Webley and scott Vulcan

Ive just done a string of 5 rounds each, jsb 14.35g = 9.11 fpe, jts 16.08g = 9.65 fpe, rws 15.90g = 9.10 fpe. That might be a bit low for this rifle in .22 calibre. Though it hasn't been used for quite some time. I will be stripping and cleaning it later on, might even fit a Tinbum tuning kit ??.
Forgot to mention that the gap between the breach and fork is 0.006 th so I will try and see if i can shim it, or try bending the fork slightly.
 
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I think that once this is done it will be going up for sale if anyone is interested, I will be putting it up for sale on the forum. Its not that i don't like this webley vulcan, its just I can't use it due to a spinal injury that I have..
 
Just as an update to this thread, I have stripped the gun down so that i can replace some parts mainly the piston seal,breach seal.barrel pivot pin,and a new latch pin. Ive also ordered some .003th shim sheet that I might fit between the breach,and breach fork or I might just try the other method of putting the fork into a vice and apply light pressure until its a snug fit?. The main spring looks to be in good condition, though it does look quite small. Its 20mm od with 34 3.4mm coils, and approx 325mm long. The inside diameter of the piston is 20.8mm. Don't know if tinbum does a tune up kit for the webley and scott Vulcan mk2, I think he has an old video of the Vulcan on his YouTube channel?
Atb Peter
 
I had a .22 Vulcan that looked exactly like this.
Purchased it new in 1988 or 1989.
 
Walsh24 said:
I had a .22 Vulcan that looked exactly like this.
Purchased it new in 1988 or 1989.
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That's very interesting, i think this is an 88 model but not sure about that. Can you tell from the serial number?
 
I'm not sure how the serial numbers work unfortunately and I think Webley is now basically a different company, just kept the name. I could be wrong.
 
Walsh24 said:
I'm not sure how the serial numbers work unfortunately and I think Webley is now basically a different company, just kept the name. I could be wrong.
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That's right its now a Turkish company. At least this one was made in the UK lol.
 
When I pulled my MK2 apart last year (1982 model) the standard spring measured 243mm OA, 13.6ID, 20.2 OD, 3.3 wire and 33 coils. Had it from new so I can 100% guarantee that it hadn't been opened before. Spring was still good so I put it back.
Piston seal is an interesting one. I replaced the PTFE seal with a red one from Knibbs which initially was a disappointment, power dropped from low 11s to high 9s with it's usual diet of Hobbys. Put it in the cupboard again until later in the year and I was going to replace the seal but tested it again with FTT 5.55 and it gave low to mid 11s but still 9s on Hobbys. Scratched head and put it away again.
I did buy a purple seal from Protek (from the MK3 I think) ready to fit but I didn't bother in the end.
This might help with the trigger:
Gat Man

Thread 'Webley Vulcan trigger rebuild'

Ok

I can rebuild the incredibly simple trigger on my Excel with my eyes shut

The Vulcan trigger is essentially exactly the same but with the additional safety catch slide and a slightly different sear spring

Can I hell get the Vulcan trigger back together

I *think* I've put it together correctly but can't for the life of me get the assembly into the housing and with all the pins/holes lined up and working

I'm sure I'm making a simple rookie error nut after a couple of evenings of trying, I'm sending out an SOS for help!


Pretty please........
  • Haha
 
Scott1556 said:
. Don't know if tinbum does a tune up kit for the webley and scott Vulcan mk2, I think he has an old video of the Vulcan on his YouTube channel?
Atb Peter
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Yes he does, I have one of his kits in one of my Vulcans. You have to take some simple measurements and he'll send it out.
Take a look at his you tube channel, https://www.airrifletuning.com and shuffle through the videos.
 
I’m glad I read the thread that @CTD posted is it save me writing it out again 🤣. Good luck with the rebuild on the venerable Vulcan 👍………..dom
 
I have just re measured my piston and spring, the piston id is 20.8mm, spring length 225mm, spring od 20.0mm cross section 3.4mm? Number of coils 34. That a big difference to others and to the one in tinbums youtube channel. Don't really know if this is the original spring, but its definitely the original ptfe piston seal. I have a John Knibbs red seal to replace it with. With this setup I was getting 9.6 fpe with jts 16.08g pellets, but these are only 5.50mm so could increase with a larger diameter pellet!. Ive got all the parts that I need now, just have to clean it all up now, but tbh is was quite dry which was surprising.
 
Hi all, well I decided to start and put my vulcan back together again starting with the new red piston seal. A few minutes in a cup of hot water softened it up nicely and went 9n quite easily. Next was the original spring with an added top hat washer, then the spring and piston got a thin coating of molly grease. There wasn't a lot of pre load on the spring so everything went back together quite easily. Now it was time to re assemble the trigger, and guess what!! It was actually very easy!!. What's I did was to find a piece of plastic roughly the same thickness as the safety slide, and about 75 mm long. This was inserted between the sear spring and sear, then the whole lot was inserted into the trigger aperture from the front end ( barrel end ) this left enough room to insert the safety slide from the other end. Then all I had to do was fit the centre pin through the sear and sear spring, checking that the sear spring was still looped over the safety slide.
Next time I will be making some shims ( 3th thick ) for the breach to remove the slight free play. I could just apply pressure to the jaws to remove the free play, but to me that will only reduced the gap at the front of the forks??.
Atb Peter
 
Scott1556 said:
I could just apply pressure to the jaws to remove the free play, but to me that will only reduced the gap at the front of the forks??.
Atb Peter
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But the forks might be splayed out. Can you accurately measure front to rear?
 
I have measured the front and rear of the forks bothe are exactly the same 18.27 mm, the barrel breach measured 18.30 mm so the amount of play is in the breach. I have some 0.003 th shim that I will put ether side of the breach to make it equal. Or I could try applying pressure to the forks!!!. Not really sure what to do for the best?.
Atb Peter
 
Scott1556 said:
I have measured the front and rear of the forks bothe are exactly the same 18.27 mm, the barrel breach measured 18.30 mm so the amount of play is in the breach. I have some 0.003 th shim that I will put ether side of the breach to make it equal. Or I could try applying pressure to the forks!!!. Not really sure what to do for the best?.
Atb Peter
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The "traditional" fix for the wobby Webley as it was dubbed (probably unfairly) was to pinch the forks in a vice but you've got nothing to lose by trying a bit of shim first.
 
Just think that using the vice will only pinch the front part of the forks, which isn't really ideal. I will try the shim first. Really pleased that the trigger went back together without any problems. I will order some different sizes of spring for the trigger, the 0.5 mm thick spring wasn't quite strong enough so will try some 0.7 mm spring which is closer to the 0.8 mm used.
 
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