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the Daily hi thread
3D moderator internals possible?
- Thread starter GrandPA
- Start date
GrandPA
Member Extraordinaire
So must have proved to be no better? I wonder if they progressed to texture for directional flow control?
I have found in 3D it needed lots of supports during construction. having said that I have already incorporated extra supports in the form of felt\ foam supports to the exterior.
Have already created a third idea, in which as one of the components includes a standard support frame for the foam sleeve, to easly add to future designs.
Having said all that I have been using this as a means to pick up on my previous experience of Autocad.
I just cant bring myself to splurge on a decent 3D printer (that would be suitable for (hopefully) more items down the line)), to actually print off a few bits for testing, to find the failures, week spots.
Preview on Bambu-
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I haven't experimented with spirals, but if the angle of the spiral is decent (45% or better?) you might be able to print it vertically without supports.
Also, perhaps arrange for each part to be completed before moving on to the next part.
Unless you have an ultra fast printer, I think you'll find the print times in the preview are a tad on the optimistic side (depending on your nozzle size and layer hight).
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Ian
GrandPA
Member Extraordinaire
Hi I haven't adjusted anything on the printer side of things, it was just what loaded on the app when the object was imported.
Thank you for providing information on speed and angle, also like the tip of gyroid and no walls.
The good news is I have taken a leap and bought a printer, well Ive paid for it at this point in time.
Got a lot to learn which will keep me busy over these dark days. So all tips appreciated.
Although a lot of people print with PLA, I'd suggest using PETG. PETG is slightly more flexible than PLA, better at surviving changes in temperature and easier to sand down and then bring back the colour.The good news is I have taken a leap and bought a printer, well Ive paid for it at this point in time.
Got a lot to learn which will keep me busy over these dark days.
Also, on the design front, strength of a part is more down to the number of perimeters than the density of infill (I use gyroid - it's one of the infills where the nozzle doesn't cross over itself) and, sometimes, print a part upside down, maybe to avoid having to use supports.
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Ian
GrimSqueeker
Well-known member
I'm happy to offer my printer time if you wanted something printedThis is something I was thinking about myself the other day! I have ideas, but no printer, and no money to pay anyone who has one....
crissdee
Super member
Thanks, I was thinking of something along the lines of this;
www.thingiverse.com
but with more radial "discs" and a smaller bore, for the inside of my Stealth mod. It's late now, but tomorrow I'll pop it open and get some dimensions.
Logun Suppressor Interior by emmiambra
These Logun suppressors are prone to breaking if over tightened, also getting a knock etc can break the plastic interior. This was on my list to print a replacement part once I got a 3D printer... so here it is :D I think there is some legal who-ha about suppressors, their manufacture etc. This...
www.thingiverse.com
but with more radial "discs" and a smaller bore, for the inside of my Stealth mod. It's late now, but tomorrow I'll pop it open and get some dimensions.
BigGun1
New member
Tinkercad is OK, but if you can get your head around Autodesk Fusion it's got a lot more features and for home use you can get a free to use version.
Phantom Knight
Super member
I designed and printed from scratch.
There's a picture up in this section somewhere in another thread about moderators.
There's a picture up in this section somewhere in another thread about moderators.
GrandPA
Member Extraordinaire
Yes quickly moved to Fusion, much like the Autocad I used in the past.
First picture is earlier working on individual bits, the second is a picture of the Hexagon baffle printed with the Archimedes screw in one for better strength.
I have a working moderator with 2 wraps of felt around the baffle. Size wise it is the same size as the XLK, and only a single decibel lower in noise. Not been to the range with it yet to try in the open. Upto 15m it's as accurate at the XLK.
It's been a great project, but I have found little time for it as so many other ideas are in line for being printed
.
Also thank to the suggestion about fuzzy skin, a lot easier than trying to achieve a pattern on the screw faces.
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First picture is earlier working on individual bits, the second is a picture of the Hexagon baffle printed with the Archimedes screw in one for better strength.
I have a working moderator with 2 wraps of felt around the baffle. Size wise it is the same size as the XLK, and only a single decibel lower in noise. Not been to the range with it yet to try in the open. Upto 15m it's as accurate at the XLK.
It's been a great project, but I have found little time for it as so many other ideas are in line for being printed
.Also thank to the suggestion about fuzzy skin, a lot easier than trying to achieve a pattern on the screw faces.
.
Tricky-Dicky
Member Extraordinaire
All my silenced shrouds and mods use my own design 3D printed baffle system, they work very well.
Worth trying different materials too. I might have to try one made from PPA-CF for max ‘toughness’. The more rigid ASA printed internals were quieter than TPU; I thought that TPU (Bambulab’s TPU for AMS which is harder than normal TPU) would be a great material, it seems not.
