Hw100 help

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Den

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Recently bought a .22 HW100 not sure what MK it is? After checking the Weihrauch data base it suggests it’s a 2007 to 2008 model.
Noticed a very slight leak I decided to unscrew the cylinder and when off I noticed the brass nipple attached the cyclinder.
The only video I saw on YouTube the brass nipple is screwed into the block and you need a 10mm socket to talk it out of the block?
Does this suggest a MK1?
Also on screwing the cyclinder back to the rifle it totally degassed and now empty?
Any suggestions welcome please.
 

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It looks like the brass inlet valve assembly which should have stayed put in the action block has unscrewed with the cylinder when you unscrewed the cylinder out of the action.

You should be able to unscrew the brass inlet valve from the end of the cylinder (this may require holding the cylinder in a vice with some leather/other soft material around it).

Once this is done, the brass inlet valve can be screwed back into the action block. There is a small o ring on the nipple of the brass inlet valve which commonly causes a leak, it vents through the front bleed hole on the underside of the action block. Take care when replacing the o ring not to damage the surface of the inlet valve.
 
Ascham said:
It looks like the brass inlet valve assembly which should have stayed put in the action block has unscrewed with the cylinder when you unscrewed the cylinder out of the action.

You should be able to unscrew the brass inlet valve from the end of the cylinder (this may require holding the cylinder in a vice with some leather/other soft material around it).

Once this is done, the brass inlet valve can be screwed back into the action block. There is a small o ring on the nipple of the brass inlet valve which commonly causes a leak, it vents through the front bleed hole on the underside of the action block. Take care when replacing the o ring not to damage the surface of the inlet valve.
Click to expand...
Just checked the brass nipple is perfectly screwed into the cyclinder and absolutely nowhere to screw into the gun block?
If you look at the photos you will see it’s perfectly screwed into the cylinder and nowhere else to screw into the gun block?
Could this be an earlier type of cylinder and assembly?
Appriecate any comments good or bad 😊 as trying to learn and no question is a daft question in my book.
 
Hi there den, may be worth getting a full o ring kit for the cylinder and an end's removal/de-gassing kit. (If they fit the older 100's) It'd be a good starting point mate. Let me know if you do and i can send you my old kit FoC. Just make a donation to the forum. 😀 atb mate. And you'll find no better place for advice. 👍 atb, jay
 
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Den said:
Just checked the brass nipple is perfectly screwed into the cyclinder and absolutely nowhere to screw into the gun block?
If you look at the photos you will see it’s perfectly screwed into the cylinder and nowhere else to screw into the gun block?
Could this be an earlier type of cylinder and assembly?
Appriecate any comments good or bad 😊 as trying to learn and no question is a daft question in my book.
Click to expand...
This is what the cylinder is currently screwed into it should stay in the block
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24752__25711 (1).webp
 
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photos of the cylinder off the rifle.

As you can clearly see the brass thread on the nipple is definitely screwed into the cylinder.
Nowhere for the brass nipple to screw into the gun block?
Yes as far as I’m aware it’s a quill fill.
 

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Den said:
photos of the cylinder off the rifle.

As you can clearly see the brass thread on the nipple is definitely screwed into the cylinder.
Nowhere for the brass nipple to screw into the gun block?
Yes as far as I’m aware it’s a quill fill.
Click to expand...
Have a look at these its the seperate piece that has come out the block.
 

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That’s looks about right 👍 the question is how do I get the the inner barrel detached from the cylinder and back into the gun block?
 
Phot with nipple out
 

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Den said:
Phot with nipple out
Click to expand...
See the bleed hole it you have a screw drive or allen key try twisting by putting it in there. Or vice grips with a rag or something to protect it and don't squeeze to hard and disform the tube. Don't do heat obviously since its tbe cylinder and pressurised.
 

dfmwilco said:
See the bleed hole it you have a screw drive or allen key try twisting by putting it in there. Or vice grips with a rag or something to protect it and don't squeeze to hard and disform the tube. Don't do heat obviously since it’s tbe cylinder and pressurised.
Click to expand...
Many thanks for all the info I need to order a few things like O ring do you think this rifle is a mk1 or mk2?
 
Den said:
Many thanks for all the info I need to order a few things like O ring do you think this rifle is a mk1 or mk2?
Click to expand...
I may be wrong but if it is threaded barrel not bonded it is mk2 also the year it seems to be from what you said and the cylinder date if original wouldn't be mk1. I am no hw100 expert though just stripped my own a few times and resealed them. Hw100tuning will have everything you need.
 
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dfmwilco said:
I may be wrong but if it is threaded barrel not bonded it is mk2 also the year it seems to be from what you said and the cylinder date if original wouldn't be mk1. I am no hw100 expert though just stripped my own a few times and resealed them. Hw100tuning will have everything you need.
Click to expand...
Appreciate everything that you have said many thanks for all the advice and info 🍺👍
 
jason72 said:
Hi there den, may be worth getting a full o ring kit for the cylinder and an end's removal/de-gassing kit. (If they fit the older 100's) It'd be a good starting point mate. Let me know if you do and i can send you my old kit FoC. Just make a donation to the forum. 😀 atb mate. And you'll find no better place for advice. 👍 atb, jay
Click to expand...
Thank you 👍
 
If the leak is coming from the front bleed vent on the underside of the action (a bit of spit on a finger, put over the vent hole is often enough to show whether a leak is present), it is often the case that replacing the outer o ring on the inlet valve is enough to fix the leak.

Other leaks can occur, however, and I ended buying a series of different o rings last year to fix a leak with my hw100. In retrospect, with the particular leak that my rifle had, it would have been cheaper and better to have ordered a complete seal kit rather than attempt to fix the leak by buying and changing o rings one at a time.

Having more or less completely stripped and reassembled my hw100 (including the regulator, cylinder end and hammer, etc), I admire the way the HW100 design enables owners to maintain them.
 
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Ascham said:
If the leak is coming from the front bleed vent on the underside of the action (a bit of spit on a finger, put over the vent hole is often enough to show whether a leak is present), it is often the case that replacing the outer o ring on the inlet valve is enough to fix the leak.

Other leaks can occur, however, and I ended buying a series of different o rings last year to fix a leak with my hw100. In retrospect, with the particular leak that my rifle had, it would have been cheaper and better to have ordered a complete seal kit rather than attempt to fix the leak by buying and changing o rings one at a time.

Having more or less completely stripped and reassembled my hw100 (including the regulator, cylinder end and hammer, etc), I admire the way the HW100 design enables owners to maintain them.
Click to expand...
It’s all a bit daunting to me TBH never been mechanically minded but do have a couple of friends that can sort it hopefully 🤞
Was just confused with the way the nipple was in the cylinder, but thanks to the forum questions were answered 👍
 
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