Vortex ram strip…Going to be even busier!!

Peddy

Peddy

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Weird how I’ve not had a project for ages then two come in one week!! This one came with a duff vortex ram. Plan is either to try strip and reseal or convert to spring power. Ram looks like the type 3 vortex which fills wiith hatsan probe, but no bleed screw so gently does the refilling. Easy guns to strip. The bear trap spring was broken but I was going to remove it anyway. Will be interesting to see how it strips and will update thread as I go if anyone is interested. image.webp
 
I’ve read they’re rebuildable but without a bleed screw it seems a risky game.
 
Mattyw1987 said:
I’ve read they’re rebuildable but without a bleed screw it seems a risky game.
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It is mate, think it would be a case of 100bar to start with, think 120 is the ideal? Worth a try, already have a spring ready and a handy mate to make a guide! The piston seal looks good, no nicks! image.webp
 
Out of interest has anyone stripped a hatsan striker recently. Was wondering how much preload was on the original spring? Will give an idea on choosing one from my spares drawer.
 
Danthepainter said:
I'd worry about the lack of control with a tank vs. a hand pump. Are the adaptors a standard fitment?
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Yes my thoughts aswel, if I can get it stripped and re sealed with try find someone local with a a pump. My hatsan probe fits fine.
 
Safety first, definitely use a spring compressor. Only about a quarter inch or so preload with the ram and you'll know if it's still got pressure by how it comes out. If the ram is bad, it's usually the seals in the shaft end as there are 2 orings inside that brass cap that wear or dry out over time. Bit of a pain to get out, same with installing the new ones, just take your time. Get a heat gun and heat that shaft end cap up fairly toasty since they used some kind of sealant on the threading and if memory serves, it's a 19mm wrench for that cap. Also handy to put some silicone back inside the body of the ram before reassembly.
Refilling, yes, they're made to use a Hatsan fill probe and easily done with a hand pump. Would say start on the low end and go 110 maybe, then test from there until you get it where you want it.
Oring sizes, Buna N 90 is recommended:
Fill-end-cap: 17mm x 13mm x 2mm, has 2 orings
Shaft-end-cap: 16mm x 12mm x 2mm, 1 Oring
Shaft-seal: 12mm x 8mm x 2mm, has 2 orings

Spring preload at least on the full power versions is something like 2 1/2? inches. The rest is just the usual fettling tweaks for a springer.
Hope this helps a bit :)
 
SteveP-52 said:
Safety first, definitely use a spring compressor. Only about a quarter inch or so preload with the ram and you'll know if it's still got pressure by how it comes out. If the ram is bad, it's usually the seals in the shaft end as there are 2 orings inside that brass cap that wear or dry out over time. Bit of a pain to get out, same with installing the new ones, just take your time. Get a heat gun and heat that shaft end cap up fairly toasty since they used some kind of sealant on the threading and if memory serves, it's a 19mm wrench for that cap. Also handy to put some silicone back inside the body of the ram before reassembly.
Refilling, yes, they're made to use a Hatsan fill probe and easily done with a hand pump. Would say start on the low end and go 110 maybe, then test from there until you get it where you want it.
Oring sizes, Buna N 90 is recommended:
Fill-end-cap: 17mm x 13mm x 2mm, has 2 orings
Shaft-end-cap: 16mm x 12mm x 2mm, 1 Oring
Shaft-seal: 12mm x 8mm x 2mm, has 2 orings

Spring preload at least on the full power versions is something like 2 1/2? inches. The rest is just the usual fettling tweaks for a springer.
Hope this helps a bit :)
Click to expand...
That’s fantastic info thankyou. I’m sure my rfd mate will have a pump
 
Should only take a couple strokes with a hand pump so definitely watch the gauge and go slow. Better to start low and work up since overfill and there's no way to bleed it off. Never seen an Edge/Striker/1000X with the bleed screw on the ram, those were only on my Model 95 and 87QE
Not great pictures but that shaft end cap with the factory sealant you'll have to get to break loose:
16973-Vortex-front-cap-threading.webp
Inside of that cap to give you an idea about the orings in there:
16974-Vortex-brass-shaft-guide-1.webp
I put some silicone in there after installing the new orings, then worked the shaft back and forth to make sure everything got coated well and some inside the ram body before I put the ram back together. Been a couple years since I did the job and it's still holding air.
 
With waiting for seals and time, managed to reseal the ram tonight using standard hatsan probe and one of the Amazon specials pump.I don’t overly trust the gauge so hopefully I’ve not over pressured the ram, I can just about press the rod down on a block of wood. Will wait over night to see if it holds air before fitting. Looks promising so far! IMG_2071.jpeg
 
Had to increase pressure as initial power was only 6fpe. Took some faith in the £10 pumps guage and took it to 80bar. Now running at 10.3fpe with exact. Going to leave for a few days to see if it holds pressure. If it does May add a tadge more air to get it to 11fpe. Beauty now is after the struggle to get the brass end off initially, it will be a lot easier to reseal in the future.
 
Happy to read everything seems to be working out ok for you. Random lame guess but if you're at 80, 85 might be that right number to get you around the 11ish mark and keep it legal.
 
SteveP-52 said:
Happy to read everything seems to be working out ok for you. Random lame guess but if you're at 80, 85 might be that right number to get you around the 11ish mark and keep it legal.
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Yes I reckon another 5bar will get it to around 11. Thanks or your help especially with the seal sizes. I put plenty of silicon spray inside and grease on the seals.
 
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