sagalout
Member Extraordinaire
This was on the old forum so I thought I would recreate here, I only have an old mans memory banks to remake it from so it may vary from the original).
I bought this in February 2022 on a whim (a long standing itch scratched when my then current Omega Trailcharger had a slight hiccup, spares bought, delivered and TC repaired before the Hill arrived
).
I replaced the supplied whip (screwed into the outlet) with a Best Fittings Female Foster because I prefer the flexibility of being to change whips/filters as I please. I fitted a Best Fittings Elbow to the Hill whip. Normally I use a Best Fittings 1500mm micro bore whip with a long female Foster on the end because it fits easily on my Crowns.
I am currently at 11 hours of runtime. I changed the oil at 1 hour, 3 hours and 10 hours. I will probably change it again at 20. The oil is cheap to change (very expensive by volume but it only holds a small amount). It uses very little silicon.
I run a gold twin tampon filter at all times and add another single tampon filter if filling a bottle.
The twin filter has a 10x25mm and a 20x35 tampon and the single filter has a 20x35 tampon (after a quick visit to aliexpress I have about 150 of each filter size for a few quid).
I only ever run it until the cooling cycle starts (at 75 degrees it stops the compressor and waits for the temperature to drop to 65 degrees before restarting). When I did run it for multiple cooling cycles the crank case got very hot. I'm in no hurry, from 20 to 75 will put about 15 bar in a 7L bottle.
At around 2 hours of runtime it started blowing the pressure release valve in the head. I spoke to Hill who said it was probably a speck of dirt in the head valve so I could strip it (as per their video on youtube) and fix it or they would collect it, repair and return. My choice. Being a tinkererholic I chose to do it meself. Only issue I had was the inlet pipe to the condense filer is an absolute sod to get at.
It's very difficult to hold the "blue" elbow and undo the "red" nut. I got it undone in the end but could not get the joint to reseal when putting it all back together. Another phone to Hill and the engineer said do it up tight. I said what if it breaks? He said if you break it I'll drive down and repair it today. Can't be fairer than that so I applied 5 white knuckles of torque and hey presto jobs a good 'un.
For future servicing I have now "made" a special tool (no, not @Scoie) this bent spanner (yeah I know it does sound like @Scoie when you put it like that)
I bought this in February 2022 on a whim (a long standing itch scratched when my then current Omega Trailcharger had a slight hiccup, spares bought, delivered and TC repaired before the Hill arrived
).I replaced the supplied whip (screwed into the outlet) with a Best Fittings Female Foster because I prefer the flexibility of being to change whips/filters as I please. I fitted a Best Fittings Elbow to the Hill whip. Normally I use a Best Fittings 1500mm micro bore whip with a long female Foster on the end because it fits easily on my Crowns.
I am currently at 11 hours of runtime. I changed the oil at 1 hour, 3 hours and 10 hours. I will probably change it again at 20. The oil is cheap to change (very expensive by volume but it only holds a small amount). It uses very little silicon.
I run a gold twin tampon filter at all times and add another single tampon filter if filling a bottle.
The twin filter has a 10x25mm and a 20x35 tampon and the single filter has a 20x35 tampon (after a quick visit to aliexpress I have about 150 of each filter size for a few quid).
I only ever run it until the cooling cycle starts (at 75 degrees it stops the compressor and waits for the temperature to drop to 65 degrees before restarting). When I did run it for multiple cooling cycles the crank case got very hot. I'm in no hurry, from 20 to 75 will put about 15 bar in a 7L bottle.
At around 2 hours of runtime it started blowing the pressure release valve in the head. I spoke to Hill who said it was probably a speck of dirt in the head valve so I could strip it (as per their video on youtube) and fix it or they would collect it, repair and return. My choice. Being a tinkererholic I chose to do it meself. Only issue I had was the inlet pipe to the condense filer is an absolute sod to get at.
It's very difficult to hold the "blue" elbow and undo the "red" nut. I got it undone in the end but could not get the joint to reseal when putting it all back together. Another phone to Hill and the engineer said do it up tight. I said what if it breaks? He said if you break it I'll drive down and repair it today. Can't be fairer than that so I applied 5 white knuckles of torque and hey presto jobs a good 'un.
For future servicing I have now "made" a special tool (no, not @Scoie) this bent spanner (yeah I know it does sound like @Scoie when you put it like that)
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I was planning on ordering bits previously but got sidetracked. For the tiny cost of a bottle of crank oil, I can see me doing it at 6 months, by then it’s probably going to have hit 3hrs and like you, I would prefer to get any of the initial fine particles out.