out and had another think about this.
I had noticed that the 2 screws in that front barrel band are orientated to push upwards against the barrel to shove it firmly up against the top of the barrel band.
I had already tried a free floating idea (by removing the 2 screws plus the plastic inset that is inside the barrel band), and there was quite a difference in POI at the target. With the barrel band screws fitted the rifle shot way high...there was a lot of upwards stress on the barrel.
So with the 2 screws and insert removed I first tried putting a small set screw in to the top of the barrel band. It had to be tiny as there is not a lot of meat there to tap a thread into. Refitted the plastic insert and gently tightened the new top set screw, then tightened the 2 original screws.
Success. It shot like a new one. There was no need to adjust the scope as the POI now stayed in very nearly the same place as the free floated barrel had shot to. My scores went up to a best of 100.7 (and most other scores were 100.4 - 100.6 area).
Then during a shoot all was looking good with lots of centres and suddenly on the last two targets...a 9 and the next shot a 9.
That tiny set screw had come loose. The thread in the barrel band had started to strip (well it was tiny set screw).
Finally I have put a thin brass shim up at the top of the barrel band insert. Yes, it was a right pig to slide the barrel band back on to the barrel as it was now quite a tight fit.
But that was all that was needed. That 0.06mm shim has put enough downwards pressure on to the barrel that with the 2 original set screws tightened the rifle still shoots to the same POI as before.
The barrel is no longer forced upwards. It sits in a more 'relaxed' neutral position and my scores are once again back to the 100+ area.
Photos show the sleeve idea (barrel weight) I tried, and the barrel band top screw idea.
I have left the wee screw in the top although it does nothing now. I put a drop of Loctite on it just to hold it there so there was no empty hole. You cant see the shim as it's up there between the plastic insert and top of the barrel band.
If I ever decide to go further I will weld a thicker piece of aluminium to the barrel band at 10-o-clock and 2-o-clock position so that they don't interfere with the scope objective. Then I can fit bigger set screws and have the barrel held nicely at 4 positions. But will need to learn how to do a home based job of anodising (or maybe just plain old black paint).

Sleeve.JPG

BarrelBand Screw.JPG
 
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Hi, thanks for your reply....the barrel is not threaded & I'd rather leave the barrel as it is, just wondered if anyone had any experience fitting a quick fill adapter...
Thank you!
Regards,
Stix
I have a John Harris tuned one, with quickfil and a JH muzzle brake

WhatsApp Image 2025-06-30 at 19.36.16_3e2fd567.webp
 
Hi to all who have replied....thank you for your input, it is appreciated!.....much food for thought!
KR
Stix
 
Hi jesim1, thanks for your reply....
Looking at the Rattworks website they say that "We do not advise any shroud or air stripper is fitted or used for BR use, the standard barrel sleeve on the 9015 helps with any barrel harmonic which is more noticeable for BR use, the ability to add/remove mass to this sleeve is more beneficial for BR discipline tuning than any shroud or stripper"
All a matter of opinion of course but I really don't want to add a shroud or get the barrel screw cut so.....thanks for your answer, it is appreciated!
KR
Stix
Hi I have a Rat works tuned 9015 and they not only fitted a quick fill but also a Steyr air stripper. I didn't put any special request that is just how it came with a shroud over the whole kit and caboodle.
 
Hi I have a Rat works tuned 9015 and they not only fitted a quick fill but also a Steyr air stripper. I didn't put any special request that is just how it came with a shroud over the whole kit and caboodle.
Thanks for that, it's appreciated! 👍
KR
Stix
 
Look up Matt on Airability, he uses a moderator on both his 9015 and seems to work for him
My Steyr .177 Challenge shoots happily with or without a moderator on it, just the POA that needs adjusting
 
In any case, I would always lengthen the barrel jacket of the 9015 HP Action instead of shortening it.

I would try a tube from MEC or Original 9015 One.

So-called tube or barrel sleeve at the muzzle end of their rifles. While it often serves to reduce barrel vibration and adjust balance, there is another, more advanced purpose.

One important reason for adding a tube is to create a defined and stable environment for the pellet immediately after it exits the barrel.

When a pellet leaves the barrel, it is highly sensitive to any turbulence, crosswind, or asymmetrical air pressure. Even tiny disturbances can affect its trajectory.

The tube acts as a transitional air channel, allowing the pellet to travel its first few millimeters in a controlled and repeatable airflow environment.

This helps ensure that the pellet is not disturbed by rapidly changing external conditions or the turbulent air caused by the rifle’s own muzzle blast.

In other words, the tube gives the pellet a clean, consistent aerodynamic “launch window”, which supports stable flight from the very beginning.

Additional functions of the tube may include, damping barrel vibrations (barrel harmonics tuning).

Shifting the rifle’s center of gravity (balance optimization).

Acting as a mounting base for accessories like air strippers or barrel weights

Under no circumstances would I attach the barrel to more than one location.

Free floating is a must here. Anything else will lead to problems sooner or later.

Regards
Daniel
 
In any case, I would always lengthen the barrel jacket of the 9015 HP Action instead of shortening it.

I would try a tube from MEC or Original 9015 One.

So-called tube or barrel sleeve at the muzzle end of their rifles. While it often serves to reduce barrel vibration and adjust balance, there is another, more advanced purpose.

One important reason for adding a tube is to create a defined and stable environment for the pellet immediately after it exits the barrel.

When a pellet leaves the barrel, it is highly sensitive to any turbulence, crosswind, or asymmetrical air pressure. Even tiny disturbances can affect its trajectory.

The tube acts as a transitional air channel, allowing the pellet to travel its first few millimeters in a controlled and repeatable airflow environment.

This helps ensure that the pellet is not disturbed by rapidly changing external conditions or the turbulent air caused by the rifle’s own muzzle blast.

In other words, the tube gives the pellet a clean, consistent aerodynamic “launch window”, which supports stable flight from the very beginning.

Additional functions of the tube may include, damping barrel vibrations (barrel harmonics tuning).

Shifting the rifle’s center of gravity (balance optimization).

Acting as a mounting base for accessories like air strippers or barrel weights

Under no circumstances would I attach the barrel to more than one location.

Free floating is a must here. Anything else will lead to problems sooner or later.

Regards
Daniel
Hi Daniel....your contribution is much appreciated, many thanks!
KR
Stix
 
.



The tube acts as a transitional air channel, allowing the pellet to travel its first few millimeters in a controlled and repeatable airflow environment.

This helps ensure that the pellet is not disturbed by rapidly changing external conditions or the turbulent air caused by the rifle’s own muzzle blast.

In other words, the tube gives the pellet a clean, consistent aerodynamic “launch window”, which supports stable flight from the very beginning.
I'm not sure about the sleeve allowing a pellet to travel a few millimetres in a controlled and repeatable airflow when the compressed turbulent air is all around the pellet after leaving the same barrel that the pellet has
 
I'm not sure about the sleeve allowing a pellet to travel a few millimetres in a controlled and repeatable airflow when the compressed turbulent air is all around the pellet after leaving the same barrel that the pellet has
Believe it or not.
But it's a fact. Anschütz conducted a test and found that shortening the barrel jacket reduces precision.
The thing is, without the tube, the air would still adjust. With the tube, however, it works more consistently.
 
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It may be right about the longer shroud, and I won't argue.
But I had to cut mine short to allow me to true the face of the muzzle after the shocking job that Anschutz did of it.
I have tried free floating, and my (short) barrel likes to be held firmly.
The rifle now shoots 100+ regularly so I (probably) won't mess about with it anymore.
I do only shoot indoors at 25 yards though, and am unlikely to change from that. Maybe at a longer distance or outdoors I might indeed need a longer shroud.
 
Yes, that's how I understood it too.
Indoors are a completely different story than outdoors.
My comments have context: different weather, wind, temperatures, and shooting positions.

I would have simply removed the barrel shroud completely and made a new one. Or I would have reattached the old one after the work was done.

But, If it works for you now, though, everything's fine.
 
I just got rough!
Bunged the barrel in the lathe, cut off the extra piece of shroud, and faced off the offending muzzle job at an 11º angle (concave) because I've read that 11º is the magic angle for a muzzle.
I should mention that as an experiment I have already tried free floating the barrel, and also tried removing the barrel band plastic insert and instead filled that space with RTV silicon. Let it set for a few days and went shooting.
Nothing spectacular happened. It shot OK, but not quite as tight a test group as when the barrel is firmly clamped.
But that may all just be a 'thing' that my barrel does. It likes being held tight. Might all change too when I change to another pellet type.
One day I will get another barrel band and modify it to hold 4 tension screws so that I can add pressure in from 4 directions.
Just to see what happens.
Edit: For those who don't know...the 9015 shroud is glued on to the barrel. Or rather...the barrel is pressed into the shroud with great lashings of hot glue. When it's all set the excess glue around the muzzle is hacked off, by hand, with an end-mill.
Pretty rough job it was too. The shroud covers the entire length of the barrel.
 
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