Air Strippers

[Living_Shinigami]

Has anyone ever tried 3D printing an Air Stripper?

I made an attempt, which I'm going to test but I wondered if anyone has any experience with it at all?

Good, Bad, Ugly.

 

[PartTimeLegend]

I tried printing a few of them and they weren’t very good unfortunately. I ended up buying one from Rowan Engineering.

Be aware they are loud when you use one. My rifle is hitting 120dB and I’ve had complaints about it at the club.

Also dry your filament.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

I tried printing a few of them and they weren’t very good unfortunately. I ended up buying one from Rowan Engineering.

Be aware they are loud when you use one. My rifle is hitting 120dB and I’ve had complaints about it at the club.

Also dry your filament.

Interesting. I knew it would make the rifle "louder" than with a silencer, but I didn't think it would go that loud!

Out of interest, do you think a shroud is going to help? My Brocock is shrouded so I'm hoping the noise just balances out to normal again...(Big Hope there!)

Did you see any improvement in grouping?

I'm thinking of getting the Eagle Vision adjustable one, but before I sink £80-90 I wanted to test if it made a difference...

 

[PartTimeLegend]

Interesting. I knew it would make the rifle "louder" than with a silencer, but I didn't think it would go that loud!

Out of interest, do you think a shroud is going to help? My Brocock is shrouded so I'm hoping the noise just balances out to normal again...(Big Hope there!)

Did you see any improvement in grouping?

I'm thinking of getting the Eagle Vision adjustable one, but before I sink £80-90 I wanted to test if it made a difference...

I’ve got an Air Arms S510 Tactical which has a shrouded barrel. I had to buy an adapter from Best Fittings for it so I could get a 1/2” UNF in it. That’s the rifle that’s so loud. I can remove the shroud and fire without the stripper and get a reading on that when I’m next at the range. I’m the adapter fits to the shroud so I’m not able to do shroudless with the stripper to compare though.

The one I have has an adjustable cone. Yours looks the same. You have to dial it in. Takes a fair amount of effort. Start with a gap you can fit the pellet in but no more. You’re displacing the air as it ejects but you don’t want the pellet in free space imo. You might need to adjust if you change pellets.

I have noticed a reduction in grouping sizes. However my club has a single bench rest slot you can put targets on and it’s only 25 yards. I’m going to pop over to my old club soon to try at 50 yards.

You need to know your rifle well enough to know the change. Also your POI has likely shifted. So you’ll want to zero your scope once you have it working. That makes the dialing in harder.

On a 25 yard target I can keep 5 shots in the bull with it. Though my new club is outdoor so wind can be an issue.

 

[NateChrony]

I've done a couple and of course have experience with my adapters...

Firstly - TEST & Check!!! you dont want shrapnel flying everywhere from your muzzle

Use only black/transparent filament - I tried a few solid colours & they were INSANELY weak.
Again - TEST!!!

You need a slightly flexible filament - PETG is probably the best.
Do NOT go with a rigid filament like ABS/PLA - its going to crack & weaken & boomski

Also some slicing settings will be critical - thickness of course, print perimeters first for dimensional accuracy.

 

[qyuubi786]

I've printed one in ABS like resin. It's for a shroud and it seems to be pretty effective.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

I've printed one in ABS like resin. It's for a shroud and it seems to be pretty effective.

That makes me happier!!

I enjoyed the design and modelling, so it's not wasted time but it would be nice to have something functional at the end...

Mine is PETG, but I made it solid material, less than a gram of infill.

 

[NateChrony]

When talking about safety - its worth doubling down...
Be VERY VERY careful with filament selection - if it fails you've got sharp plastic bits flying in all directions.

Hard plastics crack with fatigue/vibration - it may not happen in 20 shots, may not in 50... but it will eventually go. A slight bit of flex in the material is essential.

Tap & smash a few models with a hammer - how do wthey fail, sharp edges, warp before breaking.... test test test

 

[qyuubi786]

That makes me happier!!

I enjoyed the design and modelling, so it's not wasted time but it would be nice to have something functional at the end...

Mine is PETG, but I made it solid material, less than a gram of infill.

This is the muzzle break, it's a failed print but you can see the level of detail.

 

[PartTimeLegend]

When talking about safety - its worth doubling down...
Be VERY VERY careful with filament selection - if it fails you've got sharp plastic bits flying in all directions.

Hard plastics crack with fatigue/vibration - it may not happen in 20 shots, may not in 50... but it will eventually go. A slight bit of flex in the material is essential.

Tap & smash a few models with a hammer - how do wthey fail, sharp edges, warp before breaking.... test test test

Cut my hands taking prints off the bed this week. Never mind when they’re broken.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

This is the muzzle break, it's a failed print but you can see the level of detail.

Interesting Asymmetry going on there! I like it.

I've been iterating and I've got my V2 printed with optimised Lamina flow.

Then today I got bored and decided to use that stripping core and build a plenum with a shell to reduce report and turn it into a hybrid Stripper - Moderator... 60g+ of filament 99walls.

I'm gonna test V2 then I want to make this if successful and see if I can get the fluid dynamics down...

 

[PartTimeLegend]

Interesting Asymmetry going on there! I like it.

I've been iterating and I've got my V2 printed with optimised Lamina flow.

Then today I got bored and decided to use that stripping core and build a plenum with a shell to reduce report and turn it into a hybrid Stripper - Moderator... 60g+ of filament 99walls.

I'm gonna test V2 then I want to make this if successful and see if I can get the fluid dynamics down...View attachment 973040

Who’s Chironis what about their arrows?

 

[Living_Shinigami]

Who’s Chironis what about their arrows?

Nice Latin!

"The Needle Sharp Arrow of the Master" I think is the translation...

Acus - Sharpness of Perception, Acuity.
Sagittas - The Arrow, from Sagittarius.
Chironis - The Master of the Bow, Centaur of Sagittarius.

If I've got any of that wrong, please someone, let me know...

 

[PartTimeLegend]

Nice Latin!

"The Needle Sharp Arrow of the Master" I think is the translation...

Acus - Sharpness of Perception, Acuity.
Sagittas - The Arrow, from Sagittarius.
Chironis - The Master of the Bow, Centaur of Sagittarius.

If I've got any of that wrong, please someone, let me know...

It’s been a long time. I also read Acus as Agus.

I don’t know how a hybrid air stripper and moderator would work. My air stripper vents air quickly, whilst this looks like it might trap it. Could cause it to destabilise the pellet rather than try to stabilise it.

Are you doing it 1/2” UNF? If you’re willing to share the files I can print one and test it out.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

I've got 1/2" UNF inserts I'm using, the GunTuff ones from JSRamsbottom.

I'm printing it myself to test, I've taken the stripper I've made so far and I'm putting a channeling chamber that takes the stripped air and vents it down a sleeve to exhausts at the end. Due to the laminal flow I've established in the stripper, it should allow the air to take its time and quiet down the bark... I'm working on making it modular at the minute.

 

[qyuubi786]

Interesting Asymmetry going on there! I like it.

I've been iterating and I've got my V2 printed with optimised Lamina flow.

Then today I got bored and decided to use that stripping core and build a plenum with a shell to reduce report and turn it into a hybrid Stripper - Moderator... 60g+ of filament 99walls.

I'm gonna test V2 then I want to make this if successful and see if I can get the fluid dynamics down...View attachment 973040

Very nice. Is the "reverse" rifling vent holes?
It's for this little guy.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

The rifling is "flair". The chamber directs the air to the Plenum and then the 16 vents at the top for slow exhaustion.

Do you want stripping or Silencing? The stripper I've made is 60mm long and 28mm diameter (~38g). The "Acus Sagittas Chironis" is my attempt at the hybrid Stripper/mod which is around 38-40mm diameter and 80mm long (~60g).

 

[qyuubi786]

The rifling is "flair". The chamber directs the air to the Plenum and then the 16 vents at the top for slow exhaustion.

Do you want stripping or Silencing? The stripper I've made is 60mm long and 28mm diameter (~38g). The "Acus Sagittas Chironis" is my attempt at the hybrid Stripper/mod which is around 38-40mm diameter and 80mm long (~60g).

It may seem like I'm trying to be a salesman for resin printers! But it would look a lot better if it was printed in Abs like resin.

 

[Living_Shinigami]

It may seem like I'm trying to be a salesman for resin printers! But it would look a lot better if it was printed in Abs like resin.

I agree to a degree, ABS would look so clean. However, the flex and strength of PETG works better... I'm only doing FDM at the minute, but I do have some projects that would work perfectly on a resin printer.

 

[PartTimeLegend]

ASA > ABS however with no movement to it then the first clipped pellet could have disastrous consequences.

I have printed moderators in PLA, PETG, ABS, and ASA. I tend to stick to PLA for them as they flex easier.

I have just made an adjustable butthook for my HW97 which I settled on PETG with. Using ASA I find getting screws in was causing cracking as it would not flex. Also PETG doesn’t shrink like ABS/ASA.