Done a deal with a mate and got myself a Original 35 super air rifle in .22, nice gun, decided to take the stock off to give the rest of the metal work a clean but found this contraption which looks like the anti bear trap mec, as it cant be de cocked which is a pain. The mec looks like a long plate which sits around the cocking lever attached are two compression spring attached to a shorted plate. Not sure how this goes back, any instructions or diagram how it goes. The other thing do i have to have it, can i just remove not fit it back on or will the gun not function properly without.
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the Daily hi thread
Original 35 super anti bear trap????????
- Thread starter topfmine
- Start date
Thanks, anyone else removed theirs.
Had a look at the Chambers spare parts page where they have an exploded diagram but it's not detailed enough, kind of blacked out in detail. What does the bear trap do? Does it stop you from de cocking the gun by releasing the trigger, only when the barrel is close or stop the gun being fired during the actual cocking. There's a stock screw on the bottom of the stock near the front where the two side stock screws are that seems to do nothing, not even screw into the main part of the cylinder section as the cocking lever is in the way, quite odd. Certainly more complex than the HW range.
So the bear trap is connected via springs so that as the cocking lever moves back it engages with a slot in the trigger so stopping it being depressed, as soon as the lever moves forward so that the barrel is closed it drags it forward so releasing the trigger. Hope these help
Attachments
Thanks there is a small washer very thin, does this go directly under the screw assembly between the single plate below the screw. The single square plate has up turned sides does this plate side sit upwards or downwards.
I can’t guarantee mines right as it’s been apart before I got it but the plate with the upturned sides can only really work when those sides face away from the gun cylinder and on mine the washer goes between the stock lug and that plate. You can see both when you zoom in on the picture of the gun lying on its back. Taking the anti bear trap device off completely will cause you know problems but you’ll obviously need to screw the stock lug back in. Hope that helps.
Tested fitted as per instructions works perfectly. Would like to check the piston washer but due to the lack of info as it needs a cramp and its a ball bearing type trigger unit i will give it a miss unless there is a video or simple instruction guide to follow.
So the trigger is a bit more complex than some, need to glue the ball bearings in with grease so they don’t drop out as you put it in, I also use three of the hard felt cleaning mops that are used with Dremel when I push it all back together as the trigger is set back into the cylinder slightly, did use a short section of broom stick but found the pads more stable. A sash cramp is a must. There is some useful stuff on here ref the strip down but one thing to remember is there’s a small locking bar/screw (not removed mine yet) that goes through the side of the piston and stops the washer being unscrewed. I’ll be drilling mine out today! will post pictures if that helps but to be honest wouldn’t be the first gun I’d take to bits there are much simpler ones to start with.
bflat7
Super member
Took the anti beartrap out of my "97 so I could decock it ,Nick at TBT reckoned it isn,t
a necessary item.
a necessary item.
junglie2022
Member Extraordinaire
Yes I tried mine without it works fine.
I’d suggest putting over a chronograph just to work out what you’re dealing with, but apart from that just basic maintenance like any other springer. Unlike other guns of the era I don’t know of any design or manufacturing flaws in these so tend to just keep going and as you say are generally really nice to shoot and accurate with it.
junglie2022
Member Extraordinaire
Superdomes, superfeilds, h&n ftt's, & jsb stratons all go well though my mod 35 ( in .22)
junglie2022
Member Extraordinaire
If it's not too twangy on firing you can use blunt syringe to inject a little hempseed oil though the transfer port when it's cocked, then decock it. (if you've removed the anti bear trap) Work the barrel up & down without cocking a few times to get the oil coating the old leather washer then store it upright overnight for at least a day to let the oil soak in & swell the old washer before firing it to avoid dieselling. Can gain half a ft/lb or more. Most folk use neatsfoot oil, but that's my preference . You only need half a ml , too much will cause dieseling. Tesco's sell it & it's nice as a salad dressing too....lol. Tbh it's a shortcut, but a good way of telling if the old seal has dried out & has a harsh firing cycle if it works .
Backgardenplinker
Member Extraordinaire
Never would've thought the 35S had a bear trap. No such thing on the standard 35.
MDriskill
Super member
That's correct, the anti-beartrap is a spring-loaded gadget that slides rearward and blocks the trigger whenever the barrel is broken to the open position. The old Walther LG 53, LG 55, and LGV target rifles have a very similar design.
The 35S also changed to a two-piece cocking linkage, where the standard 35 is a single piece. The odd screw on the bottom supports a little nylon bearing that the inner link bears on, a nice touch that keeps things quiet while cocking.
The S models were not too successful in the market - they are relatively rare, and the standard versions out-lived them! There was a model 27S that has all the same details, which is one of my favorite rifles - compare to a standard 27 of the day: