smartmove77
Active member
On my old printer I've been using Eryone. No issues
-
the Daily hi thread
Filaments and brands?
- Thread starter GrandPA
- Start date
Sorry but Ive never used the Yellow filament, so cant comment on the match with dewalt.Many thanks another detailed replyI have had a look at the PETG -HFyou mentioned, it looks very good. Would you any chance know if the yellow is similar to DeWalt yellow? It looks close on my screen. I have several ideas for DeWalt projects, some already on line but the yellows listed are USA brands.
The printer you have looks a good buy as well on review websites.
The Centauri Carbon is a good printer but it doesnt have an AMS at the moment. I only really want to print single colours so it doesnt matter to me. It comes with the ability to print abrasive filaments like carbon or glass fibre so no need to upgrade the hotend.
i brought a p1s combo deal in black friday sale i have had brands of filament that were not great not a brand i know of or can remember but i then found my problem was i needed to dry it i now use sunlu pla or pla+ my grand children have silk colour changing stuff but i now put every thing in a dryer https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F93N86RG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and i brought cereal boxes https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BL379HYX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
and put silica gel in them https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098R6552V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
i dont know if i have gone over the top with the storage but thought i only have to buy them once but think i have 16 boxes ok when they are on offer for £10 for 4 boxes i also have 6 hydromiter things i can swop aronund https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JG9QZ2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 the moisture reading in our house was over 70 %my boxes sit at 10% and i printed the baskets to go in the ams that may very in reading from 10 to 20 % i dont think i would buy a ams if i was to start again heres a pic of my boxes i dont have baskets or rollers
Jus a scoop of silica in each and a 1kg tub done all my boxes and the ams
and put silica gel in them https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B098R6552V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
i dont know if i have gone over the top with the storage but thought i only have to buy them once but think i have 16 boxes ok when they are on offer for £10 for 4 boxes i also have 6 hydromiter things i can swop aronund https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JG9QZ2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 the moisture reading in our house was over 70 %my boxes sit at 10% and i printed the baskets to go in the ams that may very in reading from 10 to 20 % i dont think i would buy a ams if i was to start again heres a pic of my boxes i dont have baskets or rollers
Jus a scoop of silica in each and a 1kg tub done all my boxes and the ams
GrandPA
Member Extraordinaire
Fantastic, thanks for the links as well.
TobyGator
Keen member
I'm using Sunlu and Bambu Labs.
Hangtight870
Well-known member
What filament type you chose is going to depend on the types of components you're thinking of printing and the properties you want from them.
The material properties will then determine the spec of printer you'll need to print them successfully.
For functional parts I use ABS-GF (10% glass fibre). This gives me parts that are dimensionally stable and dimensionally accurate as well as being stiff with good temperature resistance. The glass fibre also gives a nice slightly textured surface finish that hides layer lines.
However it's not the easiest material to print, but far more forgiving than other popular 'engineering' filaments.
PLA is easy to print, very stiff but potentially brittle with a fairly low temperature resistance. It can also be prone to warping, particularly on larger parts. High strength and higher temperature versions are available, but I've not tried them.
PETG is tougher and has a bit more temperature resistance, but can be prone to warping (less so if GF filled) and is a bit 'sticky' with a tendency to blob and string unless print settings are dialled in. Avoid CF 'reinforced'. Good for cosmetics but that's about it.
ABS is inexpensive, tough and has good (95-100°C) temperature resistance. Tends to shrink /warp but this is pretty much eliminated when GF filled. Again, CF is mainly cosmetic, being short bits of milled carbon as opposed to slightly longer GF strands. It's also pretty moisture tolerant. A cheap food dehydrator will get it dry and there's no need for a dry box to print from.
Take a look at the Centuri Carbon from Elegoo as an inexpensive option that'll print higher performance filaments, being enclosed and capable of 320°C printing temperatures.
The material properties will then determine the spec of printer you'll need to print them successfully.
For functional parts I use ABS-GF (10% glass fibre). This gives me parts that are dimensionally stable and dimensionally accurate as well as being stiff with good temperature resistance. The glass fibre also gives a nice slightly textured surface finish that hides layer lines.
However it's not the easiest material to print, but far more forgiving than other popular 'engineering' filaments.
PLA is easy to print, very stiff but potentially brittle with a fairly low temperature resistance. It can also be prone to warping, particularly on larger parts. High strength and higher temperature versions are available, but I've not tried them.
PETG is tougher and has a bit more temperature resistance, but can be prone to warping (less so if GF filled) and is a bit 'sticky' with a tendency to blob and string unless print settings are dialled in. Avoid CF 'reinforced'. Good for cosmetics but that's about it.
ABS is inexpensive, tough and has good (95-100°C) temperature resistance. Tends to shrink /warp but this is pretty much eliminated when GF filled. Again, CF is mainly cosmetic, being short bits of milled carbon as opposed to slightly longer GF strands. It's also pretty moisture tolerant. A cheap food dehydrator will get it dry and there's no need for a dry box to print from.
Take a look at the Centuri Carbon from Elegoo as an inexpensive option that'll print higher performance filaments, being enclosed and capable of 320°C printing temperatures.
smartmove77
Active member
I'm printing some stock parts (an experiment so longitudinal stiffness is key) and planned to print in PETG-CF. I've seen some tests online of CF vs GF and in some (depending on brand of filament) the GF came out stiffer... has that been your experience?
Hangtight870
Well-known member
Absolutely. The GF also gives better layer adhesion than CF filled.
I use the Eryone branded for parts where appearance isn't so important, but I prefer the Melovy branded for it's better surface finish.
For parts where longitudinal stiffness is important consider a composite construction. Bonding aluminum strips or carbon rod into the print massively improves stiffness and strength.
I use the Eryone branded for parts where appearance isn't so important, but I prefer the Melovy branded for it's better surface finish.
For parts where longitudinal stiffness is important consider a composite construction. Bonding aluminum strips or carbon rod into the print massively improves stiffness and strength.
GrandPA
Member Extraordinaire
Very informative thank you
Avalon
Member Extraordinaire
I have a 2D background (print, mechanical engraving, laser engraving, chemical etching, vinyl etc.) and last week decided to pickup a A1 Mini, here’s what a week has taught me:
PLA is easy to print consistently, bed adhesion is pretty reliable now, as is auto levelling etc. and most known brands are very similar, Sunlu for example is inexpensive and produces very similar quality to Bambi’s own filament which stock is short on after the same. PETG is more suited to ‘parts’ but requires slower printing and drying, only tried Bambu PETG so far. A larger print bed is desirable, you inevitably will find you want to print bigger stuff.
Print wise I have printed everything from a Rocktopus to a 19cm Critter model from the 80’s film series, today it was clips for copper pipes rather than go out and buy them. Has it paid for itself? It’s certainly on the way, by the time I have done a few magazines for my personal use, it will have, but my machine was pretty cheap, and honestly it’s like any other tool at this point, I am OK with PLA and PETG.
What would I buy knowing what I do now? Well the A1 if you can live the simple, the quality is identical in PlA and PETG, otherwise P2S would be the best bang for buck if you need to do more exotic filaments, by the time you’ve upgraded the P1S gear and nozzle, you may as well have just bought a P2S as you still have a poorer quality screen and no flat bottom for easy clean out. AMS is debatable, if you need multi colour, it’s great, if you don’t, and organise your designs poorly, you can waste more filament than you print, but the continuous feed is decent for using up your full rolls and it’s pretty seamless (a mate has two P1S+AMS’).
Print quality using PLA is getting close to resin levels of detail, genuinely printing has stopped being about the printer with Bambu, it’s now more or less hit print with the right settings/supports and it comes out as intended, as long as the bed is clean, skip the alcohol and just use washing up liquid and a dedicated clean sponge.
Software wise Fusion 360 is where you probably want to be if designing parts, Tinkercad is more basic but quite reasonable and lighter in hardware as it’s all done in a browser, YouTube is your friend for tutorials. Personally I wish I could get my workflow from CorelDraw to integrate and then extrude, it’s frustrating that drawing up stuff would take minutes in Draw, but I struggle in F360, give it a few weeks and I’m sure it will feel natural and not as basic.
Oh, and as someone who has a Creatily that was nothing short of annoying to use, this is waaaay nicer.
PLA is easy to print consistently, bed adhesion is pretty reliable now, as is auto levelling etc. and most known brands are very similar, Sunlu for example is inexpensive and produces very similar quality to Bambi’s own filament which stock is short on after the same. PETG is more suited to ‘parts’ but requires slower printing and drying, only tried Bambu PETG so far. A larger print bed is desirable, you inevitably will find you want to print bigger stuff.
Print wise I have printed everything from a Rocktopus to a 19cm Critter model from the 80’s film series, today it was clips for copper pipes rather than go out and buy them. Has it paid for itself? It’s certainly on the way, by the time I have done a few magazines for my personal use, it will have, but my machine was pretty cheap, and honestly it’s like any other tool at this point, I am OK with PLA and PETG.
What would I buy knowing what I do now? Well the A1 if you can live the simple, the quality is identical in PlA and PETG, otherwise P2S would be the best bang for buck if you need to do more exotic filaments, by the time you’ve upgraded the P1S gear and nozzle, you may as well have just bought a P2S as you still have a poorer quality screen and no flat bottom for easy clean out. AMS is debatable, if you need multi colour, it’s great, if you don’t, and organise your designs poorly, you can waste more filament than you print, but the continuous feed is decent for using up your full rolls and it’s pretty seamless (a mate has two P1S+AMS’).
Print quality using PLA is getting close to resin levels of detail, genuinely printing has stopped being about the printer with Bambu, it’s now more or less hit print with the right settings/supports and it comes out as intended, as long as the bed is clean, skip the alcohol and just use washing up liquid and a dedicated clean sponge.
Software wise Fusion 360 is where you probably want to be if designing parts, Tinkercad is more basic but quite reasonable and lighter in hardware as it’s all done in a browser, YouTube is your friend for tutorials. Personally I wish I could get my workflow from CorelDraw to integrate and then extrude, it’s frustrating that drawing up stuff would take minutes in Draw, but I struggle in F360, give it a few weeks and I’m sure it will feel natural and not as basic.
Oh, and as someone who has a Creatily that was nothing short of annoying to use, this is waaaay nicer.
Icedtiger
Active member
Just got into 3D printing myself with a Flashforge 5M PRO. On a steep learning curve, just making bits for the house and the grandkids at the moment. Not envisioning going into commercial production just yet 
. Have used Flashforge, Sunlu and Elegoo PLA with no issues, also used Creality PETG and Flashforge ASA with no hiccups. I have had a couple of failures due to not using brims on certain items which got knocked off the bed.
. Have used Flashforge, Sunlu and Elegoo PLA with no issues, also used Creality PETG and Flashforge ASA with no hiccups. I have had a couple of failures due to not using brims on certain items which got knocked off the bed.
SabreTroop
Active member
I've been using Sunlu and more recently Elegoo PLA. Both giving good results. I get them off Amazon pretty cheaply in 4kg bundles. Sunlu worked out at £8.93 per kg & Elegoo was £9.18 per kg (Amazon fluctuate so just keep checking)