It was entirely MY own fault, bought a lane regulator off here set at 94 bar, installed it, bypassed the fitted belleville regulator, attached the test pressure gauge to the gun, attached the cylinder and instead of getting 94 bar, it tool the whole lot, luckily I had only filled it to 150bar not 200. Didn't realise I had caused a problem until I took a first shot at the range, I could hear the difference.
So I knew it needed a new breech seal +++. On inspection I've found a few problems, the ali plate with the angled seat that keeps the air in the plentium looks like it was machined with a brick, honestly using a glass it looks like a record with all the grooves.
I've also found an o-ring that was obviously pinched during the build.
Not the quality I was led to believe when buying a Weihrauch, but It gives me something to fettle with, learning as I go.
Hi, lots of things to cover here buddy.
Firstly, the Lane regulator is an effective upgrade as long as other things are changed to ensure the best performance consistency and efficiency wise. The best option is to fit it in an altered cylinder end which is bored out to 22mm diameter and 22mm depth. Prechamber size is of paramount importance or the regulator won’t always fully equalise. If you’ve left the old insides in place and just removed the ball bearing from inside the inlet/regulator valve then you’ll need to back out the regulator adjuster sufficiently. I don’t know the exact distance as I’ve replaced the whole regulator assembly in ours, you’ll have to experiment. You can get replacement prechambers, but you’ll need to restrict the volume to about 25% of its original size. Leave the valve size as it was from the factory. My lads 20 carbine with a Lane intube regulator does about eight mags with a spread of 8fps with pellets out of the tin. Use a Lane five bar test to establish the most appropriate regulator setting.
The factory regulators are actually very good, as long as they’re set up correctly and you don’t overfill the cylinder. Aftermarket regulators just allow higher fill pressures and increased shot count.
Leak wise, some of it has been covered. So let’s deal with the inlet/regulator valve first, if either of those O rings (outside and inside) have failed then you’ll experience a leak through the breath hole that’s situated at the front of the block. O ring between inlet/regulator valve and block will also cause a leak through this vent hole. The regulator sleeve and regulator piston O rings will leak out of the stock screw hole or regulator adjuster. The Belleville washers are only exposed to atmosphere, the white blanking plug just keeps dust out. If the valve block O ring fails then you’ll get a leak out of the block where the two parts join. If the valve isn’t sealing then you’ll get a leak down the barrel with the side lever closed. The original valve block O rings from the factory are oversized and crush fit 12 x 1.2mm, this is unnecessary and should be replaced with a 12 x 1mm.
Regarding the valve, the seat on the valve blocks can sometimes lightly mark, this can be overcome by polishing the valve seat uniformly. To do this I use a piece of Delrin I’ve machined to the same angle as the seat, I put steristrip around the end then use Autosol to polish it. I then polish the valve by adding another small smear of Autosol and running the valve in the valve block seat. I’m sure HW100 Tuning did a video of this. I use a pillar drill to do this. Don’t overdo it, it only needs a quick polish. Once finished clean everything thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or brake cleaner.
Cylinder end leaks are generally down to poor filling practice, I’ve completed a cylinder repair stickie in the tech section.
Hi All,
Leaks on HW100 (HW110) cylinder seem to be a more common occurrence, as previously posted, this is often down to poor filling practice, along with dirt in the fill port and O rings degrading. In a nutshell, remove the fill probe from the air hose when inserting and removing it from the fill port.
First things first, assuming you’ve identified the source of the leak, make sure you remove
ALL the air from the cylinder prior to working on it. Use the decanting tool supplied with the rifle as above.
Leak identification is done by a nitrile glove secured over the...
Cylinder leaks can be fixed in virtually every situation by replacing the cylinder fill end O ring (26 x 2mm) and the valve O ring (3.15 x 1.8mm). Don’t attempt to replace the gauge O ring unless you have a means of removing the glass prior to unscrewing the gauge or the likelihood is you’ll break the face off it. Leaks from this location are very rare in any case, so replacing it as a matter of course is unnecessary.
The breech seal is only active during the firing cycle and a worn one can be detected as you’ll get a loud crack at the breech when you fire the gun, likewise you can put a tissue over the breech and it’ll get blown off when you fire the gun.
I hope this helps.
BM
