GMballistic
Busy member
Just recently got a BSA Airsporter Mk1 (1948-1954) in a swap for a pistol I was selling. I love vintage and antique guns so it was an easy decision for me.
As I got it.
Well used and worn through the paint in places on the trigger block/guard.
I hadn't intended to do anything to the rifle but unfortunately when it arrived the stock retaining bolt had snapped during transit through no fault of the seller/swapper as it was well packed from what I could see.
At that point I decided I'd do a "mini" refurb on it as for starters I was going to have to get that out before I could put the rifle together so thought I'd spend a little time making it my own.
First job get the remaining part of the old bolt out whilst I waited for the new/old stock one to arrive from John Knibbs.
Of course it wouldn't come out easily, even with heat, mole grips, cutting a slot for a screw driver etc so in the end I had to drill it out and look at re-tapping the hole.
Not knowing the size was difficult and being an old BSA the size was imperial but some random old, seldom used motor bike size from what I could gather.
I ended up using an "F" drill bit I had and a 5/16th x 18 TPI UNC tap. The tap was/is not the correct TPI I'm sure so the pitch was off but luckily it was close enough to work.
With that sorted I started stripping down the rifle internals to check for any damage to the seal or spring in the chamber.
Spring seemed in good shape as did the guide and all original too.
The leather seal on the piston was crumbling a little on the edges with one side pretty bad so I decided to replace it with a modern alternative from TW Chambers.
The piston I could see would dismantle for seal replacement but I wasn't 100% how to do it and was sure a special tool was needed so I asked on here and thankfully @Johnbaz was able to tell me how it was done.
I just needed to make a special tool from some pipe and thankfully I had just the pipe needed already in my garage so it was a simple DIY with my grinder and a handfile.
New seal and O-ring all fitted ready for assembly later on.
With the gun apart I decided to have a go at the underlever which was very heavily rust pitted.
I quickly realized that the pitting was very deep as well as the lever being hardended making removing the pitting even more difficult.
I perservered swapping to a Dremel grinding wheel, then hand files followed by various grades of sand paper. Nowhere near perfect but I didn't want to make the lever uneven or weaken the overall structure so I left it at that.
Then I tried using some Abbey bluing gel.
Warmed the lever arm a little bit first then applied the gel, washing off after a few seconds and repeating the process 5 or 6 times before oiling. Time will tell how long it will last but looks good for now.
Next up; the trigger block refurb.
I used all Halfords paints for this ~ Etch primer first, then satin black followed by clear lacquer afterwards to protect the finish.
First job was to strip some bits out of the block, prep the block using sand paper for better adhesion, mask off and then degrease ready for the etch primer.
Left to dry for 24 hours then, quick check over for any contaminates, then painted in satin black base colour.
Again left to dry for 24 hours before checking over and applying the clear lacquer.
Once dryed I reassembled.
More to follow.
As I got it.
Well used and worn through the paint in places on the trigger block/guard.
I hadn't intended to do anything to the rifle but unfortunately when it arrived the stock retaining bolt had snapped during transit through no fault of the seller/swapper as it was well packed from what I could see.
At that point I decided I'd do a "mini" refurb on it as for starters I was going to have to get that out before I could put the rifle together so thought I'd spend a little time making it my own.
First job get the remaining part of the old bolt out whilst I waited for the new/old stock one to arrive from John Knibbs.
Of course it wouldn't come out easily, even with heat, mole grips, cutting a slot for a screw driver etc so in the end I had to drill it out and look at re-tapping the hole.
Not knowing the size was difficult and being an old BSA the size was imperial but some random old, seldom used motor bike size from what I could gather.
I ended up using an "F" drill bit I had and a 5/16th x 18 TPI UNC tap. The tap was/is not the correct TPI I'm sure so the pitch was off but luckily it was close enough to work.
With that sorted I started stripping down the rifle internals to check for any damage to the seal or spring in the chamber.
Spring seemed in good shape as did the guide and all original too.
The leather seal on the piston was crumbling a little on the edges with one side pretty bad so I decided to replace it with a modern alternative from TW Chambers.
The piston I could see would dismantle for seal replacement but I wasn't 100% how to do it and was sure a special tool was needed so I asked on here and thankfully @Johnbaz was able to tell me how it was done.
I just needed to make a special tool from some pipe and thankfully I had just the pipe needed already in my garage so it was a simple DIY with my grinder and a handfile.
New seal and O-ring all fitted ready for assembly later on.
With the gun apart I decided to have a go at the underlever which was very heavily rust pitted.
I quickly realized that the pitting was very deep as well as the lever being hardended making removing the pitting even more difficult.
I perservered swapping to a Dremel grinding wheel, then hand files followed by various grades of sand paper. Nowhere near perfect but I didn't want to make the lever uneven or weaken the overall structure so I left it at that.
Then I tried using some Abbey bluing gel.
Warmed the lever arm a little bit first then applied the gel, washing off after a few seconds and repeating the process 5 or 6 times before oiling. Time will tell how long it will last but looks good for now.
Next up; the trigger block refurb.
I used all Halfords paints for this ~ Etch primer first, then satin black followed by clear lacquer afterwards to protect the finish.
First job was to strip some bits out of the block, prep the block using sand paper for better adhesion, mask off and then degrease ready for the etch primer.
Left to dry for 24 hours then, quick check over for any contaminates, then painted in satin black base colour.
Again left to dry for 24 hours before checking over and applying the clear lacquer.
Once dryed I reassembled.
More to follow.
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