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Spot welding experience anyone??

Dazzler

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I'm messing with a side project using "c stud" the galv metal timber substitute in stud walls. I've been fixing it to itself with rivets but they obviously make the surface have proud points, so I was thinking of alternatives and spot welding popped into my tiny mind.
I know absolutely nothing about any form of welding (electrician) so any advice or suggestions would help 😁
 
You would have to grind off any zinc plating between the two parts being welded I would think.
OK that might put a stop to that idea then 😂 it's only 50mm square and used as a framework to apply board to. Might be more trouble than it's worth to have to clean all welding points.
Nievely I was thinking just buy a small machine and away we go!
 
There is a tool a sort of punch pliers

It’s called a metal stud crisper or puncher sell them on amazon
 
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You can spot weld through the zinc, but it will require more power or multiple spots on the same spot. It makes a mess of the tips, plus as mentioned before, gives off a cyanide gas which will make you ill ( zinc fumes fever)
 
You can spot weld through the zinc, but it will require more power or multiple spots on the same spot. It makes a mess of the tips, plus as mentioned before, gives off a cyanide gas which will make you ill ( zinc fumes fever)
Thanks for putting me straight, the weld idea has to go. Kids are about the workshop 👍
 
Many years ago it was necessary to weld a 2"outlet onto a steel Braithwaite water tank.
I asked the leading operative if he could weld.He said no, so I started myself with a transformer stick welder.
Before much progress I had to leave site.
On return I found the operative welding.
I said you told me you couldn't weld.
Response was,"I can't but I can do a better job than you." He was very much correct.
 
I'm messing with a side project using "c stud" the galv metal timber substitute in stud walls. I've been fixing it to itself with rivets but they obviously make the surface have proud points, so I was thinking of alternatives and spot welding popped into my tiny mind.
I know absolutely nothing about any form of welding (electrician) so any advice or suggestions would help 😁
As above, use crimps. They are awkward ro reverse I'll post a picture of mine later. The added benefit over those dawned wafer head screws is you dont get a lump.

As an aside. I always lay 9mm sheet osb on tbe studwork before the studeork and then overlay with p.board. it makes the walls much more rigid and so much easier for mounting rads etc over. It also means less wastage with the drywall which can be a pain to get rid of 🙂
 
I'm messing with a side project using "c stud" the galv metal timber substitute in stud walls. I've been fixing it to itself with rivets but they obviously make the surface have proud points, so I was thinking of alternatives and spot welding popped into my tiny mind.
I know absolutely nothing about any form of welding (electrician) so any advice or suggestions would help 😁
As above, use crimps. They are awkward ro reverse I'll post a picture of mine later. The added benefit over those dawned wafer head screws is you dont get a lump.

As an aside. I always lay 9mm sheet osb on tbe studwork before the studeork and then overlay with p.board. it makes the walls much more rigid and so much easier for mounting rads etc over. It also means less wastage with the drywall which can be a pain to get rid of 🙂
 
I'm messing with a side project using "c stud" the galv metal timber substitute in stud walls. I've been fixing it to itself with rivets but they obviously make the surface have proud points, so I was thinking of alternatives and spot welding popped into my tiny mind.
I know absolutely nothing about any form of welding (electrician) so any advice or suggestions would help 😁
As above, use crimps. They are awkward ro reverse I'll post a picture of mine later. The added benefit over those dawned wafer head screws is you dont get a lump.

As an aside. I always lay 9mm sheet osb on tbe studwork before the studeork and then overlay with p.board. it makes the walls much more rigid and so much easier for mounting rads etc over. It also means less wastage with the drywall which can be a pain to get rid of 🙂

I use these...

But these ones look fine

 
Spot welding through zintec sheet is a daily occurance in an automotive application, but it is a very thin coating. Hot dip galvanising is very much thicker and will cause all sorts of havoc your electrodes will "pick up" the zinc and this also melts at a much lower temperature than the steel, you will get vaporisation of the zinc in the joint and this will cause expulsion of molten zinc and steel. Not pleasant. You could use countersink pop rivets that finish flush.
 
As above, use crimps. They are awkward ro reverse I'll post a picture of mine later. The added benefit over those dawned wafer head screws is you dont get a lump.

As an aside. I always lay 9mm sheet osb on tbe studwork before the studeork and then overlay with p.board. it makes the walls much more rigid and so much easier for mounting rads etc over. It also means less wastage with the drywall which can be a pain to get rid of 🙂

I use these...

But these ones look fine

I've just ordered a set of the edma ones, thanks for the help 👌👌
 
In addition to already mentioned toxic fumes and messing up tips, welding galv produces a nasty yellow substance. I regularly mig weld including to bzp bolts but I grind the galv off first.
 
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