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stove. wood burner ?

Willz22 said:
Mine is 40m2 down and 40m2 upstairs with the stairs being open in the living room so i will have no choice but to heat the whole house. Will 5kW fall short ?
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In practice you can't distribute the heat from most stoves evenly around the house so it's always going to be warmer in the room it's located in. My house was built in 1925 and it is big and draughty with high ceilings and I rarely run mine with more than the minimum amount of fuel bed during the day so t needs 2 or 3 smallish logs adding every 2 hours or so. It will eat 1 to 2 baskets of logs per day depending on what they are. If I switch to ovals (or even mix with them) I can leave it 2 to 3 hours in between smallish top ups.

I still use my gas CH to take the chill of the bedrooms when it's really cold (just isolate the rads in the living room). I still have a working open fire in one bedroom which is nice but it's a right feck on to light compared to the stove.

Anyway I would say if you go any bigger than 5kW it's going to be too much in the living room.
 
no country members said:
In practice you can't distribute the heat from most stoves evenly around the house so it's always going to be warmer in the room it's located in. My house was built in 1925 and it is big and draughty with high ceilings and I rarely run mine with more than the minimum amount of fuel bed during the day so t needs 2 or 3 smallish logs adding every 2 hours or so. It will eat 1 to 2 baskets of logs per day depending on what they are. If I switch to ovals (or even mix with them) I can leave it 2 to 3 hours in between smallish top ups.

I still use my gas CH to take the chill of the bedrooms when it's really cold (just isolate the rads in the living room). I still have a working open fire in one bedroom which is nice but it's a right feck on to light compared to the stove.

Anyway I would say if you go any bigger than 5kW it's going to be too much in the living room.
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Makes sense....I'll stick with 5kW cheers 👍
 
Our multi-fuel stove just recently arrived. It won't be getting used until our house remodel is complete, however, the mechanical target tree to the left of it will. ;)
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number10 said:
Logs even more expensive here at £160 for 1m3. We chopped most of our forests down years ago and the last remaining areas of ancient forests were used to build wooden ships for various sea battles. Electricity prices here are the highest in Europe as we have little hydro power and not enough nuclear, so relying on too much gas and importing electricity from France, Norway, and Benelux. Heat pumps, even though there are subsides to buy, are very expensive to run with the high electricity price, and most are air sourced which are not as efficient as ground sourced. In short we have had a short sighted energy policy.
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Here's an explanation of why the UK is were it is today:

 
Willz22 said:
Thanks. My gas fire does the job but lacking as my stairs are open in my living room so takes awhile to equalize and thats with my kitchen door closed.

I have access to scrap timber and broken non-treated pallets regularly from work, but i'd imagine 9kW takes a hell of a lot more fuel to keep it going too.

My aim is to gather as much wood as i can throughout the warmer seasons and process it ready for the winter without spending any money if possible. Im not really fussed as long as its considered safe to burn.


Mine is 40m2 down and 40m2 upstairs with the stairs being open in the living room so i will have no choice but to heat the whole house. Will 5kW fall short ?
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Hot air distribution will be an issue, many houses here is therefore built in one plane.

If they have two (or more) planes usually a log stove is located in central position downstairs and an air-air heat pump upstairs.
 
Blimey some of you are paying a lot for a 1m3 bag of wood. It must be kiln dried??

I can get hardwood for £75 a dumpy bag delivered!! Softwood for £65
 
Love my Henley wood Burner [multi fuel] and have stocked up good and proper for the winter, as everything else in this nation of ours prices are sky high but the greenies can keep their ideas I will keep using mine, Government don't like them as they can't control them as they can control Leckie and gas nothing better than a good fire IMHO
 
Martyn G said:
trouble is , if you dont know what brand of flue pipe it is your a bit stuffed , no flue brands are the same so wont fit together, i cant tell what brand it is from the pics , i would personaly take it through the roof, the right flashing on it you should be fine ,im a stove fitter so done a few metal roofs, just be wary of buying some bends that wont fit
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There's definitely no brand name on my flue or if there is it's extremely well hidden but i have spent a good deal of time searching the net & i am now 99.9% certain it is made by a company called Stovax,the indications are the 'twistlock' type joining system on them,it looks identical to mine & the Stovax clamps also look identical to mine,the first 2 pics are Stovax from the web showing the 'twistlock' joint & clamp & the other pic is my flue that i posted previously.

Winters up here are long & bad enough,not being able to work on any projects due to lack of heating is already driving me fookin nuts! 😭
 

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Well after months & months of searching i finally managed to source two 45 degree elbows (plus two extra straight sections should i need them) & all for the princely sum of 2 sika steaks,4 pheasant breasts,4 partridge breasts,2 goose breasts & 2 mallard breasts,my kinda deal!,delighted! 😁😎

All i need now is 3 more locking bands (as pictured),new glass & rope for the stove door & longer days & decent weather to refit it all.
 

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Zed1 said:
Well after months & months of searching i finally managed to source two 45 degree elbows (plus two extra straight sections should i need them) & all for the princely sum of 2 sika steaks,4 pheasant breasts,4 partridge breasts,2 goose breasts & 2 mallard breasts,my kinda deal!,delighted! 😁😎

All i need now is 3 more locking bands (as pictured),new glass & rope for the stove door & longer days & decent weather to refit it all.
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That looks exactly the same system as the twin wall flue I had installed just over 20 years ago (including the elbows for where it goes through the cavity wall). The SS has stayed bright as a button even though it's on the outside and the removeable access plate (also outside) for cleaning is really handy.

I originally wanted a brick chimney building but around 2002/3 all the brickies around here were so busy none of them were particularly interested as they had enough much easier work so the the stove installer said he could do the stainless steel solution for me. Went for that and knocked up an internal stud wall chimney breast. Turned out much cheaper than a brick chimney and looks every bit as good from the sofa! :LOL:
 
no country members said:
That looks exactly the same system as the twin wall flue I had installed just over 20 years ago (including the elbows for where it goes through the cavity wall). The SS has stayed bright as a button even though it's on the outside and the removeable access plate (also outside) for cleaning is really handy.

I originally wanted a brick chimney building but around 2002/3 all the brickies around here were so busy none of them were particularly interested as they had enough much easier work so the the stove installer said he could do the stainless steel solution for me. Went for that and knocked up an internal stud wall chimney breast. Turned out much cheaper than a brick chimney and looks every bit as good from the sofa! :LOL:
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Yea the stainless flue i have has stayed remarkably clean too,the bits i just acquired will clean up well (good enough for a stove in a shed anyway!),they've been lying in a loft in a garage for a good few years,the 4 inch ID is as rare as an honest politician!
 
Just a reminder. Stainless steel corrugated flue liner needs to be installed the right way up. There are direction arrows on the outside wall. Easy to overlook.
 
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