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Steyr LG110 Service

I'm going by the display on the compressor, which had earlier taken the Nemesis bottle up to 200 bar. No quickfill, just the standard Steyr threaded fitting.
 
crissdee said:
I'm going by the display on the compressor, which had earlier taken the Nemesis bottle up to 200 bar. No quickfill, just the standard Steyr threaded fitting.
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if the gauge on the supply is showing 120 .
That's all the supply is ......errr.......supplying .

show us a pic of the line from compressor to cylinder mate .

I'm struggling to imagine a situation where 200 from the compressor reduces to 120 in the cylinder
 
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by the way .
I know this is an old hobby horse of mine , and feel free to yawn openly ,but quick fills are the way forward on the steyr .
the bottle adapter is a cheap and cheerful way of filling the cyl but repeated on and off will wear the ally threads .
You wont see it on the reg , cos it's buried deep down that hole .

Trust me . I've seen loads . some worse than others pics to follow
 
Hmangphilly said:
I'm struggling to imagine a situation where 200 from the compressor reduces to 120 in the cylinder
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The gauge on the compressor was showing 200 when it filled the Nemesis to 200.
It was showing 120 when it filled the Steyr to 120.
The gauge on the cylinder has never worked properly since I bought it, and (according to Steyr) it is uneconomic to replace the gauge on its own.

Anywho, I tried it again after a bit of a fiddle with the comp, and it filled the cylinder to 200 (according to the compressor), the gauge on the cylinder is showing about 150, which is as much as it's ever shown in my posession.

I've thought about the quickfill, but it looks like it would extend the cylinder enough to foul on the mod, so I have my doubts about it. I am happy to be proven wrong though...
 
crissdee said:
The gauge on the compressor was showing 200 when it filled the Nemesis to 200.
It was showing 120 when it filled the Steyr to 120.
The gauge on the cylinder has never worked properly since I bought it, and (according to Steyr) it is uneconomic to replace the gauge on its own.

Anywho, I tried it again after a bit of a fiddle with the comp, and it filled the cylinder to 200 (according to the compressor), the gauge on the cylinder is showing about 150, which is as much as it's ever shown in my posession.

I've thought about the quickfill, but it looks like it would extend the cylinder enough to foul on the mod, so I have my doubts about it. I am happy to be proven wrong though...
Click to expand...
Ive had trouble with the std cylinder gauges reading very low too .
Its a worry if people are using those to asses the pressure in the cyl when using a compressor or 200+ bottle

Good shout on the cyl o ring .
Yes 7x2

you'd expect to hear it leak but worth changing any way
 
Joe.s said:
@crissdee try changing the o ring inside the regulator end of the cylinder. I think the size is 7x2. Location is circled on the diagram. View attachment 730551
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Thanks, but I'm not particularly confident about taking a £1200 gun apart. It is also still leaking somewhere inside the gun as described earlier, so it needs a good looking at anyway. As soon as I am financially stable again, I will take it somewhere to get it worked on.
 
OK then, I put my big boy pants on and took a selection of allen keys to my Steyr, with the help of a YT video. I have traced the air leak to here;
20250530_123820.png

Where do I go from here? Can't see any YT vids to help with this.... 🥺

Explored further, and I think I might be closing on the issue! The parts diagram shows an o ring there, but there wasn't! Nor was there a seal under the TP, which there should be. I think an email to Steyr Gmbh might be in order...

Ok, so I was misreading the diagram! The o ring is there, but it is still suspect as that is where the air was coming from...
 
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crissdee said:
OK then, I put my big boy pants on and took a selection of allen keys to my Steyr, with the help of a YT video. I have traced the air leak to here;
View attachment 740490

Where do I go from here? Can't see any YT vids to help with this.... 🥺

Explored further, and I think I might be closing on the issue! The parts diagram shows an o ring there, but there wasn't! Nor was there a seal under the TP, which there should be. I think an email to Steyr Gmbh might be in order...

Ok, so I was misreading the diagram! The o ring is there, but it is still suspect as that is where the air was coming from...
Click to expand...
2 o rings
1 under the reg and another under that face plate

Service films

www.steyr-sport.com www.steyr-sport.com
 
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There is no seal under the transfer port
Don’t know where you got that mis information
 
From the video by Steyr, and the parts diagram from Steyr. They specifically mention the seal when they are demonstrating the disassembly. From 2:27 in this...

And here...
8c74e5b9c1ea605f2ae2fd49eebb3e32.png
 
Watch the video, it specifically mentions a white sealing washer at around 2:36...
 
crissdee said:
Watch the video, it specifically mentions a white sealing washer at around 2:36...
Click to expand...
mate i see now what you are relying on . but ...............

THERE IS NO SEALING WASHER UNDER THE TRANSFER PORT .

sometimes the factory put a very thin plastic shim underneath the transfer port to adjust the height and fit to the stabiliser shuttle .

this is a shim not a seal . something has got lost in translation and mis lead you .
this is not the cause of an air leak .
 

You're right . he specifically refers to it as a sealing washer .

Trust me . It's not . It's a height adjustment shim .

Your narrator is an actor reading off a script written by the Austrian factory .

Lots of steyr owners get befuddled by this and the part is not available to buy . I have made many for owners in distress who have damaged the fragile part or who think they have lost it .
The fit of the transfer port to shuttle is a very fine adjustment and can easily be over cooked . if it is too tight you'll get a lovely air tight seal but will wear the top of the shuttle and the bore of the chassis ..

Its a very subjective " feel fit " .

Re assembling the trigger block to the chassis is an important step by step process and sometimes counter intuitive .

FWIW

heres the process that works for me ....

remove the barrel from chassis ( otherwise it will interfere with the feel of the transfer port setting process ) ....even if it was ok before disassembly
assemble the stabiliser and cocking link to the trigger block and slide into the chassis

LOOSELY fit the transfer port just pop it in the hole finger tight then back off 1/8-1/4 turn

fit the 2 rear bolts loosely .
wiggle the action around till its in a happy place and the cocking arm and shuttle move freely

Make sure the transfer port is Not tight ( finger tight less a1/8 -1/4 turn ) but the head is in the recess and it turns feely
nip down the 2 rear screws and tighten .

Recheck the shuttle moves freely

Nip down the transfer port use the small end of allen key ONLY NIP IT DOWN SO IT CANT MOVE AND UNDO ITSELF THAT'S ENOUGH . DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT

Be aware . there is no seal between the transfer port and the chassis or the transfer port to the trigger block .
I know it makes no sense . it's hard to get your head around but that's how it is and it works just fine . Go with it .

Now you need to check the feel of the stabiliser shuttle to the transfer port at full closed position. you should feel it lightly contact . I cant describe this , you'll have to feel a light lock up . Be aware the TP is trying to force the shuttle upwards so excessive lock up here will cause wear over time .
if you have Too loose lock up you will need to shim the TP . Some people cut a washer out of old 35mm film or very thin plastic sheet . I make them on the lathe and will send you some if you're stuck . Generally 0.05 -0.10 mm is around the right area thats 2-4 thou in english .

The fit will be trial and error till you're happy .

dont be temped to overtighten the TP ( yes i keep saying that don't I )

nip it back down , recheck the cocking arm and shuttle move freely . recheck your lock up feels ok and double check the rear screws are tight.
Make a note of where the transfer port is and remove it.

set your barrel lock up . That's by feel too . Same deal here ........Just enough is enough .......over tight is no advantage and will stress the rest of the rifle

Refit the transfer port to the same position and feel and your're good to go .

check for leaks with a bit of tissue or fluff from a cotton bud most will seal perfect some never do ( go figure )
Re adjust as you see fit but avoid stressing the parts


Honestly mate ..

Read the above . digest it . Get your head around what's going on rather than just following parrot fashion and you'l be quids in

If you develop your own process then great theres always more ways to skin a cat but try to understand whats we are doing and why

It's about aligning every thing to sit naturally together in an unstressed state .

Steyr's dont like to be bent into shape

sorry for the lecture ...................
 
Thanks for that. Steyr UK seems to be on holiday right now, but I will look at this again when I get the new regulator o ring and start to rebuild it. I didn't think the air leak was from the TP, but I thought if it should have a seal there I'd better get one. I bow to your superior knowledge of the matter.... :giggle:
 
crissdee said:
Thanks for that. Steyr UK seems to be on holiday right now, but I will look at this again when I get the new regulator o ring and start to rebuild it. I didn't think the air leak was from the TP, but I thought if it should have a seal there I'd better get one. I bow to your superior knowledge of the matter.... :giggle:
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reg o ring is 6x2 , 10- a -penny anywhere oe is green and sexy . any old black n70 will be fine
make sure the back face of the reg is flat and un damaged . Ive seen them warped

careful of the reg screws they're made out of actual cheese they're m3.5 but the head is a funny size only oe will go straight in ,If you're talking to steyr , order yourself a set you'll need them at some point and they're not dear
 
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heres the 2 orings in the area you're concerned about The 6x 2mm reg o ring and the one thats squished into an oval shape to seal the plenum chamber 24x2 mm

Dont worry about the silver reg tester bodies . I know yours is in the black face plate but its the only picture ive got steyr tester bodies.jpegsteyr oval oring.jpeg
 
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