Walnut stock oil

pw2112 said:
I have just bought a walnut thumbhole stock for my AA S410 off the forum from Lampy (y)
I would like to show it some love before I swap it for the beech one my rifle is currently wearing
It's an Air Arms stock, will I be able to just apply some CCL oil or will it have a sealing coat on it that will have to be removed first. I'm happy to have a go at adding the CCL oil but I feel that removing a sealing product is beyond my skill levels!
Does anyone know what Air Arms finish their stocks with?
Thanks,
Paul
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my TX walnut stock came pretty much bone dry from new iam guessing AA are letting the buyer decide re. finish
 
pw2112 said:
I have just bought a walnut thumbhole stock for my AA S410 off the forum from Lampy (y)
I would like to show it some love before I swap it for the beech one my rifle is currently wearing
It's an Air Arms stock, will I be able to just apply some CCL oil or will it have a sealing coat on it that will have to be removed first. I'm happy to have a go at adding the CCL oil but I feel that removing a sealing product is beyond my skill levels!
Does anyone know what Air Arms finish their stocks with?
Thanks,
Paul
Click to expand...
My Air Arms S510 and and BSA R10 stocks are made by Minelli and all were very dry when new. I've used Walnut oil from two different suppliers and it just soaked in and made no difference even after 10 coats! I recently bought some CCL stock oil after seeing the pictures from @Dr B in this thread and what a difference, it actually starts to build up a proper finish. (y)
 
Trident93 said:
My Air Arms S510 and and BSA R10 stocks are made by Minelli and all were very dry when new. I've used Walnut oil from two different suppliers and it just soaked in and made no difference even after 10 coats! I recently bought some CCL stock oil after seeing the pictures from @Dr B in this thread and what a difference, it actually starts to build up a proper finish. (y)
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Did you just apply the oil to the stock or did you do some sort of preparation first?
 
Thanks, I've just bought a bottle CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil from Pets and Pastimes in Butt Lane, Stoke.
I'm going to apply some this afternoon and see how I get on...
 
pw2112 said:
Thanks, I've just bought a bottle CCL Gunstock Conditioning Oil from Pets and Pastimes in Butt Lane, Stoke.
I'm going to apply some this afternoon and see how I get on...
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It's a slow process, take your time and enjoy it! Think Zen. (y)
 
I recently had an AA400 stock for refinishing, it was in a dry condition and very dull. It responded very well to a few coats of artist grade refined linseed oil and the customer was well pleased. This linseed oil is refined to take out all the fatty acids which enable it to dry as quick as any other oil based product including most of the propriety ones which are linseed based and will not go gummy if too much applied even though it has no added driers like BLO.
 
Before I started, I removed the buttpad and the metal tube where the manometer sits, this was held in by a rubbery sealant type stuff. I guess I will need to re-apply something to stop it falling out before I fit the action to it. Any ideas as to what I should be using?
 
I’ve oiled a few of my previous stock’s but I’m leaving this one dry.
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Trident93 said:
My Air Arms S510 and and BSA R10 stocks are made by Minelli and all were very dry when new. I've used Walnut oil from two different suppliers and it just soaked in and made no difference even after 10 coats! I recently bought some CCL stock oil after seeing the pictures from @Dr B in this thread and what a difference, it actually starts to build up a proper finish. (y)
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To achieve an oil finish any number of coats of oil could be required, 30 coats is not unusual. Oil is applied to the wood up to when it will not absorb any more. It will then need the oil to harden off to allow polishing to begin. Rubbing when hardened with the palm of the hand will produce friction that produces the mirror shine providing the grain has been previously filled to provide an unblemished surface.
Full absorption must be reached and a period to allow the hardening process to complete is essential, anything else will not produce the traditional preservation and waterproof finish.
 
Ringokid said:
Hi what oil do people use on their walnut stocks I used to add a tiny amount of bisley gun oil back in the day so just curious as to what others do
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Knickersons walnut oil a little goes a long way
Work it in with palm of hand leave over night buff with a lint free cloth
 
Do you apply the Phillips English Oil to the checkering as well?
 
I use Liberon finishing oil on my stocks.
I tried Philips Walnut Oil, it didn't do as good a job as Liberon finishing oil.

I have never tried raw linseed on gun stocks, I seem to recall using it on my cricket bat.
 
Dr B said:
This is the first Tyrolean stock project the stockmaker did for me several years ago now. It's Grade 5 exhibition American black walnut. Prepped in a professional manner, grain sealed etc, and then the final finish built up with CCL - which is a BLO product. The BLO was applied traditionally - via hand-rubbing etc and built up over several coats.

Not an orange overly-shiny tinge in sight...........:ROFLMAO:

Over time the finish settled to a lovely matt sheen and I've yet to understand how this is suppossed to be 'inferior'. Its been out in all weathers and even has a small scratch on it that never even peirced the oil finish - showing that the BLO has penetrated really well. All I do is give it a wipe down after shoots and apply a new coat of CCL about once a year (twice if I feel like it). Since this one, I had another two done for the Carbine (posts to follow on soon).

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@Dr B This is exactly what I'm trying to do, absolutely stunning work my friend.

I've just bought the CCL stock finishing kit. Do you have any application advice for the conditioning oil?

Attached a pic of my current stock. It's not a bare stock and had an existing finish applied, but was uneven/worn in places. The gun is a Beretta DT10.

I've stripped off the gloss/shiny uneven finish using methalyted spirit, and now down to a smooth matte finish. There's plenty of colour in there, and so I don't think I need to use any of the red/alkanet oil, but unsure if I need to use any of the grain sealer first?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, you're clearly a master applicator!
 

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