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AA trigger blades in HW Rekord trigger unit

ricardolamos

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This is something I am contemplating as I understand it is doable and I like to be able to adjust 1st and 2nd stages.

AA pivot pin is 3mm whilst HW is 2mm so will either need to sleeve down the AA or drill out the Rekord trigger housing to 3mm.

Keen to hear from anyone who has carried out such a project and whether it made a significant difference.
 
I'm glad you posted this. I was going to put a Rekord trigger blade in my Remington express which has a 3mm hole.Now it looks like I'm going to fit a TX blade. You can get brass tube on Amazon 3mm od 2mm id to reduce your hole size.
 
This is something I am contemplating as I understand it is doable and I like to be able to adjust 1st and 2nd stages.

AA pivot pin is 3mm whilst HW is 2mm so will either need to sleeve down the AA or drill out the Rekord trigger housing to 3mm.

Keen to hear from anyone who has carried out such a project and whether it made a significant difference.
Craig-P is an advocate of this. As you say the pin is slightly differently sized, so will need attention.

Benefits are greater adjustability between 1st & 2nd stage with the adjustment screws on the CD blade
 
I'm glad you posted this. I was going to put a Rekord trigger blade in my Remington express which has a 3mm hole.Now it looks like I'm going to fit a TX blade. You can get brass tube on Amazon 3mm od 2mm id to reduce your hole size.
I have some of this brass tube on order to reduce the size of the AA pivot hole and have some 3mm shims to take up any slack.
 
This is something I am contemplating as I understand it is doable and I like to be able to adjust 1st and 2nd stages.

AA pivot pin is 3mm whilst HW is 2mm so will either need to sleeve down the AA or drill out the Rekord trigger housing to 3mm.

Keen to hear from anyone who has carried out such a project and whether it made a significant difference.

I have a feeling Tony Leech may have done this, but I seem to remember he replaced the lower outer sear with a square section one. If you don’t do this you’ll need to shim the blade so it’s centred and not running off centre on the sear. With the original blades and Rowan or Warren Edward’s’ ones it’s not an issue as they have rollers and not bearing faced grub screws.

You’ll need to check the position of the pivot point and where the points of engagement are too to ensure they are the same as a Rekord blade.
 
I have a feeling Tony Leech may have done this, but I seem to remember he replaced the lower outer sear with a square section one. If you don’t do this you’ll need to shim the blade so it’s centred and not running off centre on the sear. With the original blades and Rowan or Warren Edward’s’ ones it’s not an issue as they have rollers and not bearing faced grub screws.

You’ll need to check the position of the pivot point and where the points of engagement are too to ensure they are the same as a Rekord blade.

Hi Andy

Have you come across the blades made by Air Joe (Germany) ?
Unfortunately they do not ship to the UK but I have a plan to get hold of one.

Cheers

Richard
 

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If your using screws you should machine the contact face of the tongue guide flat to give the adjusting screws a good contact surface. I machined a Rowan style trigger system for my 99. The full story of the method used https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airgundesignandmodificationshed/hft-99s-t183.html
As long as the mods are happy with me posting the link..
Really interesting and makes absolute sense to flatten the contact surface for the two trigger screws.
Did you find the result worth the effort?
 
Hi Andy

Have you come across the blades made by Air Joe (Germany) ?
Unfortunately they do not ship to the UK but I have a plan to get hold of one.

Cheers

Richard

Only recently Rich, funny you should say that but I have a fellow sending me one and a Rekord this week, he got a friend in Germany to get it. I’d be interested in getting one too, perhaps we can sort something out. I’ll pm you some pictures when it arrives and let you know what I think.


I’ve also been chatting with a member this week about getting one similar to the V Mach copied. When I’ve altered pivot points, the most time consuming part is machining the trigger blade, so it’d be good to get some that are exactly the right size.

IMG_0198.webp
 
If your using screws you should machine the contact face of the tongue guide flat to give the adjusting screws a good contact surface. I machined a Rowan style trigger system for my 99. The full story of the method used https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airgundesignandmodificationshed/hft-99s-t183.html
As long as the mods are happy with me posting the link..

The only thing with that is you’ve now removed the case hardening and you need the proper facilities to add a hardening coat to the sear. The sears are very soft metal, hence why they’re case hardened from the factory. This is why I mentioned shimming the trigger blade to ensure it’s centred on the lower outer sear.

Tony Leech had his made from laser cut tool steel. There was also a guy on here who had TX200 sears made from laser cut tool steel a few years ago, I have a set in my TX and they’re very good.
 
Hi Andy
What a coincidence you are looking at the Air Joe HW triggers.
I am wondering how well the blades on their own would work without first flattening the contact point on the sear as Solar describes.Rehardening the sear doesn’t sound an easy job!
The replacement unit might therefore be a better bet but is quite an expensive item and I don’t know anyone who has tried one.
Will be very interested to hear your findings.
Cheers
Richard
 
Another question Andy.
Have you ever tried putting a weaker trigger weight spring into the Rekord unit?
My main gripe with the Rekord is that I can’t get the release weight anywhere near that of the CD unit.
 
The only thing with that is you’ve now removed the case hardening and you need the proper facilities to add a hardening coat to the sear. The sears are very soft metal, hence why they’re case hardened from the factory. This is why I mentioned shimming the trigger blade to ensure it’s centred on the lower outer sear.

Tony Leech had his made from laser cut tool steel. There was also a guy on here who had TX200 sears made from laser cut tool steel a few years ago, I have a set in my TX and they’re very good.
The guide is not case hardened, it is work hardened in the bending process. I have been doing this for 20yrs plus and have never seen excessive marks on the face of the tongue guide only light contact lines!.
 
Hi Andy
What a coincidence you are looking at the Air Joe HW triggers.
I am wondering how well the blades on their own would work without first flattening the contact point on the sear as Solar describes.Rehardening the sear doesn’t sound an easy job!
The replacement unit might therefore be a better bet but is quite an expensive item and I don’t know anyone who has tried one.
Will be very interested to hear your findings.
Cheers
Richard

Hi Richard,
I only got the details when the guy with the Rekord contacted me to have it tuned and additional parts fitted. I wouldn’t have known about it until you mentioned it.

Re-hardening really isn’t an option unless you have access to the correct facilities and equipment. They’d be fine as long as the trigger blade is centralised, if need be with the use of shims, I believe I managed to get some for the CD and Rekord trigger.

I’ve changed the pivot point on a few and altered the blades accordingly and they didn’t really require adjustable contact points, however the V Mach trigger units I’ve come across have been very good too, so it makes it a nice option. This makes the trigger a bit lighter, I’ve sourced my own sear tension springs, but they’re about the same spec as the originals.

Andy
 
The guide is not case hardened, it is work hardened in the bending process. I have been doing this for 20yrs plus and have never seen excessive marks on the face of the tongue guide only light contact lines!.

They’re case hardened after they’re shaped, the metal is low carbon content and that’s why Weihrauch apply the process, it’s well documented. The rear sears are now sintered metal.

The sear in question, is often damaged, normally when people have fired the unit out of the trigger block and the upper sear is able to fully rotate smashing the the lower outer sear into the trigger blade rollers creating a dent through the thin outer. I’ve also come across a fair few where people have ground the outer surface off and the soft underneath has worn.

In any case, why go to all the trouble of machining the face of it when all you have to do is make sure the trigger blade is central, using shims if need be, that’s all Steve Pope did with his upgraded trigger blades. Tony Leech replaced the lower outer sear with a laser cut tool steel one as another option.
 
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