• the Daily hi thread just say hi :)

  • Welcome to the UK's Most Active Airgun Forum

    Looking for expert advice on air rifles and shooting gear? You have found the internet's premier independent airgun forum. Our active shooting community shares daily technical insights on modular PCP air rifles, spring-powered rifles, air pistols, pellet testing, and optics setup. Whether you are troubleshooting an FX or Daystate regulator, discussing legal FAC requirements, planning a night vision hunting trip, or looking for pest control tips, our members are here to help.

Metric course to fine studs!

Tricky-Dicky

Tricky-Dicky

Member Extraordinaire
Joined
Jul 6, 2022
Messages
5,878
Reaction score
13,455
Points
220
Location
Norfolk
You would think it would be easy to find but after an hour searching the only ones I can find are in the US so prohibitive due to postage, \i am after an M10 stud with 1.25 thread pitch at one end and 1.5 at the other, I tried buy M10 x 1.25 machine screw but whether its down to my die or the hardness of the bolt I can't cut a thread, can't do it on the lathe unfortunately due to gearing, anyone every had cause to find such a thing in the UK?
 
Tricky-Dicky said:
You would think it would be easy to find but after an hour searching the only ones I can find are in the US so prohibitive due to postage, \i am after an M10 stud with 1.25 thread pitch at one end and 1.5 at the other, I tried buy M10 x 1.25 machine screw but whether its down to my die or the hardness of the bolt I can't cut a thread, can't do it on the lathe unfortunately due to gearing, anyone every had cause to find such a thing in the UK?
Click to expand...
What about this

https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/PARENT5139
 
Tricky-Dicky said:
Thanks but that's just same pitch each end.

That's what I did, but the die won't cut any sense the material too hard or the die is just rubbish.
Click to expand...

Did you give it a 45 degree bevel to start on?
What material was the bolt?
 
Of course, but the material is unknown but It's pretty hard, may try again with stainless if not its back to the drawing board.
 
Tricky-Dicky said:
Of course, but the material is unknown but It's pretty hard, may try again with stainless if not its back to the drawing board.
Click to expand...

OK sorry, I had to ask, in case the die needed some real help getting started.
The stainless suggestion was to avoid any harder materials, off all the (limited) bits I touch, machine screws can be the hardest.
 
Anneal the "stud", then re harden after working?
Can you change the nuts to the appropriate thread,and use a machine screw with the end cut off?
Edit-Or just change to bolts?
 
Last edited:
The new Triumph has got a Hyde forward control kit that brings the pegs and controls 4"-5" further back toward the rider, but I find it too cramped so wanted to move the controls back to the original position, but the stud for the peg is M10 x 1.5 and the frame side is M10 x 1.25, but I have found a compromise and got it back to within 1" of the original position and sorted the linkage which works for the brake side all I need to do now is drill the gear side plate and fit a longer linkage rod.
 
Tricky-Dicky said:
The new Triumph has got a Hyde forward control kit that brings the pegs and controls 4"-5" further back toward the rider, but I find it too cramped so wanted to move the controls back to the original position, but the stud for the peg is M10 x 1.5 and the frame side is M10 x 1.25, but I have found a compromise and got it back to within 1" of the original position and sorted the linkage which works for the brake side all I need to do now is drill the gear side plate and fit a longer linkage rod.
Click to expand...
Possibly helicoil the peg to same thread as the frame
 
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top